Lord Of The Dans Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Quick question for all you Gurus... If I'm dry hopping, will cold conditioning remove the hop detritus from the wort along with the yeast? Or does it stay suspended? If it does stay suspended, will finings help clear it up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kearnage Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Wrap your hops in a chux and it's not an issue! Works a treat. Finings to me (there will be differing opinions, particularly from our North American friends) are an absolute last resort. Why put fish bladders and abattoir leftovers in your beer if you don't have to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Ive always found cold conditioning to be sufficient, 6-7 days sub 4'c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Of The Dans Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 So chux or no chux? When I tried cold conditioning last time, I almost froze the wort. Not going to worry with finings, don't really see the point. Who cares what it looks like if it tastes good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 chux hopping is for pussies [lol] Ive tried it and is more trouble than it's worth IMO... if you can CC then there is no need. Man up and throw em in [roll] Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Of The Dans Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 That's what I like to hear! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 lol Yob. You may have a different opinion when you start kegging and the hops start clogging your poppets. Chux is good for me, but I have my valid reasons [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Meow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 [pinched] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 kittens are infecting this forum too? This topic has no relevance to airlocks[roll] @Bill - Even when I do start to keg I will probably still CC in the FV so when racking off will get VERY little floating matter... well thats my plan ATM but is, of course, subject to change [cool] Still reading about kegging... the research continues Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 chux hopping is for pussies [lol] Man up and throw em in [roll] Yob I'm with you on this one, Yob![cool] [bandit] Try racking to a second(ary) FV It seems to lose the Floaties![devil] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Of The Dans Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Racking to secondary?? Geez, next thing you'll be telling me to get a temp controller too..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisK Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 My brew fridge only gets down to about 11 degrees (fine for lagers, not good for chilling beer, which is why it became the brew fridge in the first place). Is cold conditioning at 11 (I brew at 17.5, almost always with US05 or a liquid equivalent) of any value or is it not cold enough to make the yeasties go to sleep? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Dat was no kitten dat was Pussie Galore.[love] [love] I'm with Chad, rack them to a secondary 12-14 days will be crystal clear. Do y'all like my 2 new pets?[love] [love] The Pet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 I'd like em more if they were sitting on my Bench and lapping on my Beer [lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisK Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Is cold conditioning at 11 (I brew at 17.5, almost always with US05 or a liquid equivalent) of any value or is it not cold enough to make the yeasties go to sleep? Guys? [innocent] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Hi Chris, Good question! I've been wondering the same thing these days. I think I heard that the temperature should be below 5C.[unsure] I don't use this method because my cold room hover around 5-6C this time of year. Racking it to a secondary FV arguably works as well as CCing. This method works for me to clear up the brew. Remember... There is always more than one way to skin a cat.[alien] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 My brew fridge only gets down to about 11 degrees (fine for lagers, not good for chilling beer, which is why it became the brew fridge in the first place). Is cold conditioning at 11 (I brew at 17.5, almost always with US05 or a liquid equivalent) of any value or is it not cold enough to make the yeasties go to sleep? 11 degrees would be well under to the recommended lowest fermentation temp so I would assume that with highly flocculant yeast it would start to drop. It may take longer to drop out of suspension compared to lower temps. I have never done it though and that was a complete guess [biggrin] Perhaps you could try it with your next brew and see if it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Personally I wouldn't bother, bottle it, it will drop out in the fridge when you go to drink it, the idea is to reduce the sediment and make for a clearer beer, think about it this way, even after a week at 2'c there is still enough yeast to carbonate in suspension. It'll all drop eventually so why bother waiting to bottle if you can't get the right result? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Is cold conditioning at 11 (I brew at 17.5, almost always with US05 or a liquid equivalent) of any value or is it not cold enough to make the yeasties go to sleep? Guys? [innocent] If you can only get to 11C then I would suggest to let it finish fermenting (say about 7 days) then leave it for 2 days then drop it to 11C for another 5 days. It won't quite be the same as getting it down to about 2C but it will certainly help somewhat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damien E1 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 My brew fridge only gets down to about 11 degrees (fine for lagers, not good for chilling beer, which is why it became the brew fridge in the first place). Is cold conditioning at 11 (I brew at 17.5, almost always with US05 or a liquid equivalent) of any value or is it not cold enough to make the yeasties go to sleep? If brewing with an ale yeast it will put them to sleep, not sure if it will clear up like a 2-4 degree condition will though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 not sure if it will clear up like a 2-4 degree condition will though. No Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 If brewing with an ale yeast it will put them to sleep, not sure if it will clear up like a 2-4 degree condition will though. It certainly won't but when the yeast is asleep they will eventually fall to the trub. Not as fast as at 2C but they will get there. Only need to remember that naturally, time and cold will drop things out of suspension. If you want to speed the time up then the lower the temp the better (without freezing) and finings. Otherwise if you can wait and have the patience just leave it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyG4 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 a quick question... why do 'we' cold condition our beers for up to 5-7 days? given the reason that we cold condition, i don't really know what 5-7 days will do what 3 days won't do. mine's been cold conditioning for 4 days, i'm getting a bit impatatient, i really want to bottle tonight so i can put the bottles in the fridge overnight getting them back up to temperature then brew again tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 4 days at CC temps will probably have dropped most, When I harvest yeast I notice that in the fridge it takes about 3-4 days to settle the yeast out into a compact layer, 5-7 days is a 'thorough' time allowance to get it as clear as you can get it. If you are keen to re-brew, bottle them mate, 4 days is minimum in my book but enough time (Just) Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.