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Oxidisation from auto syphon


James Lao

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Can't say I've ever noticed oxidation in my no chill beers. Didn't notice it in kit or extract beers either except in some 6 year old bottles I found one day a year or so ago. I don't leave much air in them though, whatever is in there I squeeze out as much as possible, and have been tilting the cube more recently since I've found a way to do it without spilling it everywhere. 

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On 12/9/2018 at 4:36 AM, Otto Von Blotto said:

I think you'll just have to wait and see. 

A better method which I'll be using when I get a couple of things for it is transferring into a sealed keg full of CO2 via the beer out post. Need a length of beer line and a bottling wand with the end cut off, and another liquid disconnect. It won't be 100% oxygen free (headspace in the fermenter) but it'll be better than my current hose into the bottom of an open keg, which gets bubbles in it as well. While I'm yet to have any oxidation issues from it, I'd rather eliminate it all the same.

Do this but make sure there isn’t any pressure in the keg unless you want to stir up your trub. And when you’re transferring you have to release the pressure in the keg every couple of minutes. This process is 100% easier with a fermzilla or the likes cause than you can have pressure in the keg. Easier again if you have a spunding valve on the keg. 

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On 12/8/2018 at 3:49 AM, James Lao said:

Hi all,

Just kegged a brew and was using an auto syphon for the first time to transfer to keg  but was getting air bubbles in the line and had to pump the syphon.

Result was a bit of foam in the keg.

After about 6 litres, stopped using the auto syphon and picked the FV up and used my normal method of transferring from the tap to the keg.

Reason for using auto syphon was to see if I could transfer without picking up the FV and putting it on the bench first.

Dont think I will use the syphon again and now am concerned about the splashing / air bubbles being sucked in through the syphon causing oxidisation.

Anyone had oxidized beer in a keg from a bad transfer method?

If so how long does it take?

Beer was about 3degC and has gone into cold keg and being force carbed..

Cheers

James

I have used an auto siphon for years, when bottling. I recently switched to kegs. The second time I transferred to the keg (the keg was closed and I had the auto siphon hose attached to the beer out post) I noticed bubbles in the tubing. Once I noticed I stopped the flow and re-primed it with more pumping to get rid of the bubbles, which of course resulted in air being blown into the beer already in the keg. I worried about that causing oxidation. I am not sure if I can taste it. It does taste different than the few bottles I filled after getting rid of the bubbles. Anyway, now I transfer with the keg open and  dangle the auto siphon hose to the bottom of the keg. If I see bubbles in the hose I can lift the end of the hose out of the beer when I pump the bubbles out. Also, I read that it is a good idea to pour a small amount of cooled water from the kettle into the top of the siphon. If anything leaks past the rubber seal, it will be water and not air. 

Cheers,

Christina.

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That was the first and only time for me using the auto syphon!

After my hiatus, I am back using the the bottling wand connected  with some food grade hose to the bottom of the keg.

FV is on the bench, keg is on the floor , letting gravity do its thing !

Suppose it depends on the type of FV you are using though..

Cheers

James

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14 hours ago, Cosmo2450 said:

Do this but make sure there isn’t any pressure in the keg unless you want to stir up your trub. And when you’re transferring you have to release the pressure in the keg every couple of minutes. This process is 100% easier with a fermzilla or the likes cause than you can have pressure in the keg. Easier again if you have a spunding valve on the keg. 

Yes, didn't note that but the keg needs to be depressurised and pressure bled as it fills. I don't have a spunding valve but I could always put a gas disconnect on the in post without anything connected to it, would do the same thing. I have a spare one. 

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15 minutes ago, Otto Von Blotto said:

Yes, didn't note that but the keg needs to be depressurised and pressure bled as it fills. I don't have a spunding valve but I could always put a gas disconnect on the in post without anything connected to it, would do the same thing. I have a spare one. 

A spunding valve is only necessary when you’re using pressure to transfer. I set the valve to whatever pressure I’ve fermented at and then connect the gas bottle to the fermenter and add another 5psi on top of that to get positive pressure. 

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On 11/29/2019 at 8:42 PM, Worthog said:

After (virtually) observing Kelsey's swimming  pool cube temperature reduction, post whirlpool, I have just filled a 200 litre plastic (wine) barrel to attempt a similar outcome, which I will chuck my 20L cube into to accelerate temperature reduction, to the extent I can place it in my 18c fermentation fridge prior to next day FV ferment. All in hope of reducing oxidation.

Cheers

 

On 12/1/2019 at 1:16 PM, Shamus O'Sean said:

How did the cooling effort go?

Sorry I had this in the wrong thread.

@Shamus O'Sean, the cooling went well. I took my cube from around 78c to 20c in 3.5hours, which then allowed me to put it in the 18c fermenting fridge. I'll run the cube into the FV for fermentation tomorrow. 

It will be interesting to taste this brew when ready, because previously all my AG beers have been no-chill.

Cheers 

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1 hour ago, MitchellScott said:

Could you not just pull the PRV, twist it so it stays open and then fill?

Probably, but since I have a spare gas disconnect it's probably just as easy to put that on the gas in post. Without the push in fitting connected to it the gas will just go straight through it.

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