LeonardC2 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I just got back from JW Dover brew supply with my latest horde. 1)can Cooper's OS Lager malt 1)3lb bag Munton's plain extra light DME (they were out of the reg light) 1oz Willamette hops,4.7% AAU 1oz kent goldings hops,4.5% AAU (both pellet style) A better air lock (cup style) 2 hop bags I'm gunna brew it at 23L,& make a starter for the ale yeast to get it workin faster. Not to mention,get it down to the right temp for pitching this time. The two hop styles I picked should work quite harmoniously to improve the flavor with those fruity esters the ale yeast makes. Hope to get started tomorrow. What do you guys think of boiling the DME for 15 mins total for the 2 hop additions? I was thinkin of getting the DME to a boil,adding the kent goldings,wait 10 mins,then pitch the Willamette for the last 5 mins. The 15 min boil may even darken the extra light malt a lil,I think.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted February 16, 2011 Author Share Posted February 16, 2011 Wow. 20 people read this,& no replies? You'd think I'd just wizzed on the flag or something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 i say give it a go. it doesn't hurt to experiment. what style are you thinking of (if any)? if i were it do something similar i'd up the hops to 15 or 20g of each. i find the O.S. Lager to be a little bland by itself. i usually use it as the second can in toucan recipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty1 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 go for it. I think boiling the malt won't darken it though. By better air lock do you mean a roll of glad wrap?[roll] I have a few of the cup air locks here, if you let me know I cold have sent them to you[biggrin] ! I have 2 tins of Coopers APA and am about to brew them up to get a golden ale and an amber ale. I have ordered the hops (Nelson sauvin and Amarillo), and should be brewing within the week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I'm with Trusty, go for it - I haven't really done much with those hops so can't really offer any advice. And I'm not really too good with anything other than metric so can't comment on the amounts. As for whizzing on the flag, it just sounds like a lot of hard work. What with climbing the flag pole and everything [biggrin] A better air lock That, my friend, is the perfect oxymoron [tongue] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 From what I've read about DME's,there are two schools of thought. One side says to just add the DME to hot water & stir. Others boil the crap out of it. I merely want to use a 1/4 cup for the yeast starter,the rest in 2 gallons of boiling water to perform flavor/aroma hop additions. I read the page on hops,& what beers they are typically used in on freshops.com. They also list the flavoring characteristics of each one. These two hops produce similar tastes to take the fruity esters from the Ale yeast,& give them more character. And since flavor & aroma hops are usually added the last 15 mins or so of the boil,(15 mins,& 5 mins,respectively), It should be ok?. I'm calling it "white cougar pale ale",after my father's old CB handle. And yeah,that flag pole was a bit nippy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 No need to boil Coopers Dry Malt, Leonard. [wink] What is SDME? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 What is SDME? I'm glad you asked Paul. I had no idea but I didn't want to appear more stupid than usual by asking [wink] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty A Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 What is SDME? I'm glad you asked Paul. I had no idea but I didn't want to appear more stupid than usual by asking [wink] It stands for Software Development and Maintanance Environment in my line of work [biggrin]. Am I helpful or what!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squishy Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 What is SDME? I'm glad you asked Paul. I had no idea but I didn't want to appear more stupid than usual by asking [wink] It stands for Software Development and Maintanance Environment in my line of work [biggrin]. Am I helpful or what!! Why would you want that in your beer?????[unsure] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty1 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 What is SDME? I'm glad you asked Paul. I had no idea but I didn't want to appear more stupid than usual by asking [wink] It stands for Software Development and Maintanance Environment in my line of work [biggrin]. Am I helpful or what!! Why would you want that in your beer?????[unsure] Squishy!!!! don't you want your beer's software environment developed and maintained? Do I need to go to Blayney to get my beers SDME'd? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squishy Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Squishy!!!! don't you want your beer's software environment developed and maintained? Do I need to go to Blayney to get my beers SDME'd? Trusty Maybe i would if i could understand what it means.......[crying] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kearnage Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 SDME = spray dried malt extract? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty A Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Why would you want that in your beer?????[unsure] Makes you that little bit nerdier.[alien] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty1 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Squishy!!!! don't you want your beer's software environment developed and maintained? Do I need to go to Blayney to get my beers SDME'd? Trusty Maybe i would if i could understand what it means.......[crying] Me too! It's a computer thing! I think[pinched] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty A Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Yeah its a computer thing, what can you say I have a nerdy job but an awesome habbit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 kearnage is correct. it's Spray Dried Malt Extract. Spray drying sounded better when I read up on it somewhere.And if boiling SDME might hurt it,how about steeping the hops? And for how long? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 Ok,after looking back at a few vids on yerptube (sorry,just had a diet coke),I watched the makebeer.net guy(sells Cooper's stuff on line),he boiled a small amount of water,then added the SDME to it. He then added 2oz of 2 different hops (looked like dried & chopped) for about 10 mins. I haven't seen a reply yet,But I'm guessing that a short boil for hop additions won't hurt it. I understand that it doesn't need to be done,I just wondered if a short boil would be ok for my additions? I'm about ready for a beer! Chears m8's! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 Gotcha, spray dried as opposed to belt dried [wink] Coopers Light Dry Malt is spray dried. Spray Dried Malt tends to be a free flowing powder - very hydroscopic and will clump easily. Make Beer also have a - very low quality because it was shot on my old phone - showing the easy way to dissolve Spray Dried Malt. A short boil is okay but not necessary. Some of the recipes on this site suggest boiling the hops in a malt extract wort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Thanx for the info,PB2. I may still just go for a "heavy simmer" in 1 gallon of water to do my hop additions. Then take it off the heat to add the Cooper's can. I've heard others just making a "tea" out of the hops,then mix in the malts. I guess either way would work.?... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 Ok,made my pale ale & got it in the fermenter yesterday. Got up & looked at it this morning,& the krausen is up to the lid. But no volcano. So the ferment must've tapered off just in time. Here's how the recipe went: heated water in a small sauce pan till steaming lightly at 150F. Measured 1 1/2C into pyrex measuring cup,poured in 1/4C of the DME & stirred. Then inserted quick check thermometer,& covered with plastic. Have to wait till it's down to 70F-75F (about 20-24C)before pitching old Cooper's ale yeast. Having got it down to temp,pitch yeast in starter & stirred with sanitized fork. Recover with plastic,& quick check thermometer in pouring spout of measuring cup. I then started my brew kettle with 1 1/4 gallons of tap water. Brought it to a light boil/heavy simmer. Then bagged up 30g of Kent Golding hops & dropped into kettle. I set the timer at 15 mins,since I couldn't get a rolling boil with this darn electric stove & no lid. But WOW,did those KG hops smell wonderful! lemony,citrusy,herby. Like something I'd put on chicken on the barby. The timer runs out,I take the kettle off the heat (kettle is stainless steel). I take out & drain the hop bag. Slowly add the DME while stirring. Then add the Cooper's lager can while stiring to completely incorporate. Add 1 gallon chilled spring water to fermenter,then pour in contents of brew kettle. Top off to 23L with the remaining spring water. Which,in my case was about 4 2/3 gallons to level. Check for proper temp,then lightly stir yeast starter,(which should be creamy)add to fermenter & stir again. That's about it. I'm going to wait till maybe this weekend (1 week) to add the 30g of Willamette as a dry hop addition for maybe 3-5 days. The hydrometer read 1.044,good. Color is like light gold with a touch of amber,making it a light golden brown. Beautiful. This should be good,looks & smells great already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trusty1 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Ok,made my pale ale & got it in the fermenter yesterday. Got up & looked at it this morning,& the krausen is up to the lid. But no volcano. So the ferment must've tapered off just in time. Here's how the recipe went: heated water in a small sauce pan till steaming lightly at 150F. Measured 1 1/2C into pyrex measuring cup,poured in 1/4C of the SDME & stirred. Then inserted quick check thermometer,& covered with plastic. Have to wait till it's down to 70F-75F (about 20-24C)before pitching Cooper's ale yeast. Having got it down to temp,pitch yeast in starter & stirred with sanitized fork. Recover with plastic,& quick check thermometer in pouring spout of measuring cup. I then started my brew kettle with 1 1/4 gallons of tap water. Brought it to a light boil/heavy simmer. Then bagged up 30g of Kent Golding hops & dropped into kettle. I set the timer at 15 mins,since I couldn't get a rolling boil with this darn electric stove & no lid. But WOW,did those KG hops smell wonderful! lemony,citrusy,herby. Like something I'd put on chicken on the barby. The timer runs out,I take the kettle off the heat (kettle is stainless steel). I take out & drain the hop bag. Slowly add the SDME while stirring. Then add the Cooper's lager can while stiring to completely incorporate. Add 1 gallon chilled spring water to fermenter,then pour in contents of brew kettle. Top off to 23L with the remaining spring water. Which,in my case was about 4 2/3 gallons to level. Check for proper temp,then lightly stir yeast starter,(which should be creamy)add to fermenter & stir again. That's about it. I'm going to wait till maybe this weekend (1 week) to add the 30g of Willamette as a dry hop addition for maybe 3-5 days. The hydrometer read 1.044,good. Color is like light gold with a touch of amber,making it a light golden brown. Beautiful. This should be good,looks & smells great already. sounds good mate. I'm sure i have read somewhere that when boiling hops, you get better results if boiling them with the malt extract. Has something to do with the effiency of extraction from the hops increasing due to the higher gravity of the boil. Don't know how much it affects a small boil like 2L though. Someone may know more and wish to comment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 Boiling the Kent Golding that way did make what looked like a full bodied green tea. Smelled of toasty/buiscuty,herby,lemon grass. Very nice when I used that to mix the DME & the Cooper's can. After looking at it,smelling it,I'd have to say it's like an American version of the Paulaner Salvator Doppl Bock we drank last night. & that one's based on ale as well...[love] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 I took an hydrometer sample today,& it tested at 1.020. Got a lil way to go yet. Color is light gold with a touch of amber. A bit of carbonation already. It's still green,but I can smell the maltiness with the Kent Golding balancing against that with it's slight lemon grass quality. Taste had no off flavors,but has a certain crispness. The malt flavor is lighter than I wanted,but more pronounced than the reg lager kit. The Kent Golding hops gave a little bitterness with the ringwood hops already in the kit can. could taste a lil of that lemon grass thing as well,with slight floral/fruitiness. Maltiness should increase a bit with age. Dry hopping with the 1oz of Willamette should kick the aroma a bit more,with it's floral/fruity spicy thing. Def gunna add the DME to the boil for the hop additions next batch. Not to mention,instead of the plain extra light DME,I'm gunna go to a regular light,or maybe amber DME from Munton's. Needs a lil more maltiness & color to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Ok,it was very interesting to see that After the 3 weeks it took to reach FG,the brew got a little darker. A beautiful amber color,the same as the Salvator doppel bock! The flavor,imo,will be close,but more on the English side. Especially after I dry hopped it for the 4th week...all in the primary FV! It's been in the bottles (paulaner bottles,no less!),for 2 weeks this Sunday. 1 more week aging at room temp,then 5 days in the fridge for a few of them...meeeh,maybe a few more. Then I'll report back with a taste test. Wanna do a vid this time. But,today's my b-day,& I've got the last 10 bottles of the OS lager in fridge. That's just shy of 7 weeks in the bottle! Cheers y'all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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