Snags Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Hey all, I am very much considering doing the Pilsener or Heritage Lager. Just a few questions. Do these kits utilise a proper lager yeast, or just the normal ale yeast? Also, do they need to age for a minimum of 12 weeks, as from what I saw in the recipe directions, it only mentioned maturing for a minimum of 2 weeks, which is why I ask about the yeast. Any different spins on the recipes? Paul suggested doing the Pilsener mixed to only 20-21 LTRS with 1kg of LDM. Also, what would be a good description of how the Draught tastes? I haven't tried one, but from what I've read, it sounds like a really nice brew. And what about mixing two cans together for something different? Anyone experimented doing that? [biggrin] Cheers guys, Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty A Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Gday Mick, The Heritage lager uses a blend of lager and ale yeast, while the pilsner uses only lager yeast. I would be assuming that you will need longer in the bottle for the pilsner but as I havent yet finished my pilsner kit I couldn't answer you. I would think that if you were conditioning them at around 20C it would only take 2 weeks to be carbed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Thanks Matt, keep me posted on what you think of it then when it's ready. If it resembles Urquell in any way, I'll be a happy man. I wouldn't say I'm impatient, but 12 weeks is a long while to wait [crying] Haha. I wonder how the Pilsner would work with just the ale yeast then? Or a blend like the Heritage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty1 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Thanks Matt, keep me posted on what you think of it then when it's ready. If it resembles Urquell in any way, I'll be a happy man. I wouldn't say I'm impatient, but 12 weeks is a long while to wait [crying] Haha. I wonder how the Pilsner would work with just the ale yeast then? Or a blend like the Heritage? the first Coopers Pilsener I made, I reckon was BETTER than Urquell! The trick about having patience, is to remove your lack thereof from the equation. i.e. build up your stocks![w00t] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Good point mate. Better than Urquell??? Damn! Did you add anything special to it? Or follow the standard recipe? I'm thinking of adding some extra hops (Saaz) to it myself, if I can find the correct method/amount of doing so. If it's not an unnecessary step?[crying] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty1 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Did you add anything special to it? Or follow the standard recipe? cAN'T quite remember, I'll czech [roll] [pinched] my brew notes and get back to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Haha, righto mate, thanks.[cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Thinking of giving this one a run ; Thomas Coopers Pilsner, 1kg light dry malt (or Light malt/wheat Malt extract?), 250g Dextrose, + Sazz hopp bag. Thoughts? [love] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 I assume you are going to dry hop the Saaz? If you use the kit yeast remember to ferment around lager temps. Personally I'd probably drop the LDM to 500g-750g, maybe even 750g LDM and 500g Dex, nevertheless, it sounds good anyway and you can fine tune it to suit your tastes once you know what it is like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Um, I'm not sure with the hops. I don't really know much about it, other than a mate who I don't talk to anymore used to add extra Saaz to his Pilsner, and it was a really nice drop. I was going to ask one of you guys what would be the best method with the hops? [love] And how much to add. Was going to ferment around 13-15' if that's not too low for the kit yeast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Take a look at my thread "os draught additions" for an idea on hops additions. So far,with US Perl & Czech Saaz additions,it reminds me of a crisp Urquell. From the hydrometer sample at 2 weeks & 3 days,anyway. 3 weeks in the bottle should be great indeed. But look at my recipe for hop ideas. That should help with yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 Thanks mate. [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Hi Snags, I bought two pilsner kits when I was out of town a while back. I just put down my first batch(bubbleing away since Sunday[joyful] ). I did the standard recipe with 500g LDM and 300G dex. The next one I plan change the recipe slightly and dry hop some saaz just to compare. It might be a good idea to try the basic recipe before you make "improvements". Chad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 Yeah Chad, you make a good point. I'm really trying to get a response as to how, and how much Saaz you add. Also, I'm not entirely sure as to the method of dry hopping? If someone could explain the process, and at what point the hops are added, I'd much appreciate it. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 I'm not much of a saaz user but you could dry hop 15g and tweak it next time if you think it needs it. I reckon it is best to make the kit as per instructions first to get a feel for it. Check post 2 HERE for an alternate method for the Pilsener. I generally dry hop at about day 3 of fermentation once the krausen has backed off. Use either use a stock bag to contain my hops or you can use a clean chux wipe straight out of the pack (Check PB2s photos in the linked thread) or you can even use stockings to contain them. Some people say just chuck your hops in as they will drop to the bottom but I haven't had much success with that. Make sure whatever you use is sterile. Just chuck them in a leave them for at least a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 Cheers Muddy. I will be doing a standard brew first as you all suggest, but probably with Paul's spin (20L mix, 1 Kg LDM. . .) I was considering dry hopping either Hersbrucker, Hallertau or Saaz. Maybe a mix of two (maybe 15g of Hersbrucker/15g Saaz??) I was also considering adding a Wheat Malt instead of the LDM, if viable, but I'm really not sure. [crying] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 Checked out Paul's post, but was wondering why the suggestion of adding more yeast as a tweak as opposed to hops? What benefit does this have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 I'm not 100% sure what Paul was thinking but Lagers generally require double the pitching rate of ales. Buy using 2 packs of yeast you could pitch closer to brewing temperature which may affect the final flavour - also, yeast does often add a lot of flavour to the final product depending what strain you use. I really don't reckon the pilsener kit needs more hops myself - Have you tried it as is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 No not yet, but my preference is towards a hoppy, malty, grainy beer, and seeing as I can't find a recipe close to my commercial preference (Zywiec), I think I personally would prefer a more hoppy taste. I'm kind of stumped no one has tried it to be honest.[biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 Just found this in Clone brews, doesn't help me being all grain[crying] Zywiec Beer 6 oz 2.5L German Light Crystal Malt 0.5lb German Munich Malt 6.6lb Ireks light malt syrup Irish Moss 2oz Polishner Lublin (4.5%AA) (60min) 1/4oz Hallertau Hersbrucker (15min) 1/4oz Hallertau Hersbrucker (5min) Yeast: Wyeast 2278 or 2007 Not that it makes any sense to me. Just guessing, but I doubt these recipes would closely resemble the originals anyway. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Snags, Here is an extract version (I think this may be from clone brews too): Zywiec Beer \t Yield: 5 gallons (18.9 L) \t \t Final gravity: 1.012-1.013 \t \t Original gravity: 1.051-1.052 \t \t IBU 32 \t \t 5% alcohol by volume \t Crush and steep in \xbd gallon (1.9 L) 150\xb0L (65.5\xb0C) water for 20 minutes: \t 6 oz. (.17 kg) 2.5\xb0L German light crystal malt \xbd lb. (.23 kg) German Munich malt \t \t\t\t Strain the grain water into your brew pot. Sparge the grains with \xbd gallon (1.9 L) water at 150\xb0F (65.5\xb0C). Add water to the brew pot for 1.5 gallons (5.7 L) total volume. Bring the water to a boil, remove the pot from the stove, and add: \t 6.6 lb. (3 kg) Ireks light malt syrup 4 oz. (113 g) M&F extra-light DME 2 oz. (57 g) Polishner Lublin @ 4.5% AA (9 HBU) (bittering hop) \t \t\t Add water until total volume in the brew pot is 2.5 gallons (9 L). Boil for 45 minutes then add: \t \xbc oz. (7 g) German Hallertau Hersbrucker (flavor hop) 1 tsp. (5 ml) lrish moss \t \t\t Boil for 10 minutes then add: \t \t\t \xbc oz. (7 g) German Hallertau Hersbrucker (aroma hop) \t \t\t Boil for 5 minutes, remove pot from the stove, and cool for 15 minutes. Strain the cooled wort into the primary fermenter and add cold water to obtain 5 gallons (18.9 L). When the wort temperature is under 80\xb0F (26.6\xb0C), pitch your yeast. \t \t\t 1st choice: Wyeast's 2278 Czech Pilsner yeast (Ferment at 40-52\xb0F [4-11\xb0C]) 2nd choice: Wyeast's 2007 Pilsen lager yeast (Ferment at 40-52\xb0F [4-11\xb0C]) \t \t\t Ferment in the primary fermenter 5-7 days or until fermentation slows, then siphon into the secondary fermenter. Bottle when fermentation is complete with: 1\xbd cup (300 ml) M&F extra-light DME \t \t\t Serve in a Pilsner glass at 45\xb0F (7\xb0C). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snags Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 Wow thanks Muddy! Unfortunately that seems a bit beyond my capabilities at the moment. But cheers for that info mate.[love] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 No Worries - I didn't know I had until you mentioned clone brews and then I remembered some of my old files. I reckon you could simplify the recipe a fair bit but retain the hops schedule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swanstar Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Hey Muddy, Have you got any clone recipes for Vintage Ale? In all seriousness I've only just discovered it and I love it, I've got half a case of the real stuff stashed away now but would love to add it to my brew list [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biermoasta Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Hey Muddy, Have you got any clone recipes for Vintage Ale? In all seriousness I've only just discovered it and I love it, I've got half a case of the real stuff stashed away now but would love to add it to my brew list [biggrin] You're in luck! There is a recipe for the Extra Strong Vintage Ale in the 'How to Brew' section, Link: http://www.coopers.com.au/the-brewers-guild/how-to-brew/strong/extra-strong-vintage-ale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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