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First Partial Mash - Curious


Lotm

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Okay. First partial mash. 2Kg grain, 1.5 LME, US-05, OG 1036, half whirlfoc tablet. Pitched at 25C (yeah too warm), 13 hour wait, moved to fridge and sitting at 18C since. Heaps of floaties. Not much krausen and some green-brown slime on top at one side of the krausen. Is this normal? More than happy to let it sit, but I'm curious.

 

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IMG_20121125_161516.jpg

 

Thanks,

 

Scott.

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Hi Trooper.

 

There did seem to be a lot of floating debris (certainly more than I am used to), but that will eventually settle out. The "green-brown slime" you mentioned I would only guess is the hop sludge sitting amongst the Krausen. That is unless one of your kids threw some food colouring in there when you weren't looking! [lol]

 

To be honest though, I would rather let someone with more All Grain experience answer your question a little more thoroughly.

 

Good luck with it.

 

Anthony.

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finally got some photos uploaded. Sick of photo sharing sites changing the way they do things. Photos are now in the original post. No chance of food colouring, i have a childproof lock into the garage and the brew fridge. [rightful]

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Okay. First partial mash. 2Kg grain, 1.5 LME, US-05, OG 1036, half whirlfoc tablet. Pitched at 25C (yeah too warm), 13 hour wait, moved to fridge and sitting at 18C since. Heaps of floaties. Not much krausen and some green-brown slime on top at one side of the krausen. Is this normal? More than happy to let it sit, but I'm curious.

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

Scott.

 

Are you doing BIAB? How are you cooling your wort after the boil?

Are you making any attempt to whirlpool or filter out the solids in the wort before transferring to the FV?

Would not be concerned by lack of krausen or the debris on top but rather the potential for less than optimal product due to temperatures.

It is preferable that after the boil the wort is cooled as rapidly as possible to pitching temperature. This will reduce likelihood of infection, create a cold break and reduce chill haze in your beer and reduce production of DMS in the cooling wort.

 

In an ideal situation you would pitch the yeast at a temperature slightly below the fermentation temperature you are planning as the temperature will rise slightly once the yeast get busy. You would also avoid rapid changes to temperature of the yeast until fermentation is nearly done as this will stress the yeast and lead to less than optimal results.

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Hi JohnM25.

 

It is normal during primary ferment for your temperature to rise by 1-2\xb0C. I don't believe there is any harm in pitching at a lower temperature than what you plan to brew as your constant through primary fermentation for that brew, provided it is within the guidelines of the yeast type & it's best brewing temperature range.

 

If pitching at temperatures 1-2\xb0C below the temperature you expect to maintain throughout primary ferment, expect your ferment to begin more slowly & take longer. I prefer to pitch at temperatures 2-3\xb0C above my eventual constant to get the yeast going earlier & then reduce temperature down to my constant.

 

Given that Trooper is using US-05 yeast in this brew, you would certainly be at the very edge of it's range if you pitched it into a 16\xb0C filled FV.

 

If you don't mind a slower start to proceedings, & you pitch within the range governing the yeast, I don't see any problem with it.

 

What can I say, I'm an ACTION MAN! Why delay the inevitable. [lol] [tongue]

 

Anthony.

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Yep BIAB. Yeah I chilled the wort by putting pot in ice bath and chilled it to about 28c then strained it into FV. I then added some chilled water to get the temp down further. No I didn't whirlpool it. Should I have? At least I'm less curious about the krausen. [unsure]

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I BIAB partials and chill in an ice bath. I also pour the liquid into the FV through a strainer and try to leave as much trub behind as possible.

 

But even so, grain dust/debris etc still gets through the bag and strainer. And it looks exactly like your first photo.

 

But it will settle to the bottom fairly quickly and a few days later it will start to compact further on the bottom.

 

It should be fine.

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Yeah i didn't really try and prevent the trub from the pot going into the FV. [pouty] Will do that next time. I'm feeling better about the whole thing. Time will tell how it works out. Already bought more grain for another run. [cool]

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No I didn't whirlpool it. Should I have?[unsure]

 

Whirl-pooling would not help in your situation as you appear to be just pouring the entire kettle volume through a strainer into the FV and then cooling further in the FV. Whirl-pooling is just a method of separating the break material and other debris from the wort before it is drained from the kettle into the FV.

I was just trying to get a picture of your process.

I assume you added bacteria free water to the wort in the FV so all should be fine.

It is better to limit the amount of break material going into the FV. It is generally believed the cold break material is not an issue in the FV and may in fact be beneficial to the yeast but the hot break material can cause off flavors.

Forgive me but I am just anal about temperatures in all phases of the brewing of and storing of beer.

 

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I learned the hard way about reducing your grain based wort to a good temperature before adding it into the FV with your other fermentables.

 

On a recent brew after the mash was complete I did (as I usually do), take the pot off the stove & place in my deep sink & surround with cold tap water, & a few added ice cubes. In a short time this method will cool the grain wort quite well from it's original temperature. However it does equalise the water surrounding it very quickly with the temperature contained inside the cookpot. It was at this point I got lazy, & strained the grain wort into my FV. I then filled with cold water & some ice, but came up some 5\xb0C above what I wanted to pitch my yeast.

 

I said to myself, "Baahh, throw it in the fridge & allow the fridge to bring the FV down to temperature so you can pitch the yeast."

 

It took hours. [pinched]

 

What I should have done was place the lower liquid volumed cookpot with the grain wort into the brew fridge & cooled that. The smaller volume (approx. 6 litres) takes far less time to cool than a 23 litre volume.

 

I still pitched at correct temperature, but certainly could have done that many hours earlier with a smarter approach to cooling.

 

Live & learn.

 

Anthony.

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I learned the hard way about reducing your grain based wort to a good temperature before adding it into the FV with your other fermentables.

...........................

I still pitched at correct temperature, but certainly could have done that many hours earlier with a smarter approach to cooling.

 

Live & learn.

 

Anthony.

 

Recommend you consider an immersion chiller. Dead easy to make - look at youtube videos on subject.

 

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Or have some more ice on hand. Changing the water and adding more ice to the ice bath will chill it quicker than a fridge.

 

Also make sure you have chilled water on hand for topping up the FV. I sanitise 2 x 5 litre water containers, fill with water and put in the fridge the day before. I may not need the full 10 litres but it is nice to have it on hand.

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I use the no chill method with my AG brews - simply drain from the kettle into a cube and let it naturally cool. I have only tasted one brew from using this method so far as the others haven't been fermented yet, but I have noticed no harsh or bad flavours in it. It just needs more time for the yeast to settle out because there's an annoying yeasty taste in it still [pinched]

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I use the no chill method with my AG brews - simply drain from the kettle into a cube and let it naturally cool. I have only tasted one brew from using this method so far as the others haven't been fermented yet' date=' but I have noticed no harsh or bad flavours in it. It just needs more time for the yeast to settle out because there's an annoying yeasty taste in it still [pinched']

Yes sounds like it needs time. What yeast did you use?

I would like to do a no-chill just out of curiosity. I am assuming you fill the cube to capacity and seal during cooling.

Do you cube it immediately or let it cool a little in the kettle?

Which cube do you use and where did you get it?

 

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Or have some more ice on hand. Changing the water and adding more ice to the ice bath will chill it quicker than a fridge.

 

Also make sure you have chilled water on hand for topping up the FV. I sanitise 2 x 5 litre water containers, fill with water and put in the fridge the day before. I may not need the full 10 litres but it is nice to have it on hand.

 

My normal method is very similar to yours Hairy. As I stated, I was a little bit "lazy" that day & tried something different.

 

I mainly posted the info in the hope it might prevent someone else from doing something similar.

 

Thanks for the advice on the immersion chiller JohnM25. The method Hairy outlined is near enough my usual method, & works quite well when I'm not soo lazy. [innocent]

 

Cheers guys.

 

Anthony.

 

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Hi John,

I used US-05 yeast, I've never had that issue with extract brews using it, however, I didn't have any whirlfloc or similar on hand when I originally mixed up the brew. It will have plenty of time though, I've got 2 or 3 other batches to get through first before I start seriously drinking that one.[lol]

 

You're right in guessing that I fill the cube to capacity and then seal it. I do let it sit in the kettle for 10 or 15 mins after the boil to give the crap a bit of a chance to settle out, but then it goes straight into the cube. I have two 25 litre food grade cubes, they have provision for a tap but I never use it. I just got them from a local camping shop.

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Floaties settling nicely. Day 5 and krausen is thick and wet looking. Haven't used US-05 before. Is this normal?

G'day Scott

I haven't done any partials but have used US05 lots, both dry & liquid. Your's looks normal to me, I did have one that stayed like that for yonks.

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Certainly looks healthy to me.

No two krausens are the same and depend on multiple factors like FV shape, trub and protein in the wort, temperature, yeast health, pitching rate, Oxygen levels etc.

I use 05 quite a bit and find even from brew to brew doing the same recipe that the krausen varies. Thought it might be the different generation of yeast or the amount I pitch because my harvested 05 seem more active than the original dry yeast.

I never place much importance on the amount of krausen although I suspect unhealthy yeast will result in little krausen but a small krausen does not necessarily mean unhealthy yeast.

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It looks fantastic to me, but it might be a good time to put the camera down, re-seal up the FV, and leave it to do its thing.

 

I know it's tempting to keep poking and monitoring, but you'd be better off just leaving it alone for now. [happy]

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Certainly looks healthy to me.

No two krausens are the same and depend on multiple factors like FV shape, trub and protein in the wort, temperature, yeast health, pitching rate, Oxygen levels etc.

I use 05 quite a bit and find even from brew to brew doing the same recipe that the krausen varies. Thought it might be the different generation of yeast or the amount I pitch because my harvested 05 seem more active than the original dry yeast.

I never place much importance on the amount of krausen although I suspect unhealthy yeast will result in little krausen but a small krausen does not necessarily mean unhealthy yeast.

 

well said.

 

Yeast will actually 'get used' to your brewery and conditions. If all going well, by about the 3rd or 4th time you have pitched it goes nuts and will redily chomp its way through a biggish wort in no time flat.

 

I went to a brewery once where he had pitched and repitched the same yeast 128 times!!!

 

[bandit]

 

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