Coopers Malt Lager

[Brew Bro]

Hi Everyone

Happy New Year to all my brewing friends

I have just put down my third ever brew, enjoying the journey but still learning. I have put down the Coopers lager extract with BE1 & LDM packs to try a malt lager with full flavours. My OG reading was 1042 on 25/12. I have taken another reading today 31/12, strange thing my hydrometer read 1012, but after leaving it in the wort for a few minutes the hydrometer kept rising  in the testing tube to rest at 1042? I am assuming it is too early to bottle, but I’m surprised at the high reading? I am assuming it is because I have used the BE1 & LDM packs together with the Lager liquid extract kit? I am using the 23 litre Coopers DIY home brew kit . Do most of you who use the LDM packs leave the BE out when brewing or do you use both for making more maltier brews?

Cheers

 

 

[Malter White]

Happy new year, Brew Bro.
This does sound odd. If your hydrometer is in the test tube for longer you'd expect the reading to go down not up because bubbles settle out. The bubbles can float the hydrometer a little and give a reading that's a little off. Give the hydrometer a twirl to shake off any bubbles but I'm still baffled on why the reading went higher rather than lower.
Also, did you draw off a small portion of wort and discard it (50 ml is enough) before taking your sample? Sediment can sit in the tap and give false readings if you don't.

Edited December 30, 2020 by MUZZY

[Journeyman]

16 minutes ago, Brew Bro said:

but after leaving it in the wort for a few minutes the hydrometer kept rising  in the testing tube to rest at 1042

I think best bet is the brew is still fermenting, so bubbles are forming in the tube and pushing the hydro up.

Try giving it a spin and see if it settles again.

[Brew Bro]

2 hours ago, MUZZY said:

Happy new year, Brew Bro.
This does sound odd. If your hydrometer is in the test tube for longer you'd expect the reading to go down not up because bubbles settle out. The bubbles can float the hydrometer a little and give a reading that's a little off. Give the hydrometer a twirl to shake off any bubbles but I'm still baffled on why the reading went higher rather than lower.
Also, did you draw off a small portion of wort and discard it (50 ml is enough) before taking your sample? Sediment can sit in the tap and give false readings if you don't.

Thanks Muzzy

just did a second test for the FG I did draw off a small amount before filling the testing tube again, the reading was 1011 approx, I might test again tomorrow will be my NY’s brew

My last brew was the Coopers Pale ale with BE2 tasted great after 5 weeks in the bottles, I did a blind taste with the commercial Coopers Pale, tasted very similar so was happy with the result

[Brew Bro]

2 hours ago, Journeyman said:

I think best bet is the brew is still fermenting, so bubbles are forming in the tube and pushing the hydro up.

Try giving it a spin and see if it settles again.

Might test again tomorrow to get a final FG, just tested again with a reading of 1011

[lynchman]

On 12/31/2020 at 11:25 AM, Brew Bro said:

Might test again tomorrow to get a final FG, just tested again with a reading of 1011

Hey Brew Bro.  My Coopers Aussie Pale has been in FV for 7 days at 22deg. took first SG reading today and it sunk to bottom but rose quickly as bubbles formed on the stick. i discarded first sample and tried again with similar result. I'm new to this but assume it needs a few more days in FV if it's still bubbly active??

[iBooz2]

6 minutes ago, lynchman said:

Hey Brew Bro.  My Coopers Aussie Pale has been in FV for 7 days at 22deg. took first SG reading today and it sunk to bottom but rose quickly as bubbles formed on the stick. i discarded first sample and tried again with similar result. I'm new to this but assume it needs a few more days in FV if it's still bubbly active??

If there are bubbles or foam yes brew probably still fermenting but don't discard this sample.  Leave the full test tube with hydrometer in it sit next to your FV for a couple of hours or days if you must and use it to monitor the progress.

After a couple of hours you can spin the hydrometer in the test tube to shed it of bubbles and should be able to take a reading.  If still bubbles forming or foam then just let test sample sit there for days or until no bubbles or foam and the hydrometer reading drops to same number for two consecutive days and that will tell you "your brew is now ready to bottle".

Cheers - AL

[lynchman]

Thanks AL. That's good advice. I'll do that. I see that some brewers do a 2-3 day cold crash on the pale when it's ready to to clear it up a bit. I've not got much against a murky beer but I might give this a crack?

[iBooz2]

@lynchman Yes if you have temp controlled FV fridge / freezer a cold crash is the way to go.  Once FG is reached drop it down 5 C or so per day until it gets to 2 C and hold it there for 2 - 3 days then bottle.  I cold crash most of my beers for 7 days but you may not want to do it for that long for a pale (see below tip).

TIP:   Arh yeah don't discard or drink that sample because if its also left next to the FV during the whole cold crash period then it will also tell you how clear your beer is getting.  Just so you don"t get temped to lift the lid and peek.  Makes maximum use of you resources (more bang for your brew $).  Once its cleared enough to your liking, sure take a sniff of it and then drink the bugger, at least it will be cold.

If no "off" smells or tastes, bottle up bloke and get stuck into making the next batch.

Cheers - AL

Edited January 13, 2021 by iBooz2

[jamiek86]

2 hours ago, iBooz2 said:

@lynchman Yes if you have temp controlled FV fridge / freezer a cold crash is the way to go.  Once FG is reached drop it down 5 C or so per day until it gets to 2 C and hold it there for 2 - 3 days then bottle.  I cold crash most of my beers for 7 days but you may not want to do it for that long for a pale (see below tip).

what's wrong with setting it on 1 degrees and letting it get cold fast?

[Hairy]

1 hour ago, jamiek86 said:

what's wrong with setting it on 1 degrees and letting it get cold fast?

That’s what I do. It still takes a while to get down that low though.

[iBooz2]

1 hour ago, jamiek86 said:

what's wrong with setting it on 1 degrees and letting it get cold fast?

Nothing at all for a pale but a lager needs some TLC to do right.

Nothing at all if you have a spare backup fridge or know a good fridgie as the compressor will be working its balls off due to the thermal mass it needs to cool down.  I prefer to give my fridge compressor a bit of a rest for a good job done getting it down thus far.  Particularly in summer months.  Intermittent compressor workload "on for a bit then off for a bit" is a happy compressor.

Up to you.  Look after your gear and it will look after you.

Cheers - AL

[jamiek86]

46 minutes ago, iBooz2 said:

Nothing at all for a pale but a lager needs some TLC to do right.

Nothing at all if you have a spare backup fridge or know a good fridgie as the compressor will be working its balls off due to the thermal mass it needs to cool down.  I prefer to give my fridge compressor a bit of a rest for a good job done getting it down thus far.  Particularly in summer months.  Intermittent compressor workload "on for a bit then off for a bit" is a happy compressor.

Up to you.  Look after your gear and it will look after you.

Cheers - AL

no worries was just wondering if people do this for a reason to do with the beer it's self and effect on it. I've got a trusty old beast of a brew fridge and work with a bloke who fixes them on side so it crapping itself not really a concern. Thanks for advise