Reviews wanted for Coopers Draught extract

[jennyss]

Brew No. 11 is going to be my husband's pick. He is keen to try a Coopers Draught, which is what my sister and her partner make. The Coopers  site says draught is a  "Light yellow-gold colour with a tightly packed white head, floral nose with a hint of malt, medium bodied palate with delicate hopping and a slightly bitter finish. The most discerning draught drinker will appreciate this beer." 

But can anybody tell me what it tastes like compared to the Australian Pale Ale extract and  other extracts? 

[Greenyinthewestofsydney]

On 10/1/2022 at 4:15 PM, jennyss said:

Brew No. 11 is going to be my husband's pick. He is keen to try a Coopers Draught, which is what my sister and her partner make. The Coopers  site says draught is a  "Light yellow-gold colour with a tightly packed white head, floral nose with a hint of malt, medium bodied palate with delicate hopping and a slightly bitter finish. The most discerning draught drinker will appreciate this beer." 

But can anybody tell me what it tastes like compared to the Australian Pale Ale extract and  other extracts? 

In my early kit days I used to make can of Coopers draught. Can of wheat malt. A steep of cascade for 10 mins of about 30gm from memory and US05 yeast. Came out a little like sierra Nevada pale ale. 

Compared to Australian pale ale it is a little more bitter and a little darker with more crystal malt.

Hope that helps

[Classic Brewing Co]

1 hour ago, Greenyinthewestofsydney said:

In my early kit days I used to make can of Coopers draught. Can of wheat malt. A steep of cascade for 10 mins of about 30gm from memory and US05 yeast. Came out a little like sierra Nevada pale ale. 

Compared to Australian pale ale it is a little more bitter and a little darker with more crystal malt.

Hope that helps

I always found the original Coopers Draught a good old standby, as you say with the right additions you can tweak it to something great.

[jennyss]

Thanks for all your comments about Coopers Draught, including good suggestions for additions. The Coopers Draught is in the FV as of yesterday afternoon.  No additions this time; just the can of extract and the BE no. 2.  We started it at 20deg, and will take it up to 22 deg in a couple of days - read this recommendation on an old post on this site. I guess it's mainly the different yeast, or perhaps the extract or  BE 2 ingredients; but big thick lumps appeared in the brew, then disappeared after about 4 hours - I've never seen this before.

[Malter White]

18 minutes ago, jennyss said:

I guess it's mainly the different yeast, or perhaps the extract or  BE 2 ingredients; but big thick lumps appeared in the brew, then disappeared after about 4 hours - I've never seen this before.

One of the Coopers DIY videos describes this phenomenon as "cold break". It's quite normal and nothing to worry about. I don't know why it actually occurs though.

[jennyss]

1 minute ago, Malter White said:

"cold break".

Yes, I've seen that video too, and seen much smaller lumps in my brew; but these were tennis ball size, and they just disappeared!

[Classic Brewing Co]

20 minutes ago, jennyss said:

Thanks for all your comments about Coopers Draught, including good suggestions for additions. The Coopers Draught is in the FV as of yesterday afternoon.  No additions this time; just the can of extract and the BE no. 2.  We started it at 20deg, and will take it up to 22 deg in a couple of days - read this recommendation on an old post on this site. I guess it's mainly the different yeast, or perhaps the extract or  BE 2 ingredients; but big thick lumps appeared in the brew, then disappeared after about 4 hours - I've never seen this before.

Well Jenny, I put together a Draught myself on Monday & it is in the fermenting fridge at 20c ATM. I use the supplied yeast as the Coopers yeasts are reliable & do the job adequately.

I do of course different yeasts at times. There has been a bit of action in the FV & the airlock is bubbling away.

My recipe was 1.7kg can extract, BE2, 500gms LDM, supplied yeast, 1 x tsp Yeast Nutrient. I will add 50gms of hops in a few days.  SG 1.044.

All the best with your Draught, it is a nice brew.

 

 

[Oldbloke]

I always say new brewers should do, in no particular order one each of the following.

1. Coopers Lager

2. Coopers Draught

3. Coopers Real Ale

All with BE 3. But BE 2 is ok.

 

All typical beers and your bound to like one of them.

After doing a few of your prefered,  start trying a few others.

Edited October 12, 2022 by oldbloke

[jennyss]

4 hours ago, Malter White said:

"cold break".

Me again @Malter White. I looked up 'cold break' on the internet and got a lot of confusing information. Then I searched on Coopers DIY and found in their FAQ section: 

"5. Once the brew is mixed I notice material floating and settling to the bottom of the FV, is this a problem?

Don’t worry, this is known as “cold break” and it’s perfectly normal. In fact, it is a good thing! Normally, Cold Break forms in the brewery when the wort is cooled. However, our beer kits and malt extracts are not allowed to cool prior to being concentrated to about 80% solids. Once at this density, the cold break cannot precipitate out of solution. Cold Break can only precipitate out once the beer kit and or malt extract is reconstituted (diluted with water)."

I thought that was very interesting about the extracts not cooling before being concentrated.

[Malter White]

7 minutes ago, jennyss said:

Me again @Malter White. I looked up 'cold break' on the internet and got a lot of confusing information. Then I searched on Coopers DIY and found in their FAQ section: 

"5. Once the brew is mixed I notice material floating and settling to the bottom of the FV, is this a problem?

Don’t worry, this is known as “cold break” and it’s perfectly normal. In fact, it is a good thing! Normally, Cold Break forms in the brewery when the wort is cooled. However, our beer kits and malt extracts are not allowed to cool prior to being concentrated to about 80% solids. Once at this density, the cold break cannot precipitate out of solution. Cold Break can only precipitate out once the beer kit and or malt extract is reconstituted (diluted with water)."

I thought that was very interesting about the extracts not cooling before being concentrated.

We never stop learning, Jenny. Today you've learned what cold break is and I've learned that you've fallen further down the rabbit hole of home brewing. Haha. 

[Oldbloke]

"I thought that was very interesting about the extracts not cooling before being concentrated"

 

Normal.  Anything that is canned or preserved, such as jam is sealed in its "container"  hot.  As it cools in the can or jar it creates a "low pressure area" and the air and food is sealed sterile.

[Stickers]

@jennyss hope this helps

Lager can EBC (colour) 75 IBU (bitterness) 390
Draught can EBC 130 IBU 420
Pale Ale can EBC 90 IBU 340
Real Ale can EBC 230 IBU 560
Dark Ale can EBC 650 IBU 590

[Shamus O'Sean]

1 hour ago, Stickers said:

@jennyss hope this helps

Lager can EBC (colour) 75 IBU (bitterness) 390
Draught can EBC 130 IBU 420
Pale Ale can EBC 90 IBU 340
Real Ale can EBC 230 IBU 560
Dark Ale can EBC 650 IBU 590

Remember those values are per kilogram of concentrate, before diluting.  They are not what your finished beer will be.  For example, if Dark Ale had an EBC of 650 as the finished product, it would be blacker than black under a black blanket.  And an IBU of 590 would be the Carolina Reaper of bitterness.

To get the actual values, firstly multiply by 1.7, because there is 1.7kg of concentrate in the can.  Then divide by the finished volume in your fermenter.  So a 23 litre brew of Dark Ale would be 650 x 1.7/23 = 48 EBC and 590 x 1.7/23 = 44 IBU.

[Oldbloke]

18 hours ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

Remember those values are per kilogram of concentrate, before diluting.  They are not what your finished beer will be.  For example, if Dark Ale had an EBC of 650 as the finished product, it would be blacker than black under a black blanket.  And an IBU of 590 would be the Carolina Reaper of bitterness.

To get the actual values, firstly multiply by 1.7, because there is 1.7kg of concentrate in the can.  Then divide by the finished volume in your fermenter.  So a 23 litre brew of Dark Ale would be 650 x 1.7/23 = 48 EBC and 590 x 1.7/23 = 44 IBU.

Seems someone knows what they are talking about.

Personally I just brew, then drink. Lol

[DavidM]

25 minutes ago, oldbloke said:

Personally I just brew, then drink. Lol

then Repeat..

[Korbo]

Currently drinking the OS draught ATM, no added hops or specialty yeast, just 500g extra malt and 500g of dex. It's as good as you can hope for.  Much better than the Woolies draught.

Edited October 16, 2022 by Korbo

[Malter White]

1 hour ago, Korbo said:

Currently drinking the OS draught ATM, no added hops or specialty yeast, just 500g extra malt and 500g of dex. It's as good as you can hope for.  Much better than the Woolies draught.

I've experimented with the Woolies tins in recent months. They aren't much good unless you pimp them with hops and/or other additives in my opinion.

[Oldbloke]

On 10/16/2022 at 5:29 PM, Korbo said:

Currently drinking the OS draught ATM, no added hops or specialty yeast, just 500g extra malt and 500g of dex. It's as good as you can hope for.  Much better than the Woolies draught.

That's what I would expect.