BrendanS8 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Hi all, i want to dry hop. Can i throw the hop pellets straight into the fermenter or should i wrap them in a chux cloth? Do the pellets break up? Do the pellets float or sink? Will racking be a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 First off,wait till it reaches FG,since hop oils cling to settling yeast. Then put them in a chux cloth or hop sack (hop sacks here are 39 cents). Then toss it in & re-seal FV. Leave them for a week to ten days. Hop pellets return to the grainy state when whetted,& can be messy & clog things. Or worse,your beer will have floaters. So put them in something the brew can circulate through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 bollox... throw them in after high krausen, maybe 4 days or so into the brew.. depending on how you treat your brews, mostly the hops will settle to the bottom, especially if you cold condition, if you rack out to bulk prime you will most likely get NO floaties, IMO the only reason you need to use a chux cloth is to make yeast washing easier.. or you dont Cold Condition. juts throw em in mate, nothing easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I'm with Yob. I get the odd bottle witha floater but not too often. I throw them in loose after the krausen dies back until bottling day(14-21). Chad PS Tap the side of the FV now and again. It will help the hops settle out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 As Yob said, add them after day 4. However I did have trouble with bottling a few when the FV was nearly empty due to the bottler getting clogged from time to time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I don't agree with the chuck em' in loose brigade [bandit] I find they don't settle out adquately if I add them loose so I like to contain them in a stock bag or chux. You have nothing to lose by containing them but everything to gain (IMO [innocent] ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT5 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Brendan, I think you are going to have to make your own mind up about this one. There seems to be a bit of a discussion here which will never be resolved...(a bit like which is better Holden or Ford) [rightful] Unfortunately I can't help much as my dry hopping experience extends to 1 brew as I have been working my way through the Coopers range to see which I like before tweaking things. Good luck with whichever way you decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I do cold condtion and I rack, I rarely, if ever get a hop flotie, even if a particle did make it through, by the time its conditioned for a few months, sat in the fridge for a few days to a week, whats the likelyhood of it still floating? pretty damn small I should think. Holden all the way baby[innocent] [edit] I bottled one on friday night that had been CC'ing for 4 days, all the yeast had dropped to the bottom but left some hop particles on the surface of the beer, when racking these particles are drawn to the side of the fermenter via surface tension, by the time it got to the bottom the surface was dead clean and I was able to rack almost every drop out... just sayin... based on my observations, with my methods I can almost eliminate floaties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanS8 Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Thanks for the replies fellas, i'll try both methods and see what happens. However i've got another question now.... what is cold conditioning?[unsure] I'm with Yob...Go the lion![biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 However i've got another question now.... what is cold conditioning?[unsure] To keep it simple, when your brew has reached FG drop the temp down to 1C-4C and leave it be for a few days. This makes the beer to cold for the yeast to stay in suspension and most other impurities will all fall to the trub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanS8 Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 So the best thing to do for that is to put the FV into the fridge (after FG)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanS8 Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 I assume there'll be enough yeast for the priming stage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Yeah mate, plenty of yeast and no problems priming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 As Bill has said, no problems for priming, what a good cold condition will do for your beer is 'noticibly' clear them, as a result of the cold temps, 'most' of the yeast in suspension will drop out.. Ive found that my Cold Conditioned bottles end up with far less yeast in the bottom of the bottle and are a good deal clearer than when I did not use this method. I usually (brew permitting) CC from say a sunday night to a friday morning (or whatever day I am to bottle). This gives it enough time to drop and clear, I then rack off to a second tub to bulk prime. I assume that you do not use a fridge to ferment in? If you have a working spare fridge laying about, I suggest you can ferment in that, just by itself, not even turned on you will get more stable temps for your brews. I also leave my beers for a minimum of 4 days sometimes a week, after FG has been reached for the yeast to clean up any unwanted flavours before doing the Cold Condition (CC) Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Yeah mate' date=' plenty of yeast and no problems priming.[/quote'] Yes, there should be sufficent yeast in suspension. However, from time to time, we are contacted by a brewer who has cold conditioned but the brew has not come up with enough fizz in the bottle (secondary), even though secondary ferment temp was above 18C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Ive used the chux method, and is perfectly acceptable... nuthin wrong with it... at the end of the day I got sick of it when I changed my methods to those I outlined. If you do go down the line of racking to bulk prime, then you are leaving 99% of the crap behind in the FV that has settled, (quite firmly) from the Cold Conditioning, taking only the clear beer from on top. From personal experience, I damn near froze one of my beers solid once before I had temp control, it carbed up just fine, maybe took a bit longer but still got there... what would I do if I had a batch that didnt carb up? well... I guess I would make a small starter and get some yeast active then squirt a little into each bottle to introduce some yeast to the bottles, the sugar would still be there right? I wish I knew how to add photo's in this site.. [annoyed] Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanS8 Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 Thanks guys, i don't use a fridge for fermenting, but i should be able to do something about that and give the cold conditioning a go.[biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 be warned, once you start you will never go back... [cool] next thing temp controllers and multiple fridges[love] P.S After reading the OP again I see that you rack, so it seems this is the correct/most logical path for you. As an adendum note, I find that the yeast that drops out when Cold Conditioning forms a nice compack layer OVER the hops that have dropped to the trub meaning that when you rack off the trub practiclly no hops will stir up and transfer, assuming you are gentle with the fermenter. yada yada yada Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 be warned' date=' once you start you will never go back... [cool'] next thing temp controllers and multiple fridges[love] I have to agree 100% with this. I pick up my new freezer tonight which should hold 6+ kegs [love] . This will give me 4 fridges and 4 freezers. Albeit, not all are for brewing but SWMBO is starting to stir so best to lay low for a while now [rightful] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 surprised you need a fridge at all mate given the location and time of year[lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 yeah she has been a bit cold down here for the last week or so. however, it is so nice just to stick something on and punch in the temp and no more hassles. I got the freezer home last night and sized up the keg space for it.... it'll hold 6 kegs + 2 on the hump so I'm wrapped. I could potentially have 10 taps at home then... 8 + 2 current but I probably won't run with that many. Just need to purchase a few things now and build a collar and finish off the STC1000 but it will be a little while now before I get this beast completed. Nevertheless, I might stick down 4 FVs on the weekend so I can get ahead in supply. Hrrmmm come to think of it, I might have to get a few more kegs from Ross when/if he runs his $1 specials again. I only have 5 x 19L, 4 x 9L & 1 x 23L kegs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Wow! 10 taps. I've been to decent size pubs that don't have that many taps (and probably also with worse beer). You're a lucky man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I have to come clean here too... Dry Hopped last night with Chux + 2 Big Marbles However it was mostly flowers not alot of pellets. Dry Hopped 50g Goldings Flowers and 10g Northern Brewer into a 23lt Dark ale (Windsor Yeast). Only 10 kegs Bill? [lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanS8 Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 That sounds very impressive Bill, and i thought i was good with just one tap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corksniffer Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 I'm having a bit of trouble with hop bits getting into my bottling. Can I simply boil the hops and strain into the FV for the same bitterness and aroma? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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