Guest Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Hey all nothin flash at all to say except that i for the first time brewed an OS REAL ALE with just the can and 1kg of dextrose bottled 30 days ago not a bad drop at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I've been thinking about doing that kit myself. I think the next one I try will be the dark ale, been getting into those types of beers a bit lately, after I do the "Ashes Ale" from the recipe section anyway. I really like how there's a lot of room for trying different things with home brewing. [biggrin] Cheers, Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 yeah all the kits are good enough if brew as per recomended recepie but experementing doesnt hurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brada7 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 [joyful] I just bought two cans today and intend using both together with 40g of Willamette hops into only 18 litres. I like a hearty ale! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Yeah, I was always happy with the kits when I used to brew about 5 or 6 years back. I didn't know about additions then though, but now that I've read some about it I'm keen to try some and see how they turn out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeB Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 If you like the OS Real Ale kit, I recommend you try the "Unreal Ale" recipe in the How To Brew section. It's fantastic! That said, I would not recommend doing it as a lager. It really needs the ale yeast. Oh well, live and learn.....[roll] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 yeah all the kits are good enough if brew as per recomended recepie but experementing doesnt hurt I agree that all the kits are good. However, as to brewing to the recipe, if you are referring to the booklet that comes with the can then I dispute the temps it advises. imo, if brewing with an Ale yeast then 18-20C and not the recommend 21-27C. If brewing with a Lager yeast then 10-13C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I'm with Bill on this one [cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Yeah' date=' I was always happy with the kits when I used to brew about 5 or 6 years back. I didn't know about additions then though, but now that I've read some about it I'm keen to try some and see how they turn out[/quote'] Ive found that all the kits Ive tried are 'good' but with careful selection af spec grains, wheat malt, HOPS and replacing the BE's with an all malt (minimal dex - 300g max) make the cans FANTASTIC, and while thay take a bit longer to do, especially if adding grains, is well worth the effort. If adding spec grains, they can be steeped in cold water overnight, I found this to be great on the brewday as you wake up and half the job is done already [bandit] leaving just the boil and dry ingredients to add. [rightful] Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Back when i had money comin out of my ass used to add extra malt and hops myself. Hopefully things are looking good at my work for a few months i can afford to get a bigger pot and grain bag etc and buy hops and stuff again. Ive been paciently waiting but everycouple of weeks if get a spare 20 or so ive just been putting on standard cheap brews to keep me going and no complaints so far was going to save my OS REAl ALE a bit longer but i have over capbed some bottles only 4 out of 54 stubbies have blown so far so just chucked 18 in fridge to get them cool and drink before can blow. [rightful] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Over carbonated was meant to say and in saying that when i do get more cash im going out to buy a new style DIY kit and start using one fermenter to bulk prime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Yeah, I'll probably look at grains further down the track, my next brew will be my first experiment with hops, so I'll get used to that first I think. I'm also replacing the dextrose with light dry malt. I too use stubbies, those carbonation drops are really handy. I only have enough for one batch at the moment but I've got a couple of mates saving theirs for me as well so shouldn't be too long before I have a decent stockpile :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Back when i had money comin out of my ass used to add extra malt and hops myself. Hopefully things are looking good at my work for a few months i can afford to get a bigger pot and grain bag etc and buy hops and stuff again. Ive been paciently waiting but everycouple of weeks if get a spare 20 or so ive just been putting on standard cheap brews to keep me going and no complaints so far was going to save my OS REAl ALE a bit longer but i have over capbed some bottles only 4 out of 54 stubbies have blown so far so just chucked 18 in fridge to get them cool and drink before can blow. [rightful] $20 for a 19L SS pot from Big W. Well worth the investment imo [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Hey all this isnt about the OS Draught just thought tack on about my INT APA. I used the standard pale ale recepie 1.7KG International Pale Ale Brew Enhancer 2 OG: 1037 FG: 1010 4.11 percent ABV could slightly hight temps at start when yeast was pitched cause it to be a little lower? BE2 said would make it around 4.5 know its close but a little annoying. Still have to bottle it tomorrow morning but 2 days stable readings sat and sunday so i guess im busy tomorrow before work in arvo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Ok so no views PB2 what do you think? i suyppose it really doesnt matter i only just started taking gravity readings again so got me thinking most of my brews werent what i thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 I didn't think you expected an opinion.... afterall, there was no question asked. I'd suggest if you're only just starting then toss the BE2. Add: 1kg LDM 300g Dextrose 20g Cascade(Dry) When you get the basics down pat then start introducing hops on a short boil and steep some grain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 I asked if the slightly hight temps at start of fermentation could have caused lower alcohol but then again it says aprox so guess never right on the dot.Have been brewing for years but only started taking readings again when started this brew because of the heat in summer i know yeast can do funny things with my water tub set up. Well i was going to be bottoling today but now ran out of time to get everything steralised and bottled before work. Bloody car battery dead when went to get Milton non rinse sanitiser. Turns out kid left interior light on was mucking around with it yesterday missus tells me[pinched] great. Time spent mucking around on that now 2 kids to entertain before work looks like a tomorrow job and another day putting in ice blocks[devil] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Kids hey, at least they didn't touch your beer. The hydrometer is usually calibrated at 20 degrees so taking a reading with wort higher than that will affect your reading. It just depends on what the temp was. A few degrees higher won't make much of a difference. 5 degrees higher will probably reduce it by a point. Based on your ingredients the OG should have been around 1040-1042. It may be that the ingredients weren't fully mixed giving you a low reading. You could always test your hydrometer in water at 20 degrees to see if it is out. It should read 1.000 at that temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 well i tested my hydrometer in 24degree water and was on 1.000 or whatever it is dead even at that temp so i took my readings at 24 as well sort of evens out i hope [cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Finished botoling about an hour ago got 24 stubbies and 14 longnecks. I always give it a smell as botolling smelt like a pale ale cant wait to try it. Bloody work changed my shifts again night shift tonight and tomorrow now hopefully a few brews and quiet kids i can have a sleep before work [pouty] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 We suggest to have a smell and taste before bottling [wink] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Yeah i always find smell is best funny how smells like a pale ale straight away but not quite taste like it until matured. I am happy with the standard recepie so far and cant wait to experement a little.[happy] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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