Alex Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Gentlemen, This is my first post and second attempt at brewing EVER. This is what I did... Real Ale 1 Kg Dextrose 600g Hi-Malt Glucose. 23L water Avg Temp 22C OG was 1.041 which I thought would be a bit higher On day 3 I added 20g of Golding hops 5.4% A.A. in a Muslin cloth. I hope it turns out well. I guess the questions I have is how can I brew a higher gravity beer next time? My next venture will be... Thomas Coopers Wheat Kit 1Kg Dried Wheat malt extract 600g Hi Malt Glucose 29g Hallertauer hops during the boil. I would like a FG in the 1.050 1.060 range. Thanks in advance, and cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Welcome to the forum Alex That first recipe I believe is equivalent to 1.3kg Dex and 300g malt. Therefore, personally I reckon the other way around would give you a better result. 1.3kg malt and 300g dex. Anyhow, it's done now and I am sure you'll drink it as your first brew is always a buzz. Using those ingredients in your 2nd brew you will be pushing it to reach a 1060 OG, not FG. (OG = Original Gravity, FG = Final Gravity, SG = Specific Gravity.) Is there any specific reason you want to push for a high gravity? HERE is an online calculator which will give you estimates of what you want. I suggest playing around a little to find something with the ingredients you have. One word of advice though, more malt less simple sugars will give you a better outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 HI Bill, Thanks for the response! My apologies for the FG comment on my next recipe. I meant OG. So, with all your advise and my potential recipe for the wheat ale, do you think I will be able to reach a higher gravity with what I have stated? The reason I would like a higher gravity is simply for a bigger and/or stronger beer. **Edit** Thanks for the Calculator page. I understand it says that calcs vary but, it says my initial Real Ale OG should have been 1.051, but it was 1.041. I know that warmer worts are float lower than cold. When I read the Hydro the temp was 28C. Cheers Mate!!! [annoyed] Drinking Molson Canadian out of a can right now!! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 No need to apologise, we knew what you meant I was just correcting you so you also know [rightful] In short for a wheat with that recipe then no. You will not reach 50-60 If you want a bigger beer then I suggest trying one of the recipes in the How To Brew section. Then start doing some of your own when you have an idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Cheers Mate!!! [annoyed] Drinking Molson Canadian out of a can right now!! lol Molson Canadian!!![sick] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 [bandit] Tell me about it! Thanks for the input lads. I'll let ya know how the Real Ale turns out and what I will do for the Wheat. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 **Edit** Thanks for the Calculator page. I understand it says that calcs vary but, it says my initial Real Ale OG should have been 1.051, but it was 1.041. I know that warmer worts are float lower than cold. When I read the Hydro the temp was 28C. 1.041 corrected at 28C = 1.044. Therefore, your correct reading is actually 1.044. Nevertheless, possibly the Hi-Malt Glucose isn't what I thought it was. That being 50% Malt and 50% Dex or possibly the ingredients weren't completely dissolved in your wort which wouldn't really matter (just gives you an incorrect reading) I really can't say why but if I were you I would be finding out what exactly is in Hi-Malt Glucose or just brew with Malt and Dextrose which I have no doubt would be a lot cheap anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 Hey guys, I am on day day 6 of my Real ale. It is still cloudy as hell. I mean, I take my Afghanistan surefire light with over a 100 lummens to it and I can only see "maybe 3 inches" through the brew. Is this normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Sounds normal to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Sounds normal to me....though I can't say I have ever tried to look through my fermentor [biggrin] . My beer glass maybe, fermentor no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Don't worry about it man. Mine are usually pretty clear after the ten day mark, but I can't tell just by looking into the FV. The real clearing will happen in the bottle anyhow. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 K. Thx. Just a an SG of 1.008! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
***** Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Hey guys, I am on day day 6 of my Real ale. It is still cloudy as hell. Is this normal? Hey Alex Believe it or not these two brews ended up the same colour. The one on the left (Clear) has been in the FV for 13 days while the cloudy one on the right has only been there for 6 days. A graphical representation of the benefits of 14 days in the FV [cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 WOW!! The one on the right is EXACTLY how mine looks now, but I got an SG of 1.008. I didn't think you could wait that long. So should I wait until it gets clear to bottle? Or just giver when I get 1.008 two days in a row? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Just bottle it after 14 days if the gravity readings are stable, which they should be by then. With ales I normally leave them in the FV for 2 weeks - a week or so to ferment and the second week to clear/clean up a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 two days in a row? I kegged a brew last week that had been in the fermenter for 6 weeks, you can believe that I brew this way for clarity...or you can call me out for being lazy [roll] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 LOL![lol] Thanks boys. I'll bottle this bad boy when she looks right. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 29, 2012 Author Share Posted October 29, 2012 Umm quick question! I just took a reading for the hell of it. Yesterday I got 1.005...today (day7) I got a reading of 1.000 I am using the hydrometer right, there is enough fluid...I spun it before reading. I am reading the meniscus and not to rising liquid. I just tasted it and it tastes a little like sparkling apple juice, beer,hops, and alcohol. Help? **Edit** My hydrometer reads water at at .9925?? That is odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 From How To Brew - John Palmer... Cidery flavors can have several causes but are often the result of adding too much cane or corn sugar to a recipe. One component of a cidery flavor is acetaldehyde which has a green-apple character. It is a common fermentation byproduct and different yeasts will produce different levels of it depending on the recipe and temperature. Cidery flavors are encouraged by warmer than normal temperatures and can be decreased by lagering I do believe I suggested in an earlier post that a general rule of the thumb would be not having a lot of Dextrose. [sideways] Nevertheless, it may go with a bit of time in storage. Assuming you tested the hydrometer in 20C water then you need to have it replaced or do some calculation adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 29, 2012 Author Share Posted October 29, 2012 You did. And I did...need to cut some of the red off...maybe even all of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
***** Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 .need to cut some of the red off...maybe even all of it. Hey Alex Best if you cut of small pieces and don't be too heavy handed. Mine was out by .005 and after several small snips it now reads spot on. You can't stick the red piece back on if you cut too much off [bandit]. I persisted for a while by adding .005 to my readings but now as I only measure the terminal SG its best to have an accurate Hydro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 Hey Will, I cut off a bit at a time, and ended cutting off about 90% of it. It reads 1.000 at 20C. Good to go. Better than buying a new one eh? Thanks...Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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