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MartyG1525230263 last won the day on November 17 2020

MartyG1525230263 had the most liked content!

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  1. I am the same about fixing stuff. I know loads of people love the all in ones. I recently had a good think about changing to one but in the end it was the old what happens when it F's up that stopped me. So I am sticking with my 2 vessel BIAB set up.
  2. Hey can still make good beer with Coopers cans. Cut out the 1kg sugar use some malt, get some grains for a mini mash, get some ripper hops for dry hopping and you can turn the a basic kit into something very crafty. That is the beauty of brewing more than one way to do things.
  3. It depends how handy you are and what you want. I build Keezers as a side hobby to make a few $ and making them is piss easy. If you are making keg fridge it is even easier. You can knock up a good 4 keg, 2 tap keg fridge from a 2nd hand upside down fridge for about $100 in about an hour. That is not counting the cost of the fridge or kegs. Good second hand kegs are about $60 -$70 need gas as well. I think it is reasonable, and if you take your time, to say about $400 -$500 would cover all the gear for a 4 keg 2 tap homemade keg fridge.
  4. Correct I don't do a scheduled D rest regime as such. However, with all my beers once the gravity gets below the 1015ish range I bump the temp up anyway. I do it as I found it promotes a faster clean up of the beer as well as helping to get the last few points of fermentation. So if I am fermenting a lager in the 15c range I pump it up to about 20c and an ale in the 22c range I bump it up to about 25c. Some may say that is a D rest but I don't consider it one as a D rest to me is a more systemic increase of temp used when fermenting a low temps . The way that I think, I am just making the clean up easier. Also once FG is reached I still leave it for 48-72 hours before crashing.
  5. My best mate who is no longer with us had the best nic of all time, bedpan and yes it was because everyone put s@#t on him. Top fella and fitting name.
  6. I frequent some footy forums and the constant misspelling of re-sign just does my head in. To re-sign and resign are very different. They are most likely antonyms.
  7. Great, you will notice the difference making your grain brews. It is the way to go. I love my BIAB set up.
  8. Sounds like you know how to make good beer. I wouldn't consider myself an innovative or adventurous brewer either. Most of my brews are old school European, British Isles or Australian flavours. I do make some hoppier APA's but rarely push them too hard as I prefer malt driven beers. I pressure ferment all grain so I suppose I have jumped further down the rabbit hole than you. I have the time, am officially retired and need a hobby. I only work on Saturdays at the LHBS and it is good fun. The guy who owns it is a 3 vessel brewer and he is a great bloke. As far as the guys I serve. I serve loads of guys who do less than you. Most of those do FWKs and dry hop with the recommend hops on the the box. Had some pretty basic questions. One guy decided that he wasn't going to buy the yeast anymore as he didn't need it, when I asked more he thought it was a flavour additive he didn't realise that without the yeast there is no fermentation. Needless to say he left with the yeast.
  9. I agree whole heartedly with the "many ways to do things" and that is what is always at the heart of the advice I give and what I was implying in my post. Whether it is here, other social media or when I am at work in the LHBS I always offer options. Not using a hydrometer or controlling temperature, leaving it for 14 days then bottling is only one of several options. If the brewer opts to make the same kit beer all the time then not using a hydrometer and leaving for 14 days is probably the way to go. However, if an inexperienced brewer mixes it up, changes the mass of fermentables and specific gravity, changes yeast and wants advise on knowing if the ferment is over advising not to use a hydrometer and leave it for 14 days then bottle because one has done that for 30 years with kits and sugar is not the way to go. I also know success with homebrewing is subjective. If a brewer hones the methods and likes the beer then it is a success. If the cookie cutter approach works for a brewer and they like their beer then BINGO we have a winner. I am not knocking it.
  10. There are a couple of things that once really annoyed me but now pretty much let it slide. However the one that I really dislike is: No need for a hydrometer or temperature control just leave it for 14 days then bottle it. It is usually followed by "I have been doing Woolies cans and sugar that way for 30 years and there is nothing wrong with my beer ". I know I shouldn't judge but if that is the only experience you have you should not give advise. It is like giving travel advise to people and the only place you have been is Bali and that was on a Con Tiki tour in 1990.
  11. No D rest is needed but that regime would remove it if it was present anyway.
  12. Thanks Captain. I like spiciness in beer so will definitely up the %.
  13. It was more: I have only used it a few times and that is all I have tried as a % of the grist. After this will bump it up to 10% and see how it goes. Cheers
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