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How much yeast to add to my extract homebrew?


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5 hours ago, Oldbloke said:

This has me beat. 🤔

Once you put the yeast in the beer, ,it gets active  then multiplies. Sooo, why add extra? Wouldn't it just need a tad more time?

I have no background in any of this but in How to Brew John Palmer says that if you pitch too little yeast they will produce certain off flavours and if you pitch too must yeast they will produce different off flavours.

I don't have much experience either but my second ended up with a considerably lower ABV than the recipe projected, it was also cloudy, a bit sweet, and under carbonated. It seems that one 7g packet of yeast was insufficient to ferment all the sugars in the wort. They can only multiply a certain amount, it seems.

Edited by Kegory
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13 hours ago, Kegory said:

I have no background in any of this but in How to Brew John Palmer says that if you pitch too little yeast they will produce certain off flavours and if you pitch too must yeast they will produce different off flavours.

I don't have much experience either but my second ended up with a considerably lower ABV than the recipe projected, it was also cloudy, a bit sweet, and under carbonated. It seems that one 7g packet of yeast was insufficient to ferment all the sugars in the wort. They can only multiply a certain amount, it seems.

I have used 2 packets of Coopers kit yeasts quite a few times & never had any off flavours of any kind, in retrospect using an 11.5gm pack on Nottingham or US-05 etc. is the about same quantity as 2 x 6-7gm packs.

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2 hours ago, Oldbloke said:

It must be a major production line. They would need heaps just for their beers. Then add all the HB here and overseas.

A variety of yeasts, too.

Maybe we could persuade one of our Adelaidians to pay a visit, ask some questions, take some photos.

Edited by Kegory
Saturday night, reason enough.
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12 hours ago, Kegory said:

A variety of yeasts, too.

Maybe we could persuade one of our Adelaidians to pay a visit, ask some questions, take some photos.

I doubt if they would pass on too much information on their yeasts. I don't know whether the Brewery Tours have re-commenced since Covid-19 but there should be something on the website.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 6/18/2023 at 7:53 PM, Kegory said:

After all the yeast management discussion this week I made an impromptu decision that I should hydrate my yeast before pitching.

IMG_20230618_190008058.thumb.jpg.65998bc593fd09fdfb0be4ff97ed5fb8.jpg

I ended up pitching it at a few points lower temperature than I would have otherwise. I was concerned that as my wort was warming my hydrated yeast was cooling and I wanted to keep the temperature difference as close to 3 degrees as I could manage.

I've done some more research on hydrating the yeast before pitching and, specifically reading the manufacturer's instructions for hydrating the yeast.

As a result I've gone back to sprinkling the dry yeast on top of the wort for the last two brews. I'm now thinking hydration is a horses for courses technique, not a one size fits all.

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On 6/23/2023 at 6:56 PM, Back Brewing said:

Here is part 1 & 2 this guy knows his brewing and watching his channel got me back into brewing

6 weeks conditioning plus another 3 weeks in the fridge after 2 weeks in the fermenter. That's patience.

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So I'm still running down that rabbit hole that's yeast pitching rates. I'm trying to limit myself to dry yeast pitching rates and easy calculations, i.e. rules of thumb. There are pitching rate calculators but I don't want to get into weighing out dry yeast to pitch at this point in the journey, I just want to work on a packet basis.

According to Kegerator dot com, Fermentis recommends 0.5 to 0.8 grams per litre. This appears to be for an average gravity ale. So, 1 x 11.5g packet is within the recommended range for a 23 litre batch. 

And here's a phrase that's pleasing to my heart, according to Craft Beer and Brewing, a good rule of thumb is to pitch twice as much yeast for a lager as for an ale.

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On 7/25/2023 at 4:28 PM, Kegory said:

I've done some more research on hydrating the yeast before pitching and, specifically reading the manufacturer's instructions for hydrating the yeast.

As a result I've gone back to sprinkling the dry yeast on top of the wort for the last two brews. I'm now thinking hydration is a horses for courses technique, not a one size fits all.

TBH, I have never noticed any real difference in hydrating yeast or saving yeast in both Extract & AG brews.

I much prefer to use nice fresh yeast, less mucking about, less work & you eliminate most chances of infection.

I am not saying it doesn't work but I simply couldn't be bothered, some say you save money, but I would rather have peace of mind so that there is less chance of anything going wrong.

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On 7/25/2023 at 4:28 PM, Kegory said:

I've done some more research on hydrating the yeast before pitching and, specifically reading the manufacturer's instructions for hydrating the yeast.

As a result I've gone back to sprinkling the dry yeast on top of the wort for the last two brews. I'm now thinking hydration is a horses for courses technique, not a one size fits all.

Weelll, when you put the dry yeast in the wort wouldn't it rehydrate in 1 or 2 hours?

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On 6/19/2023 at 5:00 AM, Brauhaus Fritz said:

As my can of ESB Old didn't come with temperature recommendations I checked the Lallemand Homepage for some info about their Nottingham Ale yeast and decided to dry pitch at 19 degrees, after reading it again now might raise the temperature to 20 degrees as the temperature controller always only clicks on when the temperature drops by 1 degree under target temperature. (P.S. both Lallemand and Fermentis have a free app)

yeast.JPG.65e3b664a2a12f6859ccd5344ba69efe.JPG

TDS_LPS_BREWINGYEAST_NOTTINGHAM_ENG_8.5x11.pdf 1.04 MB · 3 downloads

As I stated before, I followed the advice from Lallemand and dry pitch. you guys can download their app (and Fermentis as well, both are free, or study they homepages. It is extremely informative and very interresting

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49 minutes ago, Oldbloke said:

Weelll, when you put the dry yeast in the wort wouldn't it rehydrate in 1 or 2 hours?

That depends on how much sugars are in the wort. In a high gravity wort the water is "locked up" hydrating the sugars.

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21 minutes ago, Brauhaus Fritz said:

As I stated before, I followed the advice from Lallemand and dry pitch. you guys can download their app (and Fermentis as well, both are free, or study they homepages. It is extremely informative and very interresting

I was reading the Lallemands instructions for the Diamond yeast before starting my current brew. They said to sprinkle the yeast while transferring the wort into the fermenter.

There were two reasons I decided not to follow their instructions and, instead, sprinkled the yeast on top afterwards. The first reason is that I was using a FWK and the risk of making a big mess attempting to sprinkle two packets of dried yeast whilst managing the pour from the FWK was too great. The second reason was because I wanted to take a gravity reading before pitching the yeast.

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8 minutes ago, Kegory said:

I was reading the Lallemands instructions for the Diamond yeast before starting my current brew. They said to sprinkle the yeast while transferring the wort into the fermenter.

There were two reasons I decided not to follow their instructions and, instead, sprinkled the yeast on top afterwards. The first reason is that I was using a FWK and the risk of making a big mess attempting to sprinkle two packets of dried yeast whilst managing the pour from the FWK was too great. The second reason was because I wanted to take a gravity reading before pitching the yeast.

When I do a FWK I place the box on the kitchen bench, put a milk crate on a floor trolley & it's easy, the only lifting is the last bit.

Then it gets wheeled over to the fridge & set-up.

20230630_112354.thumb.jpg.ab32f84005e972667487da2be2d1fd5a.jpg

 

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On 6/16/2023 at 10:08 PM, Vincent said:

Remember the goop that falls to the bottom of your fermenter is the stuff they use to make Vegemite, so you need to drain it off the bottom of your fermenter at day 4 then every 7 days thereafter to get properly good tasting beer.

Seems a bit extreme to me.

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7 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Nah, why bother, too much stuffing around, I have never done that & my beer tastes fine.

Also the risk of oxidising your beer, faffing around like that with it. Never heard of home brewers doing that.

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1 hour ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

When I do a FWK I place the box on the kitchen bench, put a milk crate on a floor trolley & it's easy, the only lifting is the last bit.

Then it gets wheeled over to the fridge & set-up.

20230630_112354.thumb.jpg.ab32f84005e972667487da2be2d1fd5a.jpg

 

The Kegland FWK didn't have a nifty punch out like that one and the nozzle wasn't centred, it was almost in the corner. I had to remove the bladder from the cardboard packaging to be able to pour it.

Did you sprinkle your yeast while the wort was being transferred to the fermenter?

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20 minutes ago, Kegory said:

The Kegland FWK didn't have a nifty punch out like that one and the nozzle wasn't centred, it was almost in the corner. I had to remove the bladder from the cardboard packaging to be able to pour it.

Did you sprinkle your yeast while the wort was being transferred to the fermenter?

Nah, I take a reading & pitch a afterwards like I have always done.

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