What am I missing?

[garydjoyce]

Hi all,

I’ve been brewing from kits for 18 months now from a different supplier and had success with every single brew. My brother in law recently got me a few coopers home brew kits and I’ve done 2 and they’re absolutely awful! I love Coopers ale but these are not a patch on it so clearly I am missing something. Both have come out with zero head retention and a lack of flavour (pale ale and Mexican cervaza). I used the wort from the cans and the appropriate brew enhancer as it states, in with the yeast and then bottle. I note there is no boiling of any grains or sugars.

so what am I missing? I feel that the can or wort and brew enhancer is not enough? Or should go back to my other supplier?!!

cheers

[Aussiekraut]

18 minutes ago, garydjoyce said:

Hi all,

I’ve been brewing from kits for 18 months now from a different supplier and had success with every single brew. My brother in law recently got me a few coopers home brew kits and I’ve done 2 and they’re absolutely awful! I love Coopers ale but these are not a patch on it so clearly I am missing something. Both have come out with zero head retention and a lack of flavour (pale ale and Mexican cervaza). I used the wort from the cans and the appropriate brew enhancer as it states, in with the yeast and then bottle. I note there is no boiling of any grains or sugars.

so what am I missing? I feel that the can or wort and brew enhancer is not enough? Or should go back to my other supplier?!!

cheers

It's been a while since I brewed kits but from memory, the pale ale works quite nicely, although I never used brew enhancers but DME instead and I replaced the kit yeast with something like US-05. I also replaced the carbonation lollies and bulk primed instead. I only made the cerveza once but can't remember the result. the PA did have decent head formation and retention though. 

Did the bottles get enough time to carbonate and at what temperature? They need around 18C for at least a week, sometimes even more.

Edited May 8, 2023 by Aussiekraut

[Classic Brewing Co]

8 minutes ago, garydjoyce said:

Hi all,

I’ve been brewing from kits for 18 months now from a different supplier and had success with every single brew. My brother in law recently got me a few coopers home brew kits and I’ve done 2 and they’re absolutely awful! I love Coopers ale but these are not a patch on it so clearly I am missing something. Both have come out with zero head retention and a lack of flavour (pale ale and Mexican cervaza). I used the wort from the cans and the appropriate brew enhancer as it states, in with the yeast and then bottle. I note there is no boiling of any grains or sugars.

so what am I missing? I feel that the can or wort and brew enhancer is not enough? Or should go back to my other supplier?!!

cheers

Hi @garydjoyce Welcome to the forum. It would help to know a bit about your methods but if you follow the directions there is no reason the Coopers brews wouldn't be great.

The first obvious comment I would make would be the addition of some extra malt, take the Pale Ale for example: 

1 x Can Coopers Pale Ale 1.7gms

1 x BE2 or BE3

500gms-1kg of Coopers Light Dried Malt

Hops of your choice

Supplied Yeast

Pitch yeast a 24c, brew at 18-20c for 14 days & you should have an excellent Pale Ale.

Of course, there would be many other points to consider, do you have temperature control, are you storing your bottle at 18c in a stable location & it goes on.

I have done this basic recipe for years & never had a bad one. The added malt aids with head retention & of course there are different yeasts to suit different beers also varying brewing temperatures.

 

[DavidM]

My "GoTo Brew" is Coopers Pale Ale.

A Can of Pale Ale, Box of BE3, and 500g's of Light Dry Malt

I'd say you can't go wrong

I did have trouble with my first few brews keeping the temp up once the beer is in the bottles but that is fixed now.

Need to keep them warm for the first week in the bottle to carbonate. Then Two or three weeks to age, longer is better.

(I no longer use BE3, I buy bulk powders and mix my own, almost the same.)

[garydjoyce]

Thanks gents. Malt is definitely a try on the next one and the pale ale is in a middle bedroom (three weeks) and clearly not warm enough. I’ll move a few bottles into a cupboard as a tester and see what difference that makes. Appreciate the advice guys.

[Kegory]

I just bottled a Coopers Pale Ale: can + brew enhancer + water + dried yeast from under the lid. I had a sneaky taste, it definitely wasn't tasteless.

[DavidM]

1 hour ago, garydjoyce said:

I’ll move a few bottles into a cupboard as a tester and see what difference that makes

You will need to stick a thermometer in there as well, to see what temp it is at.

[garydjoyce]

48 minutes ago, Kegory said:

I just bottled a Coopers Pale Ale: can + brew enhancer + water + dried yeast from under the lid. I had a sneaky taste, it definitely wasn't tasteless.

Mmmm, temperature may be my problem

[garydjoyce]

11 minutes ago, DavidM said:

You will need to stick a thermometer in there as well, to see what temp it is at.

Yep will do. Or I’ll put a few on my brew heat mat and see what happens!

[Oldbloke]

3 hours ago, DavidM said:

You will need to stick a thermometer in there as well, to see what temp it is at.

I prefer not to do that as there is a potential for bacterial infection. 

 

I just taped some foam to the side of the barrel to create a "pocket" and leave a thermometer in it. And no need to open the barrel. Not as precise though.  

Sensor for the Inkbird is in the same pocket.

Horses for courses. 

 

Oops, your talking bottles, not fv. Sorry.

Edited May 8, 2023 by Oldbloke

[ChairmanDrew]

5 hours ago, garydjoyce said:

Thanks gents. Malt is definitely a try on the next one and the pale ale is in a middle bedroom (three weeks) and clearly not warm enough. I’ll move a few bottles into a cupboard as a tester and see what difference that makes. Appreciate the advice guys.

What sort of temperature are you keeping these at (at a guess)?

 

Also, how long are you leaving them in the bottle before drinking?

[garydjoyce]

8 hours ago, Oldbloke said:

I prefer not to do that as there is a potential for bacterial infection. 

 

I just taped some foam to the side of the barrel to create a "pocket" and leave a thermometer in it. And no need to open the barrel. Not as precise though.  

Sensor for the Inkbird is in the same pocket.

Horses for courses. 

 

Oops, your talking bottles, not fv. Sorry.

No worries! I do as you do so all good!

[garydjoyce]

8 hours ago, ChairmanDrew said:

What sort of temperature are you keeping these at (at a guess)?

 

Also, how long are you leaving them in the bottle before drinking?

Well we’re in autumn now and the heating isn’t on so I’m guessing 15 degrees which would mean secondary fermentation hasn’t happened yet. Hence me sticking a few in a warmer cupboard. Been 3 weeks before I tested one. 
my other supplier I use has never given me any issues but I can’t remember if I ever bottled before with the same house temperature. Trial and error I guess.

[garydjoyce]

14 hours ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Hi @garydjoyce Welcome to the forum. It would help to know a bit about your methods but if you follow the directions there is no reason the Coopers brews wouldn't be great.

The first obvious comment I would make would be the addition of some extra malt, take the Pale Ale for example: 

1 x Can Coopers Pale Ale 1.7gms

1 x BE2 or BE3

500gms-1kg of Coopers Light Dried Malt

Hops of your choice

Supplied Yeast

Pitch yeast a 24c, brew at 18-20c for 14 days & you should have an excellent Pale Ale.

Of course, there would be many other points to consider, do you have temperature control, are you storing your bottle at 18c in a stable location & it goes on.

I have done this basic recipe for years & never had a bad one. The added malt aids with head retention & of course there are different yeasts to suit different beers also varying brewing temperatures.

 

Well I’m definitely going to give this a crack. I haven’t used any additional malt or hops at all so will look at that. I’ll get the heat mat out again and go for round 2! Thanks

[Oldbloke]

1 hour ago, garydjoyce said:

Well I’m definitely going to give this a crack. I haven’t used any additional malt or hops at all so will look at that. I’ll get the heat mat out again and go for round 2! Thanks

21c will be fine. 5 days will do the trick.

Forget BE 1 & 2. BE 3 or LDME are the go.

 

Personally I don't drink any till they are 12 weeks in the bottle. Usually longer.

Edited May 8, 2023 by Oldbloke

[Classic Brewing Co]

51 minutes ago, garydjoyce said:

Well I’m definitely going to give this a crack. I haven’t used any additional malt or hops at all so will look at that. I’ll get the heat mat out again and go for round 2! Thanks

After you have done a few brews, you will find each batch becomes easier & you will complete the job a lot easier.

Tha basic Coopers DIY Beer Kit is aimed at the raw beginner as it is supplying the basic ingredients to make a basic beer with little fuss. Let's call it a starting point, a few things to consider are the recipes can be modified & varied to suit your own taste. The use if extra malt improves the body & head retention. Check out the chart below on most of the basic contents of Malts & Sugars, if you use plain sugar or Dextrose, your beer will be cidery, weak & have no head. Using the Brew Enhancers will improve this & produce a better result.

Therefore, using the BE that is recommended for the particular beer & adding 500gms of malt will give the best result.

Hops are completely different matter as the cans of Extract come to you pre-hopped, but you can add extra for extra bitterness & flavour.

Yeast is also very complex & there are many varieties, it is probably better to stick to the basic supplied yeast for the moment as they will do the job providing your brewing & storage temperatures are within the basic guidelines. 

Attached is a basic recipe for the Coopers Pale Ale, they use POR - Pride of Ringwood in their commercial version but there are many others that will still be OK.

I will post a couple of recipes that I have done over the years for you.

I hope this helps.

Cheers

Phil

 

https://www.brewcabin.com/hop-varieties/

[Classic Brewing Co]

Here are a couple of Coopers Pale Ale recipes I have done over the years.

I have found it is always best to keep brew notes for future reference & also to improve/fine tune.

 

[garydjoyce]

39 minutes ago, Classic Brewing Co said:

Here are a couple of Coopers Pale Ale recipes I have done over the years.

I have found it is always best to keep brew notes for future reference & also to improve/fine tune.

 

Awesome! Thanks so much, I’m definitely going to give it another crack. I can’t knock it if I’ve not tried with all the ingredients. I do keep notes but I use an app called Brewtracker which does all of this for me.

free app and well worth a go.

 

thanks again

[DavidM]

3 hours ago, garydjoyce said:

Brewtracker which does all of this for me.

free app and well worth a go.

I also use "Brew Tracker" works for Me.

Some keep a paper book, others use a Spreadsheet.

As long as you have notes, all good 

[jackgym]

On 5/9/2023 at 8:55 AM, Classic Brewing Co said:

After you have done a few brews, you will find each batch becomes easier & you will complete the job a lot easier.

Tha basic Coopers DIY Beer Kit is aimed at the raw beginner as it is supplying the basic ingredients to make a basic beer with little fuss. Let's call it a starting point, a few things to consider are the recipes can be modified & varied to suit your own taste. The use if extra malt improves the body & head retention. Check out the chart below on most of the basic contents of Malts & Sugars, if you use plain sugar or Dextrose, your beer will be cidery, weak & have no head. Using the Brew Enhancers will improve this & produce a better result.

Therefore, using the BE that is recommended for the particular beer & adding 500gms of malt will give the best result.

Hops are completely different matter as the cans of Extract come to you pre-hopped, but you can add extra for extra bitterness & flavour.

Yeast is also very complex & there are many varieties, it is probably better to stick to the basic supplied yeast for the moment as they will do the job providing your brewing & storage temperatures are within the basic guidelines. 

Attached is a basic recipe for the Coopers Pale Ale, they use POR - Pride of Ringwood in their commercial version but there are many others that will still be OK.

I will post a couple of recipes that I have done over the years for you.

I hope this helps.

Cheers

Phil

 

https://www.brewcabin.com/hop-varieties/

"Therefore, using the BE that is recommended for the particular beer & adding 500gms of malt will give the best result."

The above line is so true. The main recipe I use requires 1kg of BE2 and 500gms of LDM and can of Canadian Blonde.

The 500gms LDM is used to boil the hops with.

The head on the glass never fails to impress.

I leave my bottles for around 30 days before drinking.

Here's the recipe if interested: https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/helga-s-cool-kolsch.html