CarlV1 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Hi all - first time post. Very partial to the hyper-hopped American Pale Ale style beer. Fan of Epic Pale Ale here in NZ. So dropped a toucan of Coopers International Aussie Pale Ale, 50gms of Amarillo and 30gms of Nelson Sauvin. Boiled the hops for 4 mins and then strained into fermenter. Pitched Safale US-05 and brewed around 22deg. Was planning to dry hop another 25gms of Nelson but thought the hop aroma was going well and left it. The results from 2 weeks in bottle are good. Hops strong on the nose. Bitterness is pronounced but appears to be dropping from initial samples. Was expecting more mouth feel but suppose that is not in line with beer style in any case. Think I can still up the hops though - especially with dry hopping. Think I'll do 1 can and 2kg pale malt extract (unhopped) next time. What is the most hops people have added with success? (define success he thinks....) Cheers Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty A Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Welcome to the forums Carl. Sounds like you have brewed before. Your brew sounds great. I have successfully used Cascade hops a few times. I made an Exta Strong Vintage Ale using them instead of Nelson hops and it was marvelous.[love] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Have a Motueka Slam IPA in the FV at the moment, dry hopped with 100g Motueka flowers. The beer before this was an all grain recipe, Clips-Ale 200 - used 200g of green Chinook flowers, picked straight from the bine, at flame-out [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewtownClown Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 At the moment for me it is all about [love] Nelson Sauvin [love] and [love] Centennial [love] Love a pale ale that has been bittered with Centennial and utilised Amarillo for flavour and aroma A lager dry hopped with Nelson Sauvin and bittered with Pride of Ringwood is incredible. Most people spend more time breathing in the aroma than drinking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewtownClown Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 Try 2 x 1.5 Kg cans of cooper's LME 500 grams Dextrose or, for added mouthfeel, use 1 Kg Cooper's BE2 (500 grams dextrose, 250 grams DME, 250 grams maltodextrin) Boil about 300 grams of LME in 3 litres water, add 20g Centennial 30 mins 40g Amarillo 20 mins 40g Amarillo 10 mins Add cold water to make up to 23 litres Nottingham, Windsor, US ale, or Cooper's commercial yeast I have found the two tins and BE2 to be a good neutral base for trying out different hops and specialty grains... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 The recipe above is a winner [love] - I have another batch of it in the fermentor at the moment. Otherwise known as Neill's Centenarillo Ale I highly recommend it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 toucan Canadian blonde 500g honey 42g cascade 2mins 42g cascade dry hopped 15g cooper's kit yeast (starter) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Sounds to me like you're going for an American style IPA. I think of some of the stronger IPA's over here as 10 megaton hop bombs. They're everywhere. Too many craft brewers over here are on a arms race to see who can get more & better hops into a brew. I can't taste the malt at all in many of them. But the Harpoon IPA from Vermont is better than those mega hop bombs. I like balance of buiscotti like malt flavor along with some nice hops that compliment the malt/yeast flavors well. That's an IPA to me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankK1 Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 I made the IPA recipe from this web site under the strong brew section. A little disappointed. I guess I was expecting more of an American IPA. First bottle tastes like Bass Ale. Not too bad, but not what I was expecting. Will definitely be adding more hops to my next batch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Dearest Muddy, Old Mate, these platitudes are in response to help you have given me in the past. Seeing I have now gotten on you right side I am once again seeking advice. What do you reckon about replacing the 2 cans of LME WITH 3.6Kg of DME. You know the difficulty we have in this area in obtaining Coopers LME. The above recipe does not state the type of LME, could be light or amber. Another question, (please excuse my forwardness) I have sought the answer previously on this forum but alas with no luck, do you know \u201cOh wise one\u201d what is the resulting bitterness level when making a 2 can brew. I seems to me that when one uses, say 2 cans of high bitterness in 23 L that the bitterness level must be greatly increased compared to 1 can. I would appreciate your thoughts on this pressing matter. I do not wish to offend anybody by asking you directly, because I am inviting any member who may know, to answer. The reason I went directly to muddy is because he appears to be the King of posters. Weggl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 What do you reckon about replacing the 2 cans of LME WITH 3.6Kg of DME The recipe calls for 3kg Light Malt Extract. 2.5kg of Light Dry Malt would be it's dry equivalent. Should be fine - I've got this recipe brewing again now but am planning on doing one using dry malt for a side by side comparison. I have sought the answer previously on this forum but alas with no luck' date=' do you know \u201cOh wise one\u201d what is the resulting bitterness level when making a 2 can brew. I seems to me that when one uses, say 2 cans of high bitterness in 23 L that the bitterness level must be greatly increased compared to 1 can.[/quote'] This was answered when you brought it up last but maybe the thread dissappeared into the abyss before you saw it. Here is what is said about it in the FAQ section Find the bitterness of the cans you want to use in the Brewing Products section. Add them together if using 2 cans and apply the formula in the quote below To calculate the bitterness of the brew: multiply the quoted product bitterness by the weight of the product (1.7kg)* and divide by the total brew volume (normally 23 litres). * We use the weight because our quoted colour/bitterness figures are based on a weight/volume dilution. Product bitterness x 1.7 / Brew volume = Total bitterness before fermentation As an example, if a brew is made with Mexican Cerveza up to a volume of 23 litres: 270 x 1.7 / 23 = 20 IBU (International Bitterness Units) This figure represents the brew bitterness prior to fermentation. Generally, fermentation reduces colour and bitterness by between 10 to 30%. So final bitterness of the fermented brew may be anything from 14 to 18 IBU. Colour may be calculated in the same way. Ensure to add the colour contribution of all ingredients together. Colour figures are quoted for liquid extract at the time of packaging as these products will darken with time. The darkening process is accelerated by exposure to elevated temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Thank you \u201cOh Wise one\u201d for your reply. I must however differ with you on symbolism; LME stands for Liquid Malt Extract, whereas DME stands for Dried Malt Extract. So if the formula was DME it should have been quoted as LDME, not LME. The stirrer Weggl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 As this is a Coopers site I refer to Coopers products unless noted. Light Malt Exract = LME Amber Malt Extract = AME Dark Malt Extract = DME Wheat Malt Extract = WME Light Dry Malt = LDM [biggrin] All this aside, the recipe most certainly calls for a light malt whatever you want to call it [cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 But Dear Muddy the recipe calls for "2 CANS of LME" have not seen DME in cans![pinched So I reiterate, can one use 3.6 Kg of DME? Also your CENTENARILLO ALE also calls for 2 CANS of LME!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT5 Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 If you are following a recipe with Light Malt Extract in it why would you substitute it with Dark Malt Extract. If you are going to substitute it with a dry product wouldnt you use Light Dry Malt? Muddy already answered in a previous post that 3kg Light Malt Extract is equivalent to 2.5kg Light Dry Malt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Yea Greg, got my conversion back to front 2.5 is correct, but who mentioned DDME? DME stands for Dried Malt Extract. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT5 Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 My apologies Warren, I must have misread Muddy's last post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Are we all on the same page now? [lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Buggered if I know![crying] More confused than ever. Don\u2019t know if I\u2019m using DME, DDME, ADME, LDME, LME, AME, WME WDME, DDT or AGENT ORANGE? Weggl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Agent Orange makes a great breakfast beer (smells like victory) [roll] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 The formula then for bitterness would give for E/S V-Ale can A/P/A 340 can REAL ALE 560 (900X 3.4)/ 21L= 145.8 IBU This seem rather high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 My calcualtions give me a bitterness of between 51 & 65.6 IBU (900 x 1.7)/21 = 72.8 If you allow for the fact that fermentation reduces colour and bitterness by between 10 to 30% you get the range of 51 & 65.6 IBU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 If the formula is bitterness x 1.7 (weight of can)/21 yea your right, but we are using 2 cans, so I figured you must multiply by the weight of 2 cans= 3.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Nope, even though we are using 2 cans, the bitterness figure only applies to 1.7kg. At first to us non-mathematicins it seems logical to double the volume but this isn't the case - If you apply the formula to each can individually and then add them together you will get the same result as using (900 x 1.7)/21 = 72.8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 So much for logic!!![innocent] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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