LALBREW® VOSS KVEIK ALE YEAST

[Shamus O'Sean]

3 hours ago, James Lao said:

Was wondering about conditioning time/temp in bottles for this yeast.

Great question James.  Let's see what feedback you get.

[Frankie4Fingers]

@MartyG1525230263 How have your pressure ferments gone with this?  Have you dry hopped as well when doing pressure ferments?

I have just picked up a sachet of this from my LHBS and am shortly going to do my first ever brew with it.  I have a Fresh Wort Kit that I am going to use it on which I am also wanting to dry hop with 80g of Citra to give it some extra punch.  I'm thinking that I will aim for a 37C ferment based on what I have seen so far in this thread.

Given how quickly this yeast ferments I am wondering when exactly I should be looking to dry hop in the FV. 

Or should I dry hop in the keg instead?  I have a brand new Kegland keg that has the attachment on the underside of the lid for a hop bomb which will allow me to keep the hops suspended in the brew.

Any thoughts from the community?

Edited July 31, 2020 by Frankie4Fingers

[therealthing691]

i am conditioning mine at 24  but is only a week if there not carbed at all at 2 weeks i will crank it up . I only bottle and is the first time i have used this yeast but i can condition up to 35 to 40 c if required

 

[Norris!]

2 hours ago, Frankie4Fingers said:

@MartyG1525230263 How have your pressure ferments gone with this?  Have you dry hopped as well when doing pressure ferments?

I have just picked up a sachet of this from my LHBS and am shortly going to do my first ever brew with it.  I have a Fresh Wort Kit that I am going to use it on which I am also wanting to dry hop with 80g of Citra to give it some extra punch.  I'm thinking that I will aim for a 37C ferment based on what I have seen so far in this thread.

Given how quickly this yeast ferments I am wondering when exactly I should be looking to dry hop in the FV. 

Or should I dry hop in the keg instead?  I have a brand new Kegland keg that has the attachment on the underside of the lid for a hop bomb which will allow me to keep the hops suspended in the brew.

Any thoughts from the community?

You could dry hop in the keg, I would use half the intended amount first go, so 40g, as it can be intense and a little goes a long way in the keg.

You could also wait until it is done to dry hop or dry hop right at the beginning of fermentation, I have thought about it with this yeast but didn't want to lose the aroma. I settled on dropping it in on day 2 when I check the gravity. It usually has a point or two to go and it makes me feel better than fermentation is still going to help stop hop creep.

So with that said try the keg hop as the risk seems lower and the extra hops you will have left over.

[Marty_G]

2 hours ago, Frankie4Fingers said:

@MartyG1525230263 How have your pressure ferments gone with this?  Have you dry hopped as well when doing pressure ferments?

I have just picked up a sachet of this from my LHBS and am shortly going to do my first ever brew with it.  I have a Fresh Wort Kit that I am going to use it on which I am also wanting to dry hop with 80g of Citra to give it some extra punch.  I'm thinking that I will aim for a 37C ferment based on what I have seen so far in this thread.

Given how quickly this yeast ferments I am wondering when exactly I should be looking to dry hop in the FV. 

Or should I dry hop in the keg instead?  I have a brand new Kegland keg that has the attachment on the underside of the lid for a hop bomb which will allow me to keep the hops suspended in the brew.

Any thoughts from the community?

My pressure ferments with this yeast have gone wonderfully.  Given the chance i would try to convert every brewer o pressure fermentation it is wonderful.  In the context of dry hopping: As an all grain brewer and a pressure fermenter I avoid dry hopping for a couple of reasons.  1) I have never been a fan. I think the utilisation is not great and subsequently have to use large quantities to get a good result. 2) Dry hopping while pressure fermenting can be problematic but by using late additions and hop stands when I make a wort i get great utilisation from the hops and the flavours and aroma are not lost into the ether but remain in the pressure vessel so effectively dry hopping is not needed.  

[Frankie4Fingers]

1 hour ago, Norris! said:

You could dry hop in the keg, I would use half the intended amount first go, so 40g, as it can be intense and a little goes a long way in the keg.

You could also wait until it is done to dry hop or dry hop right at the beginning of fermentation, I have thought about it with this yeast but didn't want to lose the aroma. I settled on dropping it in on day 2 when I check the gravity. It usually has a point or two to go and it makes me feel better than fermentation is still going to help stop hop creep.

So with that said try the keg hop as the risk seems lower and the extra hops you will have left over.

Cool, thanks for the info.  I think this is a good way to go so will head down this path.  This will be the first time I have dry hopped in the keg so could you validate my process:

1. Sanitise the keg and push the sanitiser out to ensure the dip tube is done.
2. Sanitise the hop bomb and pop hops in once done
3. Pop the lid of the keg, attach hop bomb, refit and then purge with CO2
4. Sealed transfer from my fermentasaurus to keg as per other beers I have brewed.

Does that sound about right?

[Frankie4Fingers]

1 hour ago, MartyG1525230263 said:

My pressure ferments with this yeast have gone wonderfully.  Given the chance i would try to convert every brewer o pressure fermentation it is wonderful.  In the context of dry hopping: As an all grain brewer and a pressure fermenter I avoid dry hopping for a couple of reasons.  1) I have never been a fan. I think the utilisation is not great and subsequently have to use large quantities to get a good result. 2) Dry hopping while pressure fermenting can be problematic but by using late additions and hop stands when I make a wort i get great utilisation from the hops and the flavours and aroma are not lost into the ether but remain in the pressure vessel so effectively dry hopping is not needed.  

Thanks Marty.  Not being an all grain brewer I don't have the range of options you employ......I could see why you follow your process though.  I have had good outcomes when dry hopping in the f'saurus when doing NEIPA's but all these have been via FWK's using standard yeasts.  This time around I will dry hop in the keg as per Norris' advice and see where I go.

I will be fermenting in a fridge with a heat belt attached controlled with an STC-1000.  I take it that the heat belt will be enough to keep generating heat within the fridge which will turn itself into a bit of a hotbox to achieve 37C.

And finally I use the spunding valve set to 15 PSI with a blow off tube into a bottle of starsan and I'm set to go.

[Norris!]

59 minutes ago, Frankie4Fingers said:

Cool, thanks for the info.  I think this is a good way to go so will head down this path.  This will be the first time I have dry hopped in the keg so could you validate my process:

1. Sanitise the keg and push the sanitiser out to ensure the dip tube is done.
2. Sanitise the hop bomb and pop hops in once done
3. Pop the lid of the keg, attach hop bomb, refit and then purge with CO2
4. Sealed transfer from my fermentasaurus to keg as per other beers I have brewed.

Does that sound about right?

Sounds pretty spot on

[Frankie4Fingers]

Thanks Norris!

[therealthing691]

i would say higher temps required for bottle conditioning time period required we will find out cranking it up to 38c day one

 

[Beerlust]

1 hour ago, therealthing691 said:

i would say higher temps required for bottle conditioning time period required we will find out cranking it up to 38c day one

 

A good yeast strain for the keggers who force carb, but maybe not so good for the ambient temp natural carb bottlers during the colder months of the year?

[therealthing691]

i condition my stuff in my dead fermenting freezer that is redundant for fermenting .Its bloody great for conditioning  is at at 38c and holding it easy i would say 3 days tops but lets see as i am a virgin with this yeast cheers LOL

 

[therealthing691]

i fermented at nearly 40c so it makes sense to condition at the same lower temps wasnt doing much so lets see

 

[therealthing691]

After not doing much in the low 20's i bumped it up to 38c  48hrs later we have bubbles but will leave for 96 just to make sure all are carbed  up the Whole 23L of them then in the normal fridge they go .Taste compared to US-05 i think its not as dry smoother and at 7.6% abv cant taste the alcohol is a bit dangerous as its very easy drinking

[James Lao]

What do you use to maintain the temp at high 30’s?

I have a reptile heat blanket in my fridge but don’t think it has seen much use.

I suppose if the the brew is already at that temp, the exothermic(?) action of the fermenting wort would maintain the temp,  along with being in an insulated  fridge with a heat blanket..?
 

Brew night tonight so will find out soon enough!

Cheers

James

[Frankie4Fingers]

42 minutes ago, James Lao said:

What do you use to maintain the temp at high 30’s?

I have a reptile heat blanket in my fridge but don’t think it has seen much use.

I suppose if the the brew is already at that temp, the exothermic(?) action of the fermenting wort would maintain the temp,  along with being in an insulated  fridge with a heat blanket..?
 

Brew night tonight so will find out soon enough!

Cheers

James

I am keen to know this as well.  I have a heat belt that I have always used which is controlled via an STC-1000 which live in my ferment fridge.  If I set the temp to 37C will the heat belt be enough to take the wort temp up to what it needs to be given it is inside a fridge?  I am thinking like you @James Lao that the fridge would eventually turn into a hot box and maintain the temperature as needed.

I don't have a heat blanket and have never insulated the FV before and the wort has comfortably hit the 18-20C temperature.  Going double that though isn't something I have done before so not sure if the heat belt on its own is enough to get it there.

Are there others on here that use a similar setup and manage to hit what is needed?

Another q is whether others get the wort up to ~35C before they then pitch the yeast?  I have always had the wort at the lower end of the fermenting temp range when pitching.  I will be using a FWK this time with this yeast so if I should try to get the temp up then I would start that process a good few hours prior.

[therealthing691]

i have a old freezer which doesn't work anymore   it easily  holds 38 with 2  heat mats  but 1 i think would do the trick  for fermenting or conditioning . Mine was at 38 c and held around 38 to 39.5 c cheers as mine was fruit beer and any added fruit esters is fine by me cheers

 

 

[Frankie4Fingers]

Ok cool. Hopefully shouldn't have an issue getting to the desired temp then with a heat belt around the FV.

Cheers

[Shamus O'Sean]

I got the inside of my fermentation freezer up to 38°C with a heat belt without any problems.  The heat belt was loose in the freezer, not wrapped around the fermenter.  Wort was already around 40°C.

Edited August 11, 2020 by Shamus O'Sean

[therealthing691]

1 hour ago, Shamus O'Sean said:

I got the inside of my fermentation freezer up to 38°C with a heat belt without any problems.  The heat belt was loose in the freezer, not wrapped around the fermenter.  Wort was already around 40°C.

same with mine wort was there as well to begin with the mats just held the temp

 

[Beerlust]

I reckon I'm gonna give this strain ago in the warmer months under ambient conditions that appear to suit it's ideal fermentability range.

It really could be a terrific solution for new home brewers that struggle with controlling ferment temps particularly in the Summer months here in AUS.

Cheers,

Lusty.

[therealthing691]

4 minutes ago, Beerlust said:

I reckon I'm gonna give this strain ago in the warmer months under ambient conditions that appear to suit it's ideal fermentability range.

It really could be a terrific solution for new home brewers that struggle with controlling ferment temps particularly in the Summer months here in AUS.

Cheers,

Lusty.

thats why i used it as my fermenting freezer bit the bullet. I thought give it a go and i love it . Even conditioning at 38 c is done quick  as  tried at 25c too slow verdent is the next for me sound like a ripper yeast for hop heavy beers cheers   ohhhhh i got another fermenting freezer  cheap wooooo hoooo

[James Lao]

Just got the brew in pitched at 35degC and the FV with the reptile heating mat is holding temp, and it is a cold night so fingers crossed!

Couldnt believe the smell of the yeast from rehydrating - it was like peaches and cream and it was ballooning up like no other  yeast I have seen!
One hour later and have 1cm of Krausen in the FV.

Everything  you know is wrong with this one it seems!!

Cheers

James

[Frankie4Fingers]

Hmmmm, I'm down in Melbourne so it's significantly cooler at the moment and the wort is in a cube in the garage. I would be surprised if it's more than 12c.

Any tips on getting the temp up in a relatively short time to be ready for pitching?

[Shamus O'Sean]

1 hour ago, Frankie4Fingers said:

Hmmmm, I'm down in Melbourne so it's significantly cooler at the moment and the wort is in a cube in the garage. I would be surprised if it's more than 12c.

Any tips on getting the temp up in a relatively short time to be ready for pitching?

This was back in my early brewing days before temperature control and heat belts and the like.  It was the middle of winter in Melbourne and I had a sluggish ferment going on.  It might have even been a stalled brew.  It was not the right thing to do, but I put the FV on top of a bottle crate that I had placed over a central heating floor duct outlet.  I am not sure about the wort in the FV, but the temperature strip on the outside read 30°C, before I realised it and promptly relocated the FV away from the outlet.  Beer turned out okay.

Warming cold wort in a cube might be risky from an infection point of view.  Although if the inside is sterile, it should be okay, I guess.