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MartyG1525230263 last won the day on October 10

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  1. Welcome to the new kid on the block, Titan
  2. At hte risk of answering for Otto, think you will find it is something like this ferment schedule. Ferment at 10-12c until the SG is around 1020, or dropped 2/3rds of the points needed, then up the temp to 20-22 for a d-rest and let it ferment out to FG. Then cold crash it to ~1c and leave it in the FV for about a week. This way it goes from kit to bottle in about 14 days. If that is not the method it will be close too it. Or alternately you can use a Kveik yeast, I use Voss, and ferment that at the lower end of the temp range so around 24c. It will give a pseudo lager with the crisp lager profile. It will take about 8 days till it is ready to bottle and needs no D-rest. If you cold crash it will take a bit longer but just cold crash it for a couple of days I use that method for my Asian style rice lagers. Works a treat as there is no need for a traditional lagering period.
  3. FYI that is a Pellicile. That may very well just be the yeast you are using. Here have a read of this it may help. I have had it as well and had no massive ill effects from it. https://phdinbeer.com/2015/01/30/beer-microbiology-what-is-a-pellicle/
  4. Brewing my first non pressure ferment yeast driven beer in about 8 months. Just a old school Aussie Sparkling Ale using harvested Coopers Sparkling Ale yeast. Will ferment at a stable 22c so will have to use the fermentation fridge for the 1st time since February.
  5. Yes the difference is stark isn't it. The extract brews are great and even though people tell you that the grain is a step up it is not until you go to grain you realise how big the divide between extract and grain is. Congrats....
  6. Welcome, it would depend on the beer. Hoppy ale, leave for a week at room temp and then drink. Lager keg and chill and leave for a few weeks to lager. Big ale like and heavy English ale leave at ambient for a few weeks. An imperial stout leave in keg for a few months. There really isn't one size fits all but as a general rule kegs condition quicker than bottles and best to store the lagers cold and ales warm. Hope that helps.
  7. Great idea. really like some of those recipes. i am sure they will sell well.
  8. You could just use a water drum with a tap like the one pictured
  9. It is not all for me. I have an all grain production line going as I brew for my son and son in-law. Hence why I have 2 x 50 litre kegmenters so I can do double batches under pressure at higher temps and turn things around a bit quicker.
  10. I have 14 cornies, 13 x 19l and 1 x 10litre, all second hand and have no issues. I live in SEQ so all of my kegs are either off GumTree or MarketPlace as there is no supplier of second hand kegs up here. Over the last couple of years I have bought and flipped loads of stuff and slowly turned over the older kegs and replaced them with new ones. Occasionally I have had to refurbish them but it is no big issue and is good practice to change the popetts and o-rings every so often. If one is patient you can get some great bargains buying secondhand.
  11. Great point. Think I may start pushing my pressure up a tad. I have pushed the temps up and done a lager at 30c may do my next brew at 20 psi then push it up to 30psi at the end. So where did you get the 5 bar figure from for the bottle bombs?
  12. The short answer is: the beer is ready for the next step once the ferment is over and that is usually determined by the SG being stable for 48 hours. If you want that step to be bottling you can do it then. The long answer is: once ferment is over the beer starts to condition and that can be done in any container so it can be the FV, a keg or a bottle. Some brewers would let the beer condition in the FV for few days minimum before packaging. Some will leave it weeks. Some will cold crash the beer for a few days some maybe weeks. However, need to be mindful that beer that is bulk conditioned as in a keg or FV conditions faster than beer conditioning in bottles. So there are definite benefits from not bottling early but if you want you can 48 hours after FG is reached. The decision is yours. Personally, me regime is: a couple of days cold crashing to settle the yeast and other particles out. Then I: keg it, top up the CO2 in the head space and leave it until it is needed. I ferment 40 litre batches in 50 litre pressure fermenters so my times can be a bit quicker than those who use a conventional FV. That is one of the advantages of pressure fermentation as pressure reduces and in some cases eliminates some of the chemical by-poducts of fermentation that need to be conditioned out. So my beer generally goes from grain to keg in 7 days. However, the whole time it is in the keg it is still conditioning.
  13. @Zelly the answer is in the Q&A section. Have a look around and it will be there.
  14. Word of advice from the experienced. Don't go the mini keg route unless you have a very compelling reason. If there is at all a way that you can have 19l kegs try to make that happen.
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