Hoptimus Maximus Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Thanks for the info and link Bill. Still trying to understand if there is any advantage in using an electric urn as opposed to just a single pot and heat source. I would like to play more with BIAB AG and really could do with a larger boil vessel. At the moment I am limited in the size of my batches by the undersized pots SHMBO has. I have been thinking about different options and a 50L pot or 40L electric urn have crossed my mind. Obviously the pot is half the price of the urn and I really cannot think why the urn should make it easier. [unsure] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyW Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Its weird it sat there on 1.023 for 10 minutes' date=' I take a taste sip, and now it is steady at 1.012? Does the volume in the test tube affect the reading?[/quote'] I would bottle it, i dont think there is anything wrong with the brew, i think your taking too many readings that are coming up all over the shop and its confusing you, get a new hydrometer, a decent one for future batches. The drop to 16C isnt going to have any effect on the beer at all. 1: choose to bottle today or 2: leave it sit for 5 days and then bottle you dont need to take anymore reading imho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShakeyD Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 Cheers Tony, I think I'll let it be for another week then do a FG with my new hydrometer that I have ordered then bottle it. I tasted it and I am happy with how its going, just don't want 2.5 slabs of light beer!! Fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Thanks for the info and link Bill. Still trying to understand if there is any advantage in using an electric urn as opposed to just a single pot and heat source. I would like to play more with BIAB AG and really could do with a larger boil vessel. At the moment I am limited in the size of my batches by the undersized pots SHMBO has. I have been thinking about different options and a 50L pot or 40L electric urn have crossed my mind. Obviously the pot is half the price of the urn and I really cannot think why the urn should make it easier. [unsure] You can get a 19L pot from Big W for <$20 and do stove top methods. If you are interested in this let me know and I'll find the link. I went the urn purely because of simplicity. Not having to get an element or burners and gas etc. and less equipment to lug around and ease of cleaning. I have been talking to BribieG and we may have come up with a way to do enough wort for 2 x 19L kegs in one brew session in a 40L urn. It would be a huge bonus if we can do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyW Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Thanks for the info and link Bill. Still trying to understand if there is any advantage in using an electric urn as opposed to just a single pot and heat source. I would like to play more with BIAB AG and really could do with a larger boil vessel. At the moment I am limited in the size of my batches by the undersized pots SHMBO has. I have been thinking about different options and a 50L pot or 40L electric urn have crossed my mind. Obviously the pot is half the price of the urn and I really cannot think why the urn should make it easier. [unsure] You can get a 19L pot from Big W for <$20 and do stove top methods. If you are interested in this let me know and I'll find the link. I went the urn purely because of simplicity. Not having to get an element or burners and gas etc. and less equipment to lug around and ease of cleaning. I have been talking to BribieG and we may have come up with a way to do enough wort for 2 x 19L kegs in one brew session in a 40L urn. It would be a huge bonus if we can do it. Bill i think the stove top is the way to go in the beginning, not alot of outlay and if its becomes too tedious or cant be bothered doing all grain then money is not wasted. If you decide to keep going then buy the urn and use the 19litre pot for soup lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 You can get a 19L pot from Big W for <$20 and do stove top methods. If you are interested in this let me know and I'll find the link. Thanks Bill but we already have both 12L and 16.5L s/s pots now which I have been using for smaller PM BIAB batches quite successfully. I would like to do AG BIAB 20L batches and think I will buy a 40L aluminium pot and put a tap on it and convert a coleman 20L round cooler to a mash tun. The max OG I envisage would be 1.075. I have a decent 50Mj/Hr burner already. Just means moving the brew session from the kitchen to the carport. I will get no resistance from the wife. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 You can get a 19L pot from Big W for <$20 and do stove top methods. If you are interested in this let me know and I'll find the link. Thanks Bill but we already have both 12L and 16.5L s/s pots now which I have been using for smaller PM BIAB batches quite successfully. I would like to do AG BIAB 20L batches and think I will buy a 40L aluminium pot and put a tap on it and convert a coleman 20L round cooler to a mash tun. The max OG I envisage would be 1.075. I have a decent 50Mj/Hr burner already. Just means moving the brew session from the kitchen to the carport. I will get no resistance from the wife. Doing a maxi-BIAB with the right technique you could almost get 18L from 16.5L pot. This is an estimate as I haven't done the sums, but it is almost doable. BIAB's don't require a mash tun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 I forgot to mention here is a link to another site you may or may not have come across yet. A lot of resourceful information here for BIAB. BIABREWER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Doing a maxi-BIAB with the right technique you could almost get 18L from 16.5L pot. This is an estimate as I haven't done the sums, but it is almost doable. BIAB's don't require a mash tun. Thanks for that link Bill and I take on board what you say. I want to get a larger pot to do larger batches, have some headroom and be able to maintain a better rolling boil without worrying about a boil over. I have had a little bit of a problem holding a steady temperature during mash in a stockpot on the stove and think the cooler whilst a bit more effort would help me keep mash at a steady temperature. I would not worry about a filter in the bottom of the cooler just rely on the bag. I would sparge in the cooler also. I am also addicted to collecting more toys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 lol yeah I like collecting more toys too. No doubt you are wrapping your pot up in a sleeping bag or something to lag it?.... you could even pick up a ski jacket from op shops or vinnies etc. You should only lose up to about 2C temp max in the hour. It sounds like you are getting sorted with your gear. Hope all turns out for you. [w00t] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 I forgot to ask.... I assume you know how to stop boil overs with a water spray bottle?.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 I forgot to ask.... I assume you know how to stop boil overs with a water spray bottle?.... Yes but I just hate having the pot so full that I have to watch it so carefully. I had not bothered with insulating the pot last couple of times and actually used the element on lowest setting to help maintain temperature. I also like the idea of a tap on the cooler to drain the mash and sparge and a tap on the kettle. I realize taps are not necessary but they just appeal to me. Get the whole show out of the kitchen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShakeyD Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 G'day Shakey [biggrin] For your hydrometer samples it is sometimes a good idea to leave it for a while (go and have a shower or something) and then come and check your reading later (after 30mins +). You mention an immersible heater - I'd steer clear of these as they will stress the yeast no end and increase the risk of infection. What you want is ambient heat - not direct heat (I use a light bulb in a ceramic pot to heat my brewing fridge if necessary). Using a temp controller in conjunction with a brewing fridge is great. Set your temp and the controller will switch on the fridge or heat source to keep it within you desired temp range. Just set and forget [cool] The thermometer on your fermentor is read by reading the mid point of the coloured bits - sounds like yours was about 16C. For ease of use I'd have a look at one of these LCD Digital Thermometers on ebay. They're pretty good and fairly accurate (and they're dirt cheap [lol] ). Can you use these thermometers in liquid? just wondering if I can put the probe of this thing in my test tube samples? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyW Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 You tape the probe to the side of the FV under a small piece of say polystyrene insulation is the way i would do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShakeyD Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 hmmm I was hoping to use it to test that the sample in the hydrometer tube is at the right temp before testing? I already have the thermometer on the side of the fermenter. I read the sample needs to be at 68 F is this right or the same as the fermenter temp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 For a correct reading the sample needs to be 20C or you can use a calculator to adjust the reading at the temp it is at. However, most people are not that worried as at room temp it wouldn't make much difference anyway. No idea about Fahrenheit, we use Celsius here. Yes those thermometers can be submersed in water. However, they are a bit of a hit and miss. i.e. sometimes you will get an accurate reading, most are unlikely though but will give an approximate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShakeyD Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Used my new hydrometer OG was 1.035 and FG is 1.015. Pretty disappointed as that only gives be am ABV of 3.18 does it get any higher after the bottling stage? would 3 carbonation tabs in each long neck help or is that my final product? It has been 2 weeks now, would all possible fermenting be done or could I achieve more be upping the heat with a heat pad to say 22 Degrees for another few days? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Shakey, I'm not sure what ingredients you used but if it was the lager kit and BE1 at 23 litres, then I would have thought your OG would be a little higher. Maybe 1.040 give or take a bit. Perhaps it wasn't mixed/dissolved fully and gave you a lower reading than it actually was. No dramas though; it will still ferment properly. Bottling with 2 carb drops will give you an extra 0.5% alcohol but this is a by-product of the carbonation of the beer. Priming shouldn't be used to purely increase alcohol, that is done in the primary fermentation stage. Adding 3 drops may over-carbonate your bottles resulting in potential bottle bombs. The level of priming should be based on the style of beer you are making and in your case, the 2 drops should be sufficient. An FG of 1.015 is probably about it. You could try leaving it an extra couple of days (it never hurts) but it may not get any lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Earlier this year I did a TC Heritage Lager as per standard recipe and it had OG of 1045 and FG of 1010 which gave an ABV of 4.59%. Had it in primary for 5 weeks at 14\xb0C. Was a nice drop and will do again. Understand you may have done a different recipe/kit. Would definitely not over prime the bottles to try to boost the ABV. You might lift something else besides the ABV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShakeyD Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Thank you both for you quick replies, I just received a heat pad of ebay, I might try to raise the temp from 18 to 22 or so for 2 more days then bottle. It already tastes really good. Just wondering if my OG was out, as I did it after the footy and a few beers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyW Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Mine fermented perfect at 18C from 1040 og down to 1012, you did say your hydrometer was bent and i noticed my hydrometer the coopers one underdone me by a few points. Raising the heat is not going t oaccomplish much at all this late in the game, i actually have mine off as it sits until Saturday cold hopping. My gut feeling is your brew is done, i would bottle it say the end of the week and then get my next brew going wit more fermentables in it. There is not alot of fermentables in that kit you are going to max out at say 4%. Dont overprime the bottles or you will regret it, 2 drops to those 740's is plenty. The old saying you wont get a silk purse out of a sows ear applies to the kit brew you have just done. If you havent already done it start planning your next brew, mines the Vintage ale and i will start after bottling on Saturday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenP13 Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 I am doing this same brew and I started it last Thursday night. OG was 1040 and took a sample on Sunday and it was down at 1017. I will take another sample tonight as I think it is nearly done, and if it is the same tomorrow then I will bottle it on Thursday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Ben - your beer will taste better if you don't rush to bottle it. 2 weeks in the fermentor is a good rule of thumb for ales. Patience will reward you with better beer [cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Ben - your beer will taste better if you don't rush to bottle it. 2 weeks in the fermentor is a good rule of thumb for ales. Patience will reward you with better beer [cool] Take Muddy's advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyW Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 I am doing this same brew and I started it last Thursday night. OG was 1040 and took a sample on Sunday and it was down at 1017. I will take another sample tonight as I think it is nearly done, and if it is the same tomorrow then I will bottle it on Thursday. Ben as mentioned above i would leave it sit a week after fermenting out. Take a FG Thursday another Friday and if they are the same, bottle up a week later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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