RussellB5 Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 G'day all just a quick query on what is going on in my bottles. i brewed a draught and added boiled hops initially and then also additional dry hops - just through it all in the FV so as you can imagine a bit of sludge come brew day. well as the fv emptied about the last 7 or 8 stubbies were having some hops sucked down into thrm and i was "oh well - she'll be right, cant hurt". well now the stubbies without the hop sediemnt are fine, a delight to drink. the ones with the hop sediment, well you cant open them, if you do they just keep foaming anf foaming until you lse the whole stubby and it brings all the gunk up into the beer. you do a quick pour into a glass and its violent whats goingon in that glass. so my question is whats happening? i bottled after 18 days so fermentation had finished definately and its fine to drink so no infection why is the hop sediemnt doing this and how cani i stop it cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LordEoin Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Yes, it's the hop matter causing it. I tried dry hopping directly to bottles once and it did the exact same thing. Chill the hell out of them and you'll be able to open them no problem [cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Next time you dry hop you could try using a hop bag, chux cloth, or those stainless steel tea strainers a few of us on here use. I've been using the tea strainers in my last couple of brews and have had no hop sediment get through at all.[cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamH1525226084 Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I dry hop a lot and just chuck it straight in. I haven't had any issues after cold crashing for a week - all of the hop matter goes to the bottom of the FV along with the yeast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I rack my brews to a secondary FV. This gets the brew off the heavy trub layer and and makes the beer alot clearer. I dry hop loose into the secondary but have very little problem with hops debris. This is of course is after a 2nd transfer to the bottling bucket for a bulk prime![lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussellB5 Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 yea i picked up half a dozen of the stainless teaballs on ebay and have 40grams of galaxy in 4 of them in an IPA as we speak. so far so much easier and will make bottling a breeze agian to i had just wondered what caused it - it is seriously some violent upsurges happening in the glass, like as if their was an airstone at the bottom of it. i remember some experiment from high school where if you drop something into something under pressure then it causes a boilover but just cant remember the specifics of it and im guessing drinking hop matter isnt harmful to our health??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 and im guessing drinking hop matter isnt harmful to our health??? Quite the opposite I believe. (EDIT: As in, they are beneficial to our health.) I have no idea why it causes that craziness in the bottles though. I really like the tea strainers too. One of them actually floated to the surface on my last brew but once I turned the fridge down to crash chill the beer it sunk back to the bottom again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muleyinoz Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 My guess would be it is similar to the mentos in coke trick. The rough surface of the hop particles cause the CO2 to rapidly come out of suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 You might be onto something there - that's why those Headmaster beer glasses hold a head because the sand blasted base causes the CO2 bubbles to "release" more (and quicker). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 You know that feeling when you have the correct term for something on the tip of your tongue but can't quite remember? [pinched] It's called 'points of something' and I remember hearing the term on this or another forum. EDIT: Got it, nucleation points, that's what they're called. [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Formation maybe? That's the only reason it happens. If you've got rough surfaces or dust in the glass it provides more points for the bubbles to form on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Nucleation. [happy] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Ah yes. I haven't heard that particular term, or if I have I don't remember but I can see where it comes from, as the points are a nucleus for the bubbles to form. I think that's right? [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Ah yes. I haven't heard that particular term' date=' or if I have I don't remember but I can see where it comes from, as the points are a nucleus for the bubbles to form. I think that's right? [biggrin'] Sounds good to me. [happy] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxey Gordon Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Ahh slight hi-jack here. The tea strainers - them sinking into the trub, is that any concern? or are you better off having the hops float about a bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamH1525226084 Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 it all sinks into the trub when you cold crash - so i don't see it being a problemo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Ahh slight hi-jack here. The tea strainers - them sinking into the trub' date=' is that any concern? or are you better off having the hops float about a bit?[/quote'] Sometimes they actually will float. I've noticed this with my last two brews which I have used them in, one of the strainers floats. When I cold crashed it though it sank back to the bottom. The good thing was though that all the hop matter was wet so it all got into the wort/beer.[biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 I've restrained the hops for my last 5 or 6 batches in a voile sack or a tea ball, mainly for the purposes of having cleaner trub for yeast rinsing, and less crap in the bottles, cos I don't have the time to CC. Whether loose in the bag or tight, weighed down or floating, I have noticed a DRAMATIC loss in the level of aroma I get from dry hopping in a bag/ball compared to commando style. I'm gonna try my best to start getting ahead so I can throw them in loose and CC the bits out of there from now on. Others have constant success with the bagged up hops, but it's not working for me so far.[crying] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxey Gordon Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 it all sinks into the trub when you cold crash - so i don't see it being a problemo What are everybody's recommendations for cold crashing? ie time after ferment has finished, temp and length? I've got a fruit salad thats been at 1009 for the past two days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 it all sinks into the trub when you cold crash - so i don't see it being a problemo What are everybody's recommendations for cold crashing? ie time after ferment has finished, temp and length? I've got a fruit salad thats been at 1009 for the past two days. Make sure it has had a few days to clean up after hitting FG. Then drop the temp down as far as you can go. I usually set it at 2 degrees but it depends on your fridge. Chill it for a minimum of three days but the longer the better. My usual routine for an ale is: Brew on the weekend After about 9-10 days I drop the temp (probably on the next Tuesday) Bottle on the weekend (assuming I am not lazy and it sits there for another week) It usually is in primary for 14-16 days before bottling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 When I asked about cold crashing I was recommended to leave the brew a few days after FG then cold crash for a few days to a week at 2C. My fridge didn't quite get down that far but it was close enough (hovered around 3-4). My next brew I'm going to try something a little different. I'll leave it at ferment temp for 12-13 days, then cold crash for another 7-8 days before bottling. It will take the beer a day or so to reach the CC temp as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 When I asked about cold crashing I was recommended to leave the brew a few days after FG then cold crash for a few days to a week at 2C. My fridge didn't quite get down that far but it was close enough (hovered around 3-4). My next brew I'm going to try something a little different. I'll leave it at ferment temp for 12-13 days' date=' then cold crash for another 7-8 days before bottling. It will take the beer a day or so to reach the CC temp as well. [/quote'] It sounds like you followed my advice on crash chilling, That's brave [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 [lol] Well I daresay it worked pretty well. I have about 8 or 9 clear bottles; I use one per batch to see the color of the beer, and also I normally leave them out to gauge how quickly it clears up. Anyway this one has been in the bottle since Sunday arvo, so effectively 3\xbd days and it's already practically clear. It started clearing almost as soon as it was bottled too. I just don't know if it's random coincidence or whether the CCing had an effect on this.[innocent] [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamH1525226084 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Make sure it has had a few days to clean up after hitting FG. Then drop the temp down as far as you can go. I usually set it at 2 degrees but it depends on your fridge. Chill it for a minimum of three days but the longer the better. My usual routine for an ale is: Brew on the weekend After about 9-10 days I drop the temp (probably on the next Tuesday) Bottle on the weekend (assuming I am not lazy and it sits there for another week) It usually is in primary for 14-16 days before bottling. I was taught this method by Hairy, and all my beers are lovely and clear now [biggrin] I crashed a Belgian Wit that I made for only a few days as that style is cloudy, but normally I chill for a week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussellB5 Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 So i have an IPA in the FV with 40g in 4 tea balls. its ready to bottle and i am keen to get a stout on as soon as possible but i hvae a fridge i can cold crash in. should i wait the few days and cold crash the IPA, give it until sunday in the fridge at 4 or 5 degrees??? i dont want to rack or anything to clear the fv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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