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Matty A

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  1. Just a quick question to anyone that regularly uses the commercial yeast. I have made 2 batches that are the same except for the yeast. They have both been fermenting for roughly 3 weeks and one is now sitting on 1.011 (the yeast supplied with the kit) and the other one is sitting on 1.020 ( the commercial yeast). Odd thing is that the commercial yeast was actually really active when it started. Does the commercial yeast finish higher the supplied yeast?
  2. Undissolved is probably the wrong word. Not mixed thoroughly is probably a better word. I have heard (on this forum and many others), not experienced (as far as I know) that if the sugar is not mixed correctly it will give a higher reading at the bottom half of the wort compared to the top half. I do however agree that undissolved ingredients will mostly fall to the bottom
  3. This is true unless the sugar that is undissolved gets pushed into the testing tube for the hydrometer. I use the brigalow brewing sugars for my APA because it has got a bit of dextrose in it as well as malt. Probably too much dextrose but I have never had any problems and it gives me a easy going beer that I can shove down the hatch quickly
  4. I am sure a lot of this is because of the processes that are used between the different methods. The normal kit brewer doesn't have the patients, the knowledge or the care to use best practices when making their beer. Some kit brewers I know only use the hot water out of the tap to sanitise their equipment because that's how they have always done it. AG brewers spend a lot more time making brews so if the brew fails it is a larger amount of time invested. This means that they usually go out of their way to have a temperature controlled device, use fresh yeast and best practices. Since I have always taken care when using my kits, such as using fresh stuff, the correct temperature and high grade ingredients I get a better result. It is just the mindset that kit brewers use a kilo of table sugar and ferment at 25C as LordEoin said.
  5. It will teach you a lot about how well you sanitise everything. Eventually your beer will spoil. Clearly the longer it takes the better the sanitation.
  6. I have notices. A lot of new faces. I noticed the forum is still in its old format and the extra pretty colours. I have also noticed Weggl left us Thanks Nick - Took a little while to get working properly tho. I had major issues with the beer getting warm in the tower if you didn't finish the schooner within 5 minutes. I found a good solution for that tho, drink faster
  7. You will not regret it. One of the best moves I have made in brewing. It is a slippery slope Muddy, you will get there get your keg gear and then be walking out the door with a new urn ready to start All-Grain [bandit]
  8. I have been pretty active on this site before but come and go from the site every now and then. Since I am back for a bit I have noticed a few new names so I better introduce myself. My name is Matthew I am 24 years of age and am a Network Admin, similar to Anthony. I have currently been brewing for roughly 2.5 years, I love big beers such as stouts and IPAs. I have been brewing All Grain for roughly 1.5 years. I only have a little 3v setup which didnt cost me a great deal at all but brews the perfect amount for a keg. the SWMBO had a big hand in setting up my system, purchasing little odds and ends when she found them cheap. She also found my whole bar setup which I would spend the whole day if I had the chance. Don't drool too much fellas.[love]
  9. Some of the people over at AHB refuse to change their thoughts on anything tho. I really liked that forum but a few wankers on it wreck it for the whole community. A lot of good information but unfortunately a few people who wreck it for the rest. A Lusty x 10, I think he was just trying to stir the pot a little. BTW the $1.30 it cost me for Homebrand cling wrap isn't a cost that I think will break the bank, especially since I use it for around 60 brews. A good way to test it would be to make 2 separate beers at the same time with the same procedures, bottle most of it and see how long it takes for the batches to go sour. Then decide if it makes a great deal of differance
  10. How does everyone get their grains and hops. I have found people say that it costs bugger all to make a brew, not when I do it. Shipping is a massive killer for me. I know I could get in bulk but that seems expensive as well unless you have people around that will share the buy with you. Just one of the things that has stopped me from completely moving over to All Grain.
  11. I am sure it will turn out fantastic. A lot of it mainly depends on what styles of beers you like. I didn't particularly like the can that came with the kit (not saying it was bad or I stuffed up) bu I didn't enjoy it. My father in law however thought it was one of the better beers. Just remember to keep good records of all these things and if you don't like something then you will have a record of what went wrong. Its a big bag of experiments for you now. Wait till you start steeping hops and having a sip just to find out what flavours they give the beer.
  12. You don't need a lot of equipment at all to make decent beer. I generally do All Grain but I think I spent $20 on my first all grain setup which was a BIAB on the stove in a 20L Big W pot. Cheap, simple and great tasting beer. It is nice to have the shed full of equipment tho [ninja]
  13. I have generally found that I get a sulpher smell when the yeast is stressing. One thing that helped me was to check the use by dates on the cans that I buy and use the one with the longest use by date. I usually now replace all the kit yeasts with other yeasts similar to what Phil does.
  14. Yeah I have noticed that the fermentation of a lager takes a lot longer then an ale. I have even had the beer in the fermenter for up to 3 weeks with it still fermenting. Strangely enough I have never had a large issue with diacetyl either. I think the yeast that I use (Saflager) must be a bit tolerant to it.
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