Bulk Priming amounts

[davids47]

Just found this on a site and wanted to know what you thought of there amounts of sugar to bulk prime with

 

 

You can use the bulk priming method to gas up your beer true to the style that you are making, eg: A British Ale or Oz Beers. This form of bulk priming is easier to control the amount of sugar added to the beer to produce the required carbonation. The required amount of priming sugar is added to the fermenter, after the beer has been racked to remove the unwanted sediment, in grams per litre. The following is a basic list of some styles of beer and the amount of sugar to add so that you achieve the required amount of gas in your beer.

 

The benefits of bulk priming are:

- You can be certain that all of your bottles are primed with the appropriate amount of sugar - this is great for all the varied bottles around at the moment ie. 700, 750 and 800ml long necks and 330, 345 and 375ml stubbies.

- You can choose the type of sugar to prime with ie. malt, dextrose or honey.

- Priming is more accurate by weight than measure.

- You avoid the frothing that can occur when bottling.

 

English Ales:- 2.5-3g/L or 62.5-75g/25L

 

Stout:- 4.2-4.7g/L or105-117.5g/25L

 

Australian Beers:- 7.2-8g/L or 180-200g/25L

 

European Lager:- 5.5-6g/L or137.5-150g/25L

 

Cider:- 10-15g/L or 250-375g/25L

 

NOTE ... Champagne:- 20-24g/L or 500-600g/25L

 

One thing to do during this priming process is to make sure you keep stirring the beer to make sure you keep the sugar mixed thoroughly.

 

Method - Dissolve the required sugar in 100ml boiling water and put in a sterilised fermenter. Run the finished, clear beer into the barrel and proceed with bottling. As it is a measured dose, it will carbonate the beer evenly so you can use any size bottle you like.

 

 

[Guest]

Bulk Priming Calculator

 

one thing that is important to dial in is the temperature the brew got to. A different amount of priming will be required, not only for style, but for the same beer fermented at 17'c or 20'c.

 

Yob

 

*ed: added style volumes

 

American Amber Ale\tAle\t2.3-2.8 vols

American Barleywine\tAle\t1.8-2.5 vols

American Brown Ale\tAle\t2.0-2.6 vols

American IPA\t Ale\t2.2-2.7 vols

American Pale Ale\tAle\t2.3-2.8 vols

American Stout\t Ale\t2.3-2.9 vols

Belgian Blond Ale\tAle\t2.2-2.8 vols

Belgian Dark Strong Ale\tAle\t2.3-2.9 vols

Belgian Dubbel\t Ale\t2.3-2.9 vols

Belgian Golden Strong Ale\tAle\t2.3-2.9 vols

Belgian Pale Ale\tAle\t2.1-2.7 vols

Belgian Specialty Ale\tAle\t2.1-2.9 vols

Belgian Tripel\t Ale\t2.4-3.0 vols

Berliner Weiss\t Ale\t2.4-2.9 vols

Biere de Garde\t Ale\t2.3-2.9 vols

Blonde Ale\t Ale\t2.4-2.8 vols

Brown Porter\t Ale\t1.8-2.5 vols

Dry Stout\t Ale\t1.8-2.5 vols

Dunkelweizen\t Ale\t2.5-2.9 vols

Dusseldorf Altbier\tAle\t2.1-3.1 vols

English Barleywine\tAle\t1.6-2.5 vols

English IPA\t Ale\t2.2-2.7 vols

Extra Special/Strong Bitter (English Pale Ale)\tAle\t1.5-2.4 vols

Flanders Brown Ale/Oud Bruin\tAle\t2.2-2.8 vols

Flanders Red Ale\tAle\t2.2-2.7 vols

Foreign Extra Stout\tAle\t2.0-2.6 vols

Fruit Lambic\t Ale\t2.4-3.1 vols

Gueuze\t Ale\t2.4-3.1 vols

Imperial IPA\t Ale\t2.2-2.7 vols

Imperial Stout\t Ale\t1.8-2.6 vols

Irish Red Ale\t Ale\t2.1-2.6 vols

Kolsch\t Ale\t2.4-2.8 vols

Mild\t Ale\t1.3-2.3 vols

Northern English Brown Ale\tAle\t2.2-2.7 vols

Oatmeal Stout\t Ale\t1.9-2.5 vols

Old Ale\t Ale\t1.8-2.5 vols

Robust Porter\t Ale\t1.8-2.5 vols

Roggenbier (German Rye Beer)\tAle\t2.5-2.9 vols

Saison\t Ale\t2.3-2.9 vols

Scottish Export 80/-\tAle\t1.5-2.3 vols

Scottish Heavy 70/-\tAle\t1.5-2.3 vols

Scottish Light 60/-\tAle\t1.5-2.3 vols

Southern English Brown Ale\tAle\t1.3-2.3 vols

Special/Best/Premium Bitter\tAle\t0.8-2.1 vols

Standard/Ordinary Bitter\tAle\t0.8-2.2 vols

Straight (Unblended) Lambic\tAle\t1.8-2.6 vols

Strong Scotch Ale\tAle\t1.6-2.4 vols

Sweet Stout\t Ale\t2.0-2.4 vols

Weizen/Weissbier\tAle\t2.5-2.9 vols

Weizenbock\t Ale\t2.4-2.9 vols

Bohemian Pilsner\tLager\t2.3-2.6 vols

Classic American Pilsner\tLager\t2.5-2.7 vols

Classic Rauchbier\tLager\t2.4-2.8 vols

Dark American Lager\tLager\t2.5-2.9 vols

Doppelbock\t Lager\t2.3-2.6 vols

Dortmunder Export\tLager\t2.4-2.7 vols

Eisbock\t Lager\t2.2-2.6 vols

German Pilsner (Pils)\tLager\t2.4-2.8 vols

Lite American Lager\tLager\t2.5-2.8 vols

Mailbock/Helles Bock\tLager\t2.2-2.7 vols

Munich Dunkel\t Lager\t2.2-2.7 vols

Munich Helles\t Lager\t2.3-2.7 vols

Oktoberfest/Marzen\tLager\t2.5-2.8 vols

Premium American Lager\tLager\t2.5-2.8 vols

Schwarzbier (Black Beer)Lager\t2.2-2.7 vols

Standard American Lager\tLager\t2.5-2.8 vols

Traditional Bock\tLager\t2.2-2.7 vols

Vienna Lager\t Lager\t2.4-2.6 vols

[LordEoin]

wow, that's thorough..

I generally just stick to 8g/liter for fizzy beer, 6g/liter for stout or less fizzy beer.

half it if kegging.

[Guest]

I actually got down to 100g per 23lt batch before bringing my std priming amount up to 5.4g p/l (125g)

 

but now I just adjust to 12 psi [ninja]

[Muddy Waters]

My standard these days would be 125g for a 23L batch as I generally make American Pale Ales. I have commented in the past that Yob primed at what I considered too low a rate....but of course he was right all along [innocent]

[Guest]

thats funny that we both ended up on 125g [rightful]

 

and of course, at the time Muddy you were right, 100g is just that little bit too light [biggrin]

[DylanI]

Hey David

 

As for stirring...

 

I tap my beer from one fermenter to another when bottling (leaving the trub behind). Tap the beer onto the sugary (boiled) water. I also give it a quick stir to make sure it's well mixed. After this, you've got diffusion doing the rest of the work, so no need to continually stir. It probably helps to wait for 10 mins or so to be sure it's well mixed (wash some bottles while you wait).

 

If you do it in a single fermentor, tip the sugary water mix on top of your beer and give it a good stir (while trying to keep the trub undisturbed). It is then best to wait 10 mins or so before bottling to let the sugar diffuse evenly.

 

Bulk priming is the go. For boffins, you can match the style you're aiming for more closely (e.g. see posts above). For everyone, it's easier than individually priming bottles.

 

-Dyl

[Muddy Waters]

Bulk priming is the go.

 

Couldn't agree more about bulk priming however I would approach stirring with a high degree caution. You really wont to get the beer from fermentor to bottle with a minimal amount of splashing. I use the tap to tap method to transfer from my fermentor to my bulk priming vessel. The sugar solution should be added first and then and beer and sugar will mix on it's own while transferring.

 

If you really must stir - "Gently" and "clean" would be 2 words I'd like to use.

 

[DylanI]

Hey Muddy.

 

I was just coming to edit my post to say that I was open to suggestions for improvements... I can't agree more about being clean and gentle by the way.

 

I tap from fermentor (via a hose... obviously) with the hose against the side of the 2nd fermentor. After a while, the end of the (sanitisted inside and out) hose is submerged.

 

Just imagining tap to tap, do you get all the beer in, do you ditch the last hosefull, or tip that in once you turned the tap off?

 

-Dyl

[Otto Von Blotto]

I used the tap-to-tap method last brew since I finally got a piece of tubing that goes OVER the taps. It worked really well, even though the flow was more than previously, there wasn't any splashing and it mixed the solution in much better. It did get stuck toward the end though when there was still about a litre of beer left to transfer. How do you combat this issue?

[LordEoin]

i tried tap to tap the first time, and it was a disaster.

when my tap is on the off position it has a little airhole on the outside for some reason, so as soon as i turned on the FV tap i got a fountain of beer across the room from the second tap.

without thinking, i yanked out the hose and it flowed onto the floor.

Then at the end i spilled all the beer in the hose all over the place. [crying]

SWMBO was not impressed...

 

anyway, now i just do it tap>hose>top, through the airlock hole and its all good. [biggrin]

[Muddy Waters]

I've never had the flow stop until the very end Otto. Of course it will need a gentle tilt at the end to get the beer up to the tap hole (just like with bottling). I use a couple of lengths of plastic from an old bottling tube to connect my hose to the taps.

[Otto Von Blotto]

Yeah, I normally tilt it at the end too, just for some reason it sorta got stuck. I'm thinking it's because I didn't tilt it fast enough and the level got too low and it sucked in some air as well which stopped the flow of liquid due to the pressure from the larger mass in the second FV. It was flowing fine until the air got in which leads me to this conclusion. Next time I'll keep an eye on it better and tilt it before that happens and see if that works better. I definitely like the method though, it works a treat!

[Guest]

i tried tap to tap the first time, and it was a disaster.

when my tap is on the off position it has a little airhole on the outside for some reason, so as soon as i turned on the FV tap i got a fountain of beer across the room from the second tap.

without thinking, i yanked out the hose and it flowed onto the floor.

Then at the end i spilled all the beer in the hose all over the place. [crying]

SWMBO was not impressed...

 

anyway, now i just do it tap>hose>top, through the airlock hole and its all good. [biggrin]

Oh dear, what a catastrophe!!...

 

Wow, a use for the airlock.... well the hole for it at least.

[LordEoin]

Wow' date=' a use for the airlock.... well the hole for it at least.[/quote']

 

don't make me go find my airlock poem.

I love my airlocks. [love]

[Guest]

What about another form of airlock??

 

[LordEoin]

That might produce some undesirable esters

[Canadian Eh!L]

[sick]

[Wal]

I have often wondered what people meant when they say that their beer "tastes like ass"..[lol]

[trabfountain]

I Am fermenting Soundawake's Pacific Ale and am also not sure of the amount of sugar to use to bulk prime the 23 liter brew. In the past my kit brews have always been made to 20 liters but been fermented in the mid to high 20's and I have used 8gms per liter as per the instruction on the Coopers cans. I have since found the Bottle and Bulk Priming calculator that says for an ale fermented at 18 degrees with a desired volume of CO2 at 2.4 the amount of sugar to use is 130gms for 23 liters. However according tom PB2 he always uses 8gms/liter. Seeing this is my first serious brew in a temp controlled fridge and using hops for the first time i would like to get it right.

[PhilboBaggins]

G'day Trab.

 

It took me a while to find an amount that I was happy with, now I just use 6g per litre.

 

8g is way too fizzy for me, and with some of my more subtly hopped beers (not many of them [bandit]) I find that over carbed beer drives off much of the flavour and aroma.

 

Having said that, I actually primed one of my more recent beers at 5g per litre and was surprised to find that it still came out a quite nicely carbed beer.

 

I'm going to risk my neck here and say, bugger the style. Carb to the level that YOU enjoy. That's what HB is all about mate. If you're hearing 8g from some and 6g from others, start with 7g per litre (right in the middle) and see how it suits your tastes. Adjust for future brews.

 

I have never calculated for temps, and can't see myself ever doing so, but if you want true precision that is the way to go.

 

Good luck. [happy]

[trabfountain]

Thanks Phil I'll take your advice and try 7g per litre. Also notice you don't calculate for temps and are obviously happy with your brews so that's good enough for me.

 

Cheers

[PhilboBaggins]

VERY happy with 6g per litre. Still nice amount of fizz and head, but no longer have the ability to belch the national anthem with every swig. [lol] [innocent]