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About Me

Found 42 results

  1. Looks like my new temp controller isn't "essential freight" out of Victoria. Guess I'll have to manually manage temps for a bit longer. No lagers planned atmo anyway.
  2. Still waiting for the controller. le sigh! But I now have a Fermenting Fridge - it's all fridge so it fits 2 x FV's in there. Perfect for purpose. Cost a massive $30. And he brought it around for me! I've got another fridge coming which was to be the FF but it has a freezer section at top which meant only 1 FV at a time. (although I did pick up a squat but fatter FV that I was hoping to fit in with the taller one) That fridge will now be the supplies and beer fridge.
  3. Hey Brew Dudes Hopefully everyone is keeping well given the current circumstances. On Tuesday I commenced a brew day to punch out one of the best dark beers I've ever done (Note @Beerlust I refrain my say my best beer 'eva). The first mistake, well it led to the rest, was that when measuring my Grain I placed the Flaked Barley in with my Maris Otter and then put the Amber Malt, Chocolate Malt, Carafa and the Roasted Barley on top. And nixed it. As i put the grain into the hopper on my grain mill I started to think about a stuck mash. At the end of the 60 minute mash process I cracked open the valve and not a single drop flowed. I thought I might get a couple of liters before it stuck. What followed was a painstaking process of scooping the grains out and with 3 large pots, rinsing the grains at of rate of 50g a time. Efficiency was down, 64%, and it finished a bit on the low side at 1.011. I've got a 4.4% Stout which tastes good. As soon as I keg it I'm fronting up again to have another crack with an overhauled Mash Tun. Cheers & Beers Scottie
  4. Hi there, I havent posted much, life got busy and well now its gone a little bit quiet, enough for me to sit down and start planning my next brew. During spring I picked about 2 kilos of fresh strawberries and I was thinking of making a srawberry American Pale ale, my current recpie is: 1-2 Kg of Crystal medium for a grain steep 1.7 kg can of black rock pale Ale extract 1kg Dextrose 11.5 g US05 yeast 50g Galaxy hops 50g Belma (though due to current shipping contrainsts that is now banjaxed) so 50g cascade 2Kg stawberries. I was plaaning on using the Galaxy and cascade during the boil and then dry hop. the thing is with the stawberries I am going to puuree them and strin them to try and get rid of the seeds as I have heard the seeds can add some interesting flavours. I want the stawberries to be there when you drink it, would you add the stawberries during the boil, or do it just before you pitch the yeast? Any help would be grately appreciated. Kindest regards Peter
  5. Has anyone had any experience with the Digiboil from KegLand? Seems like it would make a good BIAB kettle like the Crown Urns. Good price too https://www.kegland.com.au/35l-digiboil-digital-turbo-boiler-2400watt.html
  6. While browsing around I found this recipe. I have been known to have a go at drinking my weight in Guinness so thought, Hmm... Storing it here for others to try and so I can come back to it once I start graining it. Recipe is: 12 oz roasted barley (340g) 4 oz 55 L Crystal Malt Steep for 30 minutes @ 150-153 degrees F (113g) 24 oz flaked barley (680g) 6 # Lite DME (3kg Light Dry Malt) 1 oz EKG @ 4% -60 min (28g) 8 oz malto-dextrin powder (225g) 1 tsp. Irish Moss (???) WLP004 Irish Ale Yeast (presume =>11g) 2 TBSP Lactic acid at bottling! (???) Primary 1 week @ 68 degrees F Secondary: 1 week @ 66-68 degrees F 3/4 c. corn sugar for priming -bottles So comments please on my thoughts here... This is boil approx 1 kg grains (2 x barley) + the 3 kg DME + the maltodextrin. (How long is normal for this?) 60 mins before ending boil, add EKG After boil, wait for temp to drop to under 70°C then teabag the Crystal Malt for 30 mins (and remove?) Irish Moss? An algae? Or is this a liquid extract thing? Lactic acid - To reduce sourness? A pH level adjustment?
  7. Greetings from Cape York, long time brewer (30 years) first time poster. I find myself in Cape York for at least the next 2 years . I started brewing with kits and moved to AG brewing 10 years ago. I tend to stick mainly to Ales primarily because the yeast tends to be more forgiving although I do exercise some form of temp control plus I'm not a fan of the sulphury smell of some lagers. For example Great Northern which has been filtered to the extreme IMO . Speaking of which the beer up here is very cost prohibitive I refuse to pay over $90 for a carton of that or Emu Export for that matter, so I have started brewing up here but unfortunately all my gear kegs etc are in storage so I went back to the kits which used to make acceptable beer. Which brings me to my question, the water up here comes from the Jardine river treated with Calcium Hypochlorite etc stored in settlement ponds then straight to the tap. Thus far the beer I have made has been shite and I can't pinpoint what I am doing wrong taking cleanliness and sanitisation out of the picture I can only point to the water? (which is very soft by the way) I have read the water quality reports and the part that interests me is the saline content, the reports just give the numbers at less than 180 parts per million ( this is supposedly the point where it can't be tasted?) I am assuming that salt is used to soften the water in some respect although I am happy to be corrected? from what I have read it is also used to remove the hardness ( heavy metals?) Now the beer I have been making has a very astringent taste to it & some bitterness which I attribute to Iso-Alpha acids perhaps ? The first batch tasted like liquid smoke which was clearly infected Any suggestions apart from buying bottled water which by the way is also expensive $30 for 20 litres and as far as I am concerned the object of the exercise is to make the best quality beer for the lowest possible price.
  8. I wanted to get this little 5g sachet packet of brigalow brewing yeast from the shops and was wondering if its any good compared to using the coopers kit yeast? Also really wondering what the max abv it can get up to like 15% to 20% perhaps? Thanks
  9. I've been asked if I can do a lager (if they buy all the consumables) I can do it with the fridge but what I am wondering is... if I have an ale fermenting and want to put a lager in there, will dropping the temp to the lager temp stop the ale fermenting or just slow it down? Or does it depend solely on what yeast I use in the ale? I'm thinking maybe I could have the ale in for a week or so at 18° then drop it to (say) 12° for the lager and not cause issues (apart from extending ferment time) for the ale.
  10. Hi all Just a quick question as this is my first Coopers lager brew. Now on day 6 so I'll begin testing the FG tonight to see if it has stabilised. Brewed at 22 degrees... Most of the foam has disappeared and I've noticed a discolouration over the past few days at the top of the brew. Just checking that it's normal? Many thanks
  11. Hi, brand new to brewing but have listened to a few brewers across the years. I bought a kit and extras 2nd hand from a FB Buy/Swap member. In the stuff I got were several immersion heaters, 2 with temp control - I checked they worked before hand and sterilised one. I cut a hole in the top of the bucket (lid) and a hole in a silicon bung to feed the power lead through and dangled the heater in the bucket. I cleaned and sanitized and started with a Real Ale Coopers can and No3 Enhancer. I gave it a couple of hours and realised I'd forgotten to get OG so I did that and it looked to be ~1035. I also checked the look & saw the heater had no LED glow. It was late so I got an old electric blanket and wrapped the bucket so it wouldn't chill overnight. Unfortunately it was a double blanket and the side I set to 1 wasn't the side I plugged in so I woke to find the brew showing 36°. I unwrapped to let it cool. Took HOURS but eventually came down to 24° by that evening so I wrapped it (with no heating) and went to bed. All yesterday and today it's been sitting at 22°. I'd guess it was above 26° for about 12 hours with an unknown number of those overnight until I got up and found the temp so high. It was late when I turned on the blanket - maybe 11 PM. Inspections: During the warm period when the temp was about 26° I could see where the top frothiness (can't recall what that is called) had reached but the surface was bubble covered with small patches showing liquid. Slight bubbling was happening across the surface. At 22° the surface looked still. I wondered if I killed the yeast - I did the SG and it's now about 1010. I started late Wed arvo, it's now Sat arvo. The sample for SG smelled like beer, bit cloudy, had slight fizziness. I plan to SG tomorrow because I am wondering if the heat may have forced a fast brew. Have I spoiled my first batch? Could it have completed brewing in such a short time? From reading up a bit, I am hopeful the early heat may have been countered by the yeast being able to break down the unwanted products.
  12. First brew is settling for a couple of days prior to bottling so I thought I'd plan for what goes in the next brew. I have: 2 x Coopers Draught cans (old BBD Sep 10 for 1 and Oct 19 for other)) 1 x Coopers Dark Ale can (new) 1 x Brew Enhancer #3 bag of sugar (think it's just table sugar but it's very fine) Brown sugar I'd like to make a stronger than normal drinkable beer. I figure I will need new yeast for the Draught cans and plan to get LDM 500gm Currently I am thinking... Plan 1: 2 x Draught, BE3, 250 gm brown sugar, 250 gm normal sugar - hopefully counter the bitterness mentioned from combining 2 cans? Plan 2: 1 x Dark Ale, BE3, LDM - unsure about brown sugar for this - it SOUNDS like it would add a nice flavour, but...? Thoughts please?
  13. Hello Put down an IPA last Wednesday and the SG is stuck at around 1014. How can I get it down further. cheers Bernie
  14. Hi guys. Before I say anything, I respect both sides of this equation & question. Given some of the commercial brews released by Coopers in the last 24 months, I was really interested in the links between the commercial entity & the DIY entity in terms of overall development & contact between the two in regard to Coopers beers moving forward. You're both crack teams & I was wondering if there was any interaction &/or rivalry on some level between the two, & was hoping for a little insight into how you both might interact at times if indeed this even happens. Secretly I'm hoping I've opened a conversation where you two proud Coopers areas can have a bit of fun in a friendly slinging match I reckon everyone on the forum would really enjoy reading. I've turned the volume setting to "ON" with the mic, any takers in Coopers land? Cheers, Lusty.
  15. I started a new 4L batch of beer today with coopers mexican cerveza and havent seen many bubbles out of the airlock? I used regular white sugar instead of the brew enhancer but did pretty much everything else right. My OG was 1.050
  16. I’m fairly new to homebrewing and have started a batch of 86 Day Pilsner. It’s been fermenting for 10 days now and isn't in the specific gravity that I was advised it should be in on the hydrometer after checking 3 days in a row. Its still bubbling from the airlock and bubbles once every 10 minutes and has been fermenting between 20-22 degrees. Reading through the online instructions and the instructions on the tin it says that it should be ready after 6 days at 21 degrees but the hydrometer readings arent consistent. I was told it was supposed to be in the green on the hydrometer. Online it mentions that the 86 days pilsner takes longer than other products in the Thomas Cooper range? Has anyone had any experience with the 86 Days Pilsner and can give any advice when I should bottle or any things I should be looking out for or any general advice? Thanks in advance
  17. Thought this was interesting. Worth a read. Full article
  18. Hey Legends, Just joined the home craft brewing game and wanting to make a nice and refreshing Mexican Cerveza. I’ve got the tin from big w. Hoping around 4-4.5% mark with light hops and bitterness. Ideally a basic crisp beer to begin. Can anyone give me an easy and basic recipe to start with that they have tried? Cheers!
  19. Was interested to read this. https://patspints.com/2019/01/16/the-surprising-science-of-dry-hopping-lessons-from-tom-shellhammer/?fbclid=IwAR21mhWNL2_kQ_-6-o99q1rSEQGKAvgGClsklo3JY4Mes5dz3IL9SvzdMOA
  20. Hi guys. I"ve just made a Pale Ale from a fresh wort which I've done many times with great success. This time however I've kegged it then chilled it and gave it 24 hours of gas as usual. BUT, this time I pour it and it's super syrupy in texture. It's not sweet at all and the final gravity was 1012 or so. It tastes ok - quite bitter but sort of normal but it's very very syrupy with seemingly some bits floating around in it. IT was a fresh wort and I put 50 or so grams of galaxy hop pellets in on day 4 or so. JUst wondering if anyone thinks this is worth holding on to or might it be a gonner!
  21. I know this topic has come up before but I have not found an acceptable answer to date. I have been making HB for an awful long time, Joined the Coopers Club back in the days when you had to pay and the Internet being a success was still up for debate (Coopers membership number 24154) I have been kegging for only about 2 years with great success until my last 2 brews. Last 2 kegs have poured nothing but head. I am at a loss as I have changed nothing and the preceding 100+ keg poured perfectly. Both brews were in different kegs, lines and taps but in the same keezer, same proven method,temps etc. Any idea would be appreciated, Cheers Billy
  22. Hey guys, lucky enough to have both of these gizmos running in a batch. Will let you know how the both progress. Initially the plaato was not seeing any activity where the tilt was recording well. Initially i thought it was because this plaato is half dead (temp measure is kaput). Tightend the fv lid and put it into learning mode and adjusted to match the tilt reading now going great guns. Will see how it pans out over the next few days.
  23. Hi guys! Might I say what a great community you have going here! I'm a noob who's diving headlong into the world of home-brewed happiness and would love a couple of suggestions on how I could make my next (*cough* second) brew more interesting and beneficial to my personal beer-velopment. Being as green as a Boags tinny I'm not looking for anything super complex, in fact maybe just a simple addition of another extract or supplementary sugar (honey/golden syrup etc) that from your experience might improve my plan. Using the old classic coopers home brew kit and hoping to make a dark(ish) drop using the following ingredients: - Coopers Dark Ale can - 500g Light DME - 1kg Dextrose Aaaand that's it so far. Straight out of blocks does anyone think this will make a really shitty beer if I just used these on their own (I should state that my expectations are optimistically low)? What would you add to spice it up? Bonus question: can I exclusively use stellarsan to get that OG lager can scuzz off my shiny new brew kit without creating a highschool science experiment in my fermenter? Hop on legends! Cheers, Brew Budgie xo
  24. I put my first brew down. I bought a kit of gumtree, not used still in box untouched. I pulled it out, cleaned it with warm water, 2 tablespoons of bleach in about 5 litres of water then rinsed it out with water again. Followed the proceedure with brew going down at temp of 26-24 degrees. Photos attached are 24 hours and just checked now after about 36 hours and no reaction on bubbling away reaction. One other thing, the malt was about 3 years out of date! I asked a mate who brews and he said it probably doesn't matter. But now with nil reaction i'm not so sure. I didn't check the other ingredients or enhancer either for date but from same box. What you think? Just discard and start again a new brew or wait?
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