dalet3 Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 Have just got all my brewing stuff together & want to add cascade hops to my brew. I have seen someone on youtube who cooks them from that start & others say to dry hop at a later stage. Can anyone tell me how i will get the most flavour from the pellets? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 Flavour is normally extracted by boiling the hops in 1040 (specific gravity) wort for about 10-20 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalet3 Posted November 22, 2012 Author Share Posted November 22, 2012 Thanks for getting back to me Kelsey. I'll be honest, i brand new to brewing & dont reallty know what that means? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 No problems mate. All good, in simple terms what you want to do is boil the hops in water mixed with malt extract (wort). Light Dry Malt is the easiest because it's powder and easy to measure. To achieve 1040 wort, add 100g of LDM for every litre of water you use, for example, boil the hops in 3 litres of water mixed with 300g of LDM for 15 minutes. Then strain this into the FV and mix in the rest of the ingredients as you normally would. I hope that makes sense! [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamH1525226084 Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 You can also use this chart as a guide for your hop usage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 I suggest that if you haven't done many brews then just dry hop with 20g first and see if you like that result. Dry hopping will also provide a little flavor. It will still improve your beer and you will get a chance to see what the difference is for when you do start a boil. You really shouldn't worry about stuffing around with gravity readings, timing of hop additions, cooling the wort, DMS etc until you get the basic process down first. Then at least if something goes wrong it will be a lot easier to assess where you may have gone wrong. Having said this though, there is nothing like jumping in at the deep end. Just need to ensure you keep your head above water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 ...there is nothing like jumping in at the deep end. Story of my brewing "career" [lol] Luckily it's all worked out well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamH1525226084 Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 +1 to what Bill said aboot dry hopping. Also, flavour is like 80% from smell anyways [kissing] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 Hi guys. I agree with what BillK said too. Seldom does anyone acknowledge that any flavour attributes come from dry hopping. BillK, would you dry hop a lager that you wanted high clarity in, or in preference, to produce better clarity would you throw the same quantity (or more) at flame-out of your hop boil? (Sorry if I've asked you this before. I think I'm suffering from Amnesia & Deja Vu at the same time!) [tongue] At times from what I'm reading, I interpret it as overkill to a point of hop wastage to do both in the one brew. I am truly interested in the discussion on the effectiveness of the flame-out addition vs the dry hop addition. What I have posed is only a personal viewpoint. Certainly not one of fact. For someone who likes hop flavour in their beer, I would certainly like to be as efficient as I can with my usage. This area is the only grey area I have no definitive knowledge on, having used both methods. Given all the discussion lately about the drop-off of hop flavour/aroma of beer after a certain time, I would rather bung more hops at one of these two stages if I knew flavour/aroma longevity was more beneficial via one over the other. What do you guys think? All thoughts welcomed. Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalet3 Posted November 22, 2012 Author Share Posted November 22, 2012 Thanks for the replies. Sorry to sound stupid but... Just to confirm, when dry hopping - I add the hops once the fermentation is complete & leave untill the pellets settle? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 You can the hops at any time so long as they are in the FV for a few days. Some people add them at the start. I add them around the 3-4 day mark and they stay in the FV until I bottle 1.5 weeks later (or longer if I am lazy). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Thanks for the replies. Sorry to sound stupid but... Just to confirm, when dry hopping - I add the hops once the fermentation is complete & leave untill the pellets settle? Cheers Dry hopping is usually anytime before moving to secondary. As Hairy said, the common days are either at the start or about day 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Hi guys. I agree with what BillK said too. Seldom does anyone acknowledge that any flavour attributes come from dry hopping. BillK, would you dry hop a lager that you wanted high clarity in, or in preference, to produce better clarity would you throw the same quantity (or more) at flame-out of your hop boil? (Sorry if I've asked you this before. I think I'm suffering from Amnesia & Deja Vu at the same time!) [tongue] At times from what I'm reading, I interpret it as overkill to a point of hop wastage to do both in the one brew. I am truly interested in the discussion on the effectiveness of the flame-out addition vs the dry hop addition. What I have posed is only a personal viewpoint. Certainly not one of fact. For someone who likes hop flavour in their beer, I would certainly like to be as efficient as I can with my usage. This area is the only grey area I have no definitive knowledge on, having used both methods. Given all the discussion lately about the drop-off of hop flavour/aroma of beer after a certain time, I would rather bung more hops at one of these two stages if I knew flavour/aroma longevity was more beneficial via one over the other. What do you guys think? All thoughts welcomed. Anthony. Getting a bit off topic here Beerlust. Nevertheless, I don't really dry hop lagers. However, if I were then I still would regardless if I wanted clarity or not and my regular practices would change slightly as well. Putting hops in at flame out or during fermentation is 2 different purposes. I would be doing as a recipe indicates. i.e. "x" amount hops at flameout of "x" amount dry regardless of clarity expectations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalet3 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Taken all advise on board & started my 1st brew this weekend. I boiled some at the start & will dry hop in a few days. Anyone know how much sugar should i put in a 330ml bottle to condition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalet3 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Also the brew seems to have stopped bubbling but all the stuff on top has not settled, is this normal at this stage 2/3 days in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 If you're referring to the airlock not bubbling - ignore it. It is not an indicator of fermentation. I've been brewing nearly a year and although I still use a lid and airlock, the thing has yet to bubble on any brew except a rather volcanic dark ale. The "stuff" on top is more than likely the krausen, it's normal for it to still be there 2/3 days in, some krausens stay there 5 or 6 days. Use your hydrometer to check fermentation progress. My advice would be to leave it until day 7 before you take a reading. Take another reading on day 8 or day 9, if the two readings are the same then fermentation has finished. I'd then leave it in the FV another week before bottling to allow it to clear a bit and the yeast to clean up a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalet3 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Thanks Kelsey, thats has put my mind at rest! Before i dry hop, should i wait until the krausen has subsided? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 If it has been 3 days already then I would just dry hop now. If you use a yeast like US-05 then you could be waiting weeks for the krausen to go down. That stuff hangs around for ages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalet3 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Thanks Hairy, should i mix it all about? I'm worried that the hop pellets will just sit on top of the krausen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I don't mix it. Just drop it in and it will work its way down as they get wet. Are you throwing them in loose or in a bag? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalet3 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Was going to throw them in loose? is that right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 It's a personal preference, some people throw them in loose, some use a bag, some wrap them in chux cloth. I think the only real issue with throwing them in loose is that people have reported the hop matter blocking up their bottlers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I think the only real issue with throwing them in loose is that people have reported the hop matter blocking up their bottlers. ...and covering the wall of their FV after bottling! [pinched] Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wal Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 It's a personal preference' date=' some people throw them in loose, some use a bag, some wrap them in chux cloth. I think the only real issue with throwing them in loose is that people have reported the hop matter blocking up their bottlers. [/quote'] Damn it - I was about to post here as well, but you beat me again!!! [crying] . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 It's a personal preference' date=' some people throw them in loose, some use a bag, some wrap them in chux cloth. I think the only real issue with throwing them in loose is that people have reported the hop matter blocking up their bottlers. [/quote'] Damn it - I was about to post here as well, but you beat me again!!! [crying] . Um... You did post here [unsure] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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