DarkBlade Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 What is SMOTY please? I have seen a few references to it & don't know what it means. Please explain? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB2 Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Answer = February Second Month Of The Year Shortest Month Of The Year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundawake Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 It can also mean Street Machine of the Year but I don't think that applies here [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipsy Mcstaga Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Hey DarkB SMOTY is recipe that most of us have made from time to time, Heres the link to the recipe SMOTY Ale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkBlade Posted September 25, 2011 Author Share Posted September 25, 2011 Thanks lads - SMOTY refers to Feb being the Second Month Of the Year. But what is the significance of beer brewed in Feb? Is it a northern hemisphere thing? Coz I dont have aircon, I reckon my little micro-brewery is going to shut down over summer (gets rather hot in Melb Jan-Feb). There ain't going to be no SMOTY at my place. Although, someone told me to sit the fermenter in bathtub or big container of water 9maybe with ice). Does this work? Is it OK to leave tap under water? (I suppose you sterilise the tap prior to racking as per normal). I have a 2nd Extra Extra Stout bubbling away - 1 x can of coopers stout, 1 x can dark malt extraxt & 1kg dextrose. Fisrt one was very, very nice[happy] Also have a 2nd Little Creatures pale Ale clone about to be racked & 3rd one to go down straight away. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 It was called a SMOTY ale as Coopers had a competition in February 2010 with the prize given being the ingredients to make a batch of SMOTY Ale. We had to guess what SMOTY stood for nobody got the right answer but a few of us won the prize for guessing "shortest month of the year". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 Oh, and to address your summer temp dilemma I would suggest the best way to control your temps at any time of the year is to use a temp controlled fridge. It will revolutionise your brewing - it is dead easy to get a cheap (or free) fridge for this purpose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkBlade Posted September 25, 2011 Author Share Posted September 25, 2011 I would love to go down path of temp controlled fridge but swinging that by the financial co-ordinator might be a little hard.... I'm producing very acceptable brews now with my two fermenters in the shed. Have them on heat pads plugged into timers & am keeping temps about 18-22'C. I'm doing ales & stouts, am not fond of lagers so am happy at the moment. I am looking at doing a Coopers Real Ale & if I like it it may become my standard drinkin beer. I have done a few Little Creatures Pale Ale clones but at $57 for complete kit (all ingredients incl carb drops), I was wondering if I could make a "scoffing beer" for a bit less. Maybe not. Doing my own brews isn't about making bulk alcohol for little $$, more to make beers that I like without paying the $60-70 a slab. Cheers lads - thanks for all info so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond4 Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Hey Dark I ferment my brews in a box I converted from an old broccoli container. Its made of polystyrene or foam, either way it works well to control temperature with water and ice blocks. The box is filled with water then ice blocks are added with the fermenter sitting in the box half filed with water to keep things cool. Temperatures can vary between 5c and 18c depending on the temp outside, and in my brewing area in Perth in summer it can get to 40c plus, so cool temps are the best for better flavours. As for the tap getting infected.....well if it don't leak it don't get infected. I can happily say I've never had a problem with the tap issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biermoasta Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 I am looking at doing a Coopers Real Ale & if I like it it may become my standard drinkin beer. If you're wondering about a recipe, I highly recommend this: 1 can Real Ale 1kg Light dry malt extract 180g Crystal Malt 20g goldings hops (steeped) Made to 24 litres and fermented using kit yeast. It is great to drink early on, but give it 3 months... and it is amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 I have done a few Little Creatures Pale Ale clones but at $57 for complete kit (all ingredients incl carb drops)' date=' I was wondering if I could make a "scoffing beer" for a bit less. [/quote'] [w00t] Holy cow DarkB are you putting gold dust in your LCPA! You should be able to make LCPA for a lot less than that. What ingredients are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 I would love to go down path of temp controlled fridge but swinging that by the financial co-ordinator might be a little hard.... I'm producing very acceptable brews now with my two fermenters in the shed. Have them on heat pads plugged into timers & am keeping temps about 18-22'C. I'm doing ales & stouts, am not fond of lagers so am happy at the moment. I make 99% ales and am not a very big lager fan but I find my fridge indespensible it keeps my ales at a stable 18C in summer and gently raises the temp to 18C in the colder months. You should be able to source a fridge (friends,gumtree,ebay) for around $0-100 and a temp controller setup for under $30. Alternatively a box like Jason suggests is a decent alternative. You will find your beers will improve just by getting them off the heat pads - indirect ambient heat will treat your beer much better than by the full throttle blast of direct heat from a heat belt or heat pad. But as you say you are happy at the moment. I'd be looking at where you get you ingredients first - you should be able to make a great LCPA style beer for half (or less) the price you mentioned ($57). Be forewarned - if you do put together a temp controlled fridge or box you will be astounded by the improvements in your beer and will want to do even more...it is a slippery slope [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkBlade Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 I hear you Muddy Waters - I know I should be able to source ingredients for less but where? I am in suburban Melbourne & get my gear from local brew shop (BTW - lads there are very helpful so I won't s**tcan them). I am using kit comprising: * Black Rock Pilsener Blonde \u2013 1.25ltr * Brewcraft Brew Booster #15 \u2013 1kg * Wheat Malt extract \u2013 150gm * Cascade Hops \u2013 15gm * Willamette Hop pellets \u2013 15gm * Safale US-05 Yeast If you know where I can get same/similar for less, please let me know. And I know I can get better results with better temp control but I'm only just starting out. Baby steps mate, baby steps. Getting start up $$ past financial controller hard enough. Figured $57 all up for equivalent cartons of LCPA worth $160 (2.5 cartons @ $64 carton retail) was good start. Please give me more info to take to finance department. Ha Ha. Seriously, any advice lads I am open to.It's how one learns. I am at very early stages of my home brew experience & am thoroughly enjoying the results so far. I am also keen on doing a big, Imperial Russian Stout so may be investing in a 60L fermenter very soonly. Have recipe from Coopers site but any others will be looked at. Thanks to Biermosta for Real Ale recipe. Will try next. Cheers lads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkBlade Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 Forgot to ask Biermosta, How long to steep Goldings hops pls? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Steep the hops for around 20-30 minutes. More or less doesn't matter too much. $57 for that is very expensive. Although the Black Rock kits seem to be more expensive than, say, Coopers. Here are a couple of links to give you an idea of prices. Craftbrewer Grain and Grape ESB Brewing Supplies You might be able to find cheaper ingredients elsewhere but this gives you an idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biermoasta Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Forgot to ask Biermosta, How long to steep Goldings hops pls? Once I've emptied the can of real ale in to the fermenter, I just fill it up with boiling water (to dissolve all of the remaining malt extract) and chuck the hops in the can for about 10 minutes. Seems to work a treat [joyful] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkBlade Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 @ Hairy - Thanks for links to other brew sites. Dunno if it's me being thick or just not looking well enough but I reckon all sites are selling similar kits/ingredients for a similar cost to what I'm paying (for the LCPA clone). Plus factor in postage.... Maybe if (& when) I know enough I can start buying bulk of ingredients but I'm still waaaay at early stage. Still, please don't be afraid to pass on any info to me that may help. I am in Melbourne metro area & have two brew shops nearby - tho one is a really old shop that stocks only basic gear & also sells hydro kits for growing "tomatoes" etc. I've found local K-mart is good place to source basic Coopers cans, dextrose, carbonation drops etc but unless I'm going to the shopping centre for other things, I really can't be bothered driving there & fighting for a car park just to save a few $$. Also, lads at other brew shop always prepared to give me advice (I know they want my business!) & I cant get that from a pimply 17 yr old K-mart employee. Cheers lads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I agree, your LHBS is a great source of info and its good to support them. Plus most of the stuff we need can only be sourced from them (hops, yeast etc). I did a quick calc and your ingredients should cost around $40, give or take a bit and ignoring postage. When you cost your brew, do you include the cost of the whole packet of hops (eg 90g) and wheat malt or do you work it out per gram? If you buy 90g of hops or 1kg of wheat malt you can store what you don't use for other brews. It may be that you outlayed $57 but your beer cost less. Or I may be completely wrong [innocent] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoaldV Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Just as a side note, given I live in a colder climate, I found an excellent way to control temp was to: - grab an un-used 50w fish heater and un-used pump (I have all kinds of aquarium stuff laying around) - buy a $15 tub from bunnings - fill tub with water until covering required level of heater - set temp, and cover with unscented garbage bag - wait 24 hours to make sure temp is correct (in my case I set it to 22 degrees) - after sealing the tap with some glad wrap and elastic band, plonk the fermenter in the water (the water line in my setup was sitting about half way up the brew in the fermenter). Temp sat perfectly at 22 degrees every day for all 9 days of primary fermentation. Only annoying thing was testing SG as I had to pull it out of the water (very carefully) so I could access the tap. Probably not a traditional way, but was cheap for me given I already had the equipment laying around. Just an idea that worked for me... and for the much more experienced brewers, feel free to tell me if it's 'wrong' [rightful] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Only thing I'd suggest Roald is to try for 18C rather that 22C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkBlade Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 @ Hairy - thanks for info. Yes my LCPA clone kit was $57 ($56.30) incl carbonation drops so whilst I can see buying from these other guys will work out cheaper I am going to have to buy in bulk & store product to make it work. Plus factor in postage costs also. I'm not at that stage yet but thanks for all info guys. Like when I started out in m/cycling - buying all gear proves expensive & you end up buying things for more until you work out stuff. It's called experience. Don't be afraid to pass on info lads - I don't have to use it if I choose not to but all info helps. @ RoaldV - I'm not having any problems with my temps in cooler months. I'm using a heat pad hooked up to plug-in timer & seems to be able to keep it at the 18-22'C range OK. Some say heat pad/strap not best but as I am a brew virgin & it's working for me, I'll run with that. My results so far are FAR more acceptable than my shocking efforts in the late 80's/early 90's. My issue will be to keep beer cool in summer. I have thought of small pump (fish tank pump I have) to pump water over fermenter sitting in water tub. A towel around the fermenter with water flowing over it will aid in evaporative cooling. Not high tech I know but I have to work with what I have & can afford. In the words of that great philosophiser; Improvidus , Apto quod Victum I am looking forward to a HUGE weekend of armchair sports; AFL GF, RWC, NRL GF & Moto GP. Cheers lads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkBlade Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 @ Hairy again - A thousand apologies mate. I didn\u2019t have my looking eyes in! I looked at those websites you sent me but after first two were interstate (I\u2019m in sunny Melb) I didn\u2019t bother to look at third site (in Melb). Mistake #1. Plus, I also didn\u2019t look properly as to all the ingredients etc & do the maths. Mistake #2. I looked at them again (esp the Melb based one) & saw that, YES, I can source my LCPA at a competitive $40. And storing all the excess shouldn\u2019t be an issue. I had in mind 5 or 10 kg bags of product. (Dunno why\u2026..) Sorry mate \u2013 I am having a lot of info thrown at me at the moment (not all beer related btw) & I plead \u201coverwhelmed\u201d. To everybody who is trying to learn me to be a better home brewer \u2013 thanks for your patience - I am taking baby steps at the moment but I am getting there. So, can I ask? How should I store excess hop pellets? In fridge in a sealed container? In the pantry? And ditto to excess wheat malts & dried malt extracts? Thanks lads for any & all advice. Improvidus , Apto quod Victum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond4 Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Good morning DarkB, you should keep your unused hops in an air tight container or in the package they came in with a rubber band or the bag clips you get from IKEA $2 I thing ...work great,in the fridge. But I keep mine in the freezer above the beer fridge. Its just a safer place for me at home,but fridge is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 In regards to storage, I do the following: Hops - In a ziplock bag in the freezer (I have a tupperware container to put all my ziplocked hops in). Dry Malts - In a cool dry place (NOT the fridge). Liquid malt extracts (hopped or unhopped) - In the fridge Yeast - In the fridge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 No problems DarkB. If you won't be using the hops for a while, it is best to store your hops in the freezer. Put them in an air-tight container or a zip lock bag. Try to remove as much air from the bag before sealing. If you will be using the hops soon then just store them in the fridge. Your dried malt extracts can be stored in air-tight containers. Try to keep them in a dry, cool place. Keep any excess liquid malt in a sanitised air-tight container in the fridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.