porschemad911 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 I bottled up my Old Ale tonight and put down my take on Lusty's Mosaic Amber ale. I'm reusing my WLP006 yeast for the last time with this batch and it feels a bit like saying goodbye to an old friend. Actually the colour of the Old Ale came out very nice, about the same as the 2014 Coopers ESVA ... Pre-bottling gravity sample tasted very nice too (I made sure to fill the hydrometer that little bit more full than usual). With at least 6 months of bottle age I think this will be very tasty! Interesting that I got a hint of banana rather than the usual apricot I have come to expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Am currently drinking my hop altered Chubby Cherub recipe from the keg. Yum! Maybe due to a few recent experimental brews I've missed this level of hop influence, but still....Yum! I didn't dry hop it with any great quantity in an effort to separate aroma from flavour by using more hops @ flameout as opposed to dry hopping larger quantities. I'm sure there are arguments on both sides of the fence on this one, but I admit I now am convinced I prefer more hop influence from boil & just-finished post boil introduced hops than I do dry hopping, though I accept good levels of aroma can be achieved from dry hopping certain varieties & at heightened levels. What I am really enjoying about this beer to drink is it has a really cool resiny character/taste. For those that understand this in a really good American Pale Ale, you'll know what I mean. In my brew, that primarily comes from the Pride of Ringwood 35min addition to create the primary bitterness. The other hops used produce the other flavours on top of that, & they work well. Resin is good in certain styles, & PoR doesn't get much airtime in craft brewing circles because it is so heavily used in commercial brewing here in Australia. It's a great hop, & more versatile than most homebrewers/craft brewers suggest with their comments from time to time would have you believe. My glass is empty, time for another pour. Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porschemad911 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 dry hop Thanks Lusty, you have just reminded me to remember to dry hop your Amber ale next week. I nearly forgot about that! Reflecting on the result which is obviously very tasty, what are your thoughts on a hop tea vs (or combined with) late boil hops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Reflecting on the result which is obviously very tasty' date=' what are your thoughts on a hop tea vs (or combined with) late boil hops?[/quote']Because I do smallish volume boils, I found in some of my hoppier beers I was beginning to question their impact & I was also losing a noticeable amount of wort to hop absorption, that I feel becomes quite relevant given I am topping up with water as part of my extract/partial process. In the smaller volume boil wort the saturation (for a better word) of hops to wort seemed excessive & possibly detrimental to producing a better quality beer. Using the hop tea away from the main wort boil for my flameout additions brings these saturation levels back down to a better level, & reduces the amount of wort lost to absorption. If I was doing larger full volume boils, I wouldn't bother with the practice, but given my 7 odd litre boils, I've found this adjustment very helpful given my circumstances. It's interesting how you can come full circle sometimes. Cheers & good brewing, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brownsworthy Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Last night I put this down. Dark Red IPA 1.5kg Coopers Light Malt 1.5kg Morgans Caramalt 1.25kg LDM 500g CaraAroma 50g Carafa 3 20g Magnum @ 60 min 15g Simcoe @ 15 min 15g Mosaic @ 15 min 15g Centennial @ 15 min 15g Simcoe @ 5 min 15g Mosaic @ 5 min 15g Centennial @ 5 min 1056 American Ale Yeast Will dry hop with 30g Simcoe, 30g Mosaic, and 30g Centennial. IBU - 71.3, EBC - 50.4, OG - 1.071, FG - 1.019 I don't really know if I'll get anything like a red IPA just throwing stuff together to see what happens. I have become a fan of Six Strings Dark Red IPA and have been inspired to experiment. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Reflecting on the result which is obviously very tasty' date=' what are your thoughts on a hop tea vs (or combined with) late boil hops?[/quote']Because I do smallish volume boils, I found in some of my hoppier beers I was beginning to question their impact & I was also losing a noticeable amount of wort to hop absorption, that I feel becomes quite relevant given I am topping up with water as part of my extract/partial process. In the smaller volume boil wort the saturation (for a better word) of hops to wort seemed excessive & possibly detrimental to producing a better quality beer. Using the hop tea away from the main wort boil for my flameout additions brings these saturation levels back down to a better level, & reduces the amount of wort lost to absorption. If I was doing larger full volume boils, I wouldn't bother with the practice, but given my 7 odd litre boils, I've found this adjustment very helpful given my circumstances. It's interesting how you can come full circle sometimes. Cheers & good brewing, Lusty. I sometimes do hop teas even through I do full boils. I no-chill but don't cube hop so it is sometimes difficult to get the really late hopping happening. So I ocassionally make a hop tea and add it to the FV. The last time I did it, I added it a few days into fermentation. It all seemed to work OK. I might give cube hopping a go for my next hoppy beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Hi Hairy. I sometimes do hop teas even through I do full boils. I no-chill but don't cube hop so it is sometimes difficult to get the really late hopping happening. Awww' date=' da poor, poor no-chiller! [img']crying[/img] Lazy @$$ wort stockpilers! So I ocassionally make a hop tea and add it to the FV. The last time I did it' date=' I added it a few days into fermentation. It all seemed to work OK. I might give cube hopping a go for my next hoppy beer.[/quote'] I remember you mentioning this on a few previous occasions, & can understand how it would work well. Good luck with the cube hopping! Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Hey! It's convenient to no chill. Haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Hi Kelsey. Hey! It's convenient to no chill. Haha You too are included in that "wort stockpiler" group! The no-chill motto: "Awww... I've had enough for one day' date=' let's put it in a cube & ferment it later." [img']tongue[/img] A tour of a no-chill brewery: "...and that's it for today. Come back tomorrow & we'll show you how to begin fermenting it!" Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Hi Brownsworthy. Very interesting recipe. Last night I put this down. Dark Red IPA 1.5kg Coopers Light Malt 1.5kg Morgans Caramalt 1.25kg LDM 500g CaraAroma 50g Carafa 3 20g Magnum @ 60 min 15g Simcoe @ 15 min 15g Mosaic @ 15 min 15g Centennial @ 15 min 15g Simcoe @ 5 min 15g Mosaic @ 5 min 15g Centennial @ 5 min 1056 American Ale Yeast Will dry hop with 30g Simcoe' date=' 30g Mosaic, and 30g Centennial. IBU - 71.3, EBC - 50.4, OG - 1.071, FG - 1.019 I don't really know if I'll get anything like a red IPA just throwing stuff together to see what happens. I have become a fan of Six Strings Dark Red IPA and have been inspired to experiment.[/quote'] My only concern is it may end up a little sweet with all that CaraAroma & the Morgans Caramalt. That said, it is a big beer with a healthy hop schedule, so the balance might end up better than I'm guessing. I'll look forward to your tasting notes on this one down the track. Good luck with the brew. Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brownsworthy Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 G'day Lusty, Yeah I would've liked 2 cans of light but they were the only ones I had and didn't want to go down to the LHBS. My first time using Mosaic too and pretty much made a last minute choice at the LHBS because I kept thinking about your Mosaic Amber and others you'd raved about with Mosaic so I thought I'd give it a go. Probably not the best way to get a taste for the hop but I am a little impulsive at times. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porschemad911 Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 The no-chill motto: "Awww... I've had enough for one day' date=' let's put it in a cube & ferment it later." [img']tongue[/img] Got up to feed the cat and saw this outrageous statement! Hahaha! It is nice and easy at the end of the boil. Pour the sanitizer out from the cube, get the siphon going and watch the cube fill with sweet nectar. Because my wife is out for night classes I brew Wednesday evenings after work, after cooking dinner. No-chill makes it possible for me to brew from grain, do a 90 minute mash and boil if necessary and be in bed at a reasonable hour for a Wednesday night. And it's much more sanitary than what some of you fast-chillers do! As an aside - I had a quick check last night to see what my yeasties have been up to and your Mosaic Amber is down to 1.020 with a fairly thick krausen still. So they are enjoying it ... and I enjoyed the sample, Mosaic is a really tasty hop! I've been keeping it at 17C and have now bumped it up to 18C. After a couple more days I'll go up to 20C to make sure it finishes low enough and cleans up. Last night I put this down. Good luck with your brew Brownsworthy, sounds like a great hop combo. Probably might end up a little too sweet as Lusty suggests, but see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Been awhile again. Some things going on in the brewery/man cave since last I showed up around here. Darn google galaxy download messed up my computer, so I'm on the wife's laptop for the time being, until my Windows 7 disc gets here from amazon to fix it. Can't work on my books or Beersmith 2 recipes till then, so I'm jonesin' a lil. Anyway, I've got an extinct East German Kottbusser bottled, along with an Irish red. A dry stout in the Cooper's Micro Brew FV that'll be secondaried on American white oak chips & 8 year old bourbon for 7 days real soon. I'm also going to brew my take on the old #1 Burton strong ale, later called barleywine. All my recipes the last year & a half have been PB/PM BIAB (Partial Boil, Partial Mash Brew In A Bag). It's been interesting looking for the ingredients to get the flavors it was said to have, as information available now is rather frustratingly vague. Got the Lyle's black treacle on amazon, but need some dark candi sugar as well as the grains & such. Gonna be my biggest yet. Then maybe try & use up some grains in my stash for a pale ale or something similar. And I use my 1L E-flask in the microwave with no ill effects to heat some 400ml of spring water to 90F or so to hydrate dry yeast in. No cracks or breakage that way...so far. I've been on a rare or extinct beer kick lately, particularly German. Then another go at the Burton's. You just never know where you'll wind up with researching beer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Sounds about right Lusty. "Oh, yes, and here's one I prepared earlier..." I don't stockpile much though, only have two cubes. I don't like to leave them sitting for ages before they ferment, however it is still more convenient to be able to brew when I like and ferment when I like, rather than having to schedule it all in to the same day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICzed Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Hey gang, I'm finally going to brew my White IPA / Hoppy Wheat Beer tonight as discussed in Ben's Belgian White IPA thread. I am not sure if it'll have the same level of bitterness as an IPA but I am going to experiment with Ben's method using hops at 60 minutes, flame out & dry hop to see how it turns out. Hoppy Wit 1.5kg Coopers Wheat LME 1kg Briess Pilsen DME 500g Wheat Spray Malt 250g Carapils 15g Dr Rudi @ 60 mins 60g Calypso @ 1 min / steep 30g Motueka @ 1 min / steep 30g Motueka dry hop Wyeast 1010 American Wheat 21lt brew Estimated OG: 10.51 I will let you all know how it turns out. Cheers + beers, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 G'day IcedTea Disclaimer: I've never used Calypso Have you used Calypso before, Mark? If you have and know what to expect, ignore this post. The general concensus around some of the traps is that for this hop, less is more, even when used as a flavour or aroma hop. Going from others' experiences, I'd use 25g as a starting point at most, particularly with all that mortueka to follow* Cheers mate *unless I was an FNQ gangland hitman in which case about a kilo would do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICzed Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Hey mate, I have used Calypso but only the once and I used 30g split between the boil & dry hop. It gave my beer a nice lemony aroma but not much else Obviously a big whack of it at flame out will be quite different but to be honest this bag has been sitting in my freezer for a year now and I want to get rid of it. If it can give me some nice lemon, orange & pepper notes I think it will suit the wheaty base. Cheers maaate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Interesting brew you have there Mark. Just out of curiosity, what technique are you using for the 1min addition steep? (i.e. how long for, how long before you begin cooling etc.) Because you're using Calypso hops from the freezer, does that mean you'll be drinking 'Cool Runnings'? Good luck with the brew. Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICzed Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Hey Lusty. Cool Runnings hehehe I like it. I will add the hops to the pot, boil for 1 minute, take it off the heat and let them steep for about 20 minutes before I add the wort to the FV :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peekaboo_jones Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 G'day brewers, Great sounding Wheat beer ICzed, I'd be keen to hear how it tastes. I've put a couple of brews down recently: Saison - 11L 1/2 can Coopers Pale Ale 600g dry Briess Bavarian wheat dry malt 150g Crystal Wheat 100g Carapils 10g Amarillo @ 10 mins 10g Chinook @ 10 mins Dry hop to come: 6g Chinook 3 days prior to bottling 6g Amarillo 3 days prior to bottling OG 1038 Danstar Belle Saison yeast rehydrated. Pitched at 20 deg C, raised by 1.5 every day until 26 deg C and held until day 7 then slowly dropped to 19 deg C subject to the follwing: Cascade Pale Ale - 11L 1/2 can Coopers Pale Ale 250g Briess Bavarian wheat dry malt 250g light dry malt 25g Crystal Wheat 155g CaraPils 10g Cascade @ 30 mins 10g Cascade @ 10 mins 15g Cascade @ 2 mins 5g Cascade dry hop to follow. OG 1040 Coopers pale ale yeast pitched at 19 deg C. Both vessels in the brew fridge, Saison will be bottled by the end of the week. I've been given a mates old fermenter, it was in pretty bad shape & i've got it soaking in Tricleanium Ultra Concentrated Cleaner. Followed by Oxyclean tomorrow. I was hoping to give bulk priming a go, by racking into this... but im a little cautios! Might be worth just buying a new 20 or 30L pail from Bunnings for racking/secondary fermenting. Or making a 300mL solution and gently adding to current vessel & gently stirring. Cheers & beers! Jonesy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 You're better off bulk priming in a secondary vessel. I can understand your reluctance with the one you've been given though. I like using a secondary vessel for two reasons. Firstly the beer is off the trub, so it doesn't get disturbed and mixed into the beer where I don't want it, while adding the priming sugar solution. Secondly and related to the first point, the constant tilting of the bottling bucket obviously doesn't cause the sediment to become stirred up either because it's left behind in the primary. A third point that applies to me but probably not many others on here at least, is that I use Polyclar to remove chill haze and it settles in the trub. I prefer to leave it there. It's done its job and doesn't need to be in my bottles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antiphile Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Otto has made a pretty big call in his opening sentence. I don't think you're any better off racking to a secondary for bulk priming. I've used the same technique for at least the last 60 batches (that has been minutely explained in several threads here) that only uses the primary vessel. There are no disadvantages in doing it this way (clarity or trub problems etc etc) and less risk of infection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 It may be a big call, but I stand by it. In the interests of not escalating crap... I think we'll just have to agree to disagree on it. Your method obviously works for you, mine works for me. I prefer transferring over doing it all in the primary. So I guess now Mr Jones here has both angles on it and can make up his own mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I use a bottling bucket with an Italian spigot regardless for bulk priming. My secondary is a 5/5 to 6 gallon Better Bottle, which would make priming & bottling difficult, but I digress. It was father's day here yesterday, so I barbecued brisket & drank home brew. Having some good, roasty coffee @ 9:06AM while I contemplate getting my dry stout into secondary on some American white oak chips that soaked i * year old bourbon the last couple weeks. Looking forward to getting the #1 Burton strong ale brewed. Finally back on my own computer & writing my books again. I'm on Amazon Kindle if anyone cares for a look. Can't get photobucket pics to work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peekaboo_jones Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Thanks Otto and Phil, it's a tough decision! With the Saison I'll try the single vessel bulk prime and maybe with the Cascade Pale Ale I'll prime to the cleaned and sanitised Saison vessel. On a side note, recently I managed to source some Equinox hops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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