weggl Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Just bought a temp controller, Elitech STC-1000 FROM EBAY. The problem is the setting instructions are written in Chinese-English. Such things as \u201chold key < or > key simultaneously to chose and adjust parameter value of the current menu promptly\u201d. What on Earth does that mean? One of the blokes on the forum bought one of these and got it to work, cant remember who it was. I have wired it up to work a light bulb and though a relay a 12v fan, that part is no problem. I can get it to operate but as to setting the on=off temp range I am lost. If anybody knows could they give me some instructions that make sense? Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 To set the temperature you want to maintain. Press and hold the S button for longer than 3 seconds. The display will then show F1. Immediately hold the S button and push either the UP button or the Down Button. The temperature that was previously set (default) will start to change. As soon as you have adjusted the temperature to what you want hit the button on the top left to save it. Do the same for F2(Difference set Value). I have my F2 set at 0.5\xb0C. Use the same procedure for F3 or F4 Once you have F1 up you can just push the UP button to scroll thru F2,F3,F4 and change the settings to suit your needs. If you have an accurate calibrated thermometer you can use that as a standard to set the STC-1000 to the same temperature using F4. I have 5 digital thermometers and they are all different but 0.7\xb0C maximum variation covers the lot of them. Given this is not rocket science we are playing with I would not worry about a fraction of a degree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 Thank John, that makes a little more sense than the Chinese English. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Warren, you may find that it is written in Chinglish. That is the official language of the instruction manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 John, thanks again, got it working in 2 min. Hairy, you are right, the way the world is going we would all do well to learn the lingo.[pinched] Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Great Warren - you will love it, My first one failed as previously discussed on another thread. It happened when I began to change the temperature while load was switched on. Probably just unlucky but I will be careful not to do that one again. The supplier has come to the party and is airmailing me a replacement for free. I pulled it apart and there is no fuse or indication of dry joints etc. Power supply still working so suspect the IC just died. I will soon have two as I purchased and received a second one and that is working a treat. I will use it in my conditioning cabinet that I am going to construct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 John, I wouldn't worry about building a conditioning cabinet. Just get a fridge and use that. You should be able to find one for nothing or next to nicks anyway. It can then double up for lagering and cold conditioning as well if need be. Just easier and a better option I reckon [innocent] Well done Warren. The last one I did I put a 240v socket and switch in it as well. At least I don't need to hunt around for another power point if I need one now. I hope you didn't pay more than $16 for it. There are some people who try getting a lot more than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 John, I have seen your brew area now (pics in other thread) and can understand you may not have the room for another fridge there but how about a small bar fridge you can sit on the shelf/ledge off the floor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 John' date=' I have seen your brew area now (pics in other thread) and can understand you may not have the room for another fridge there but how about a small bar fridge you can sit on the shelf/ledge off the floor?[/quote'] A bar fridge [love] Bill you are talking my language mate. And it could double up as a second cold chamber as well if I want to brew and lager at the same time. Just got to find one big enough for the FV and small enough to get down the stairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaynoW Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Glad you got it all sorted Warren! I wasn't real fluent in the 'Chinglish' either! If you need any other info on them, don't hesitate to ask. No looking back now ...... Ignore the "Airlock" it's gone now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 Bill I paid $30 for it, where do you get them for $16? I wired mine into a box with a 240v relay which switches on the 12v computer fan at the same time as the light bulb, works great. Wayno, what no Gladwrap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 John, I took the liberty of sending off your instructions on setting the thing to the Company, if they send them out with the unit it would make it easier for the non-technical homebrewers. Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaynoW Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 LOL Warren..... I only use Glad Wrap and the o-ring seal now! Try this link on Ebay.... STC-1000 on Ebay $16.45 AUD and free freight. I received my 3 in seven days from Hong Kong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Bill I paid $30 for it, where do you get them for $16? I wired mine into a box with a 240v relay which switches on the 12v computer fan at the same time as the light bulb, works great. Wayno, what no Gladwrap? Wayno has the correct link for the cheaper one. :) Warren - you could have just used a double adapter with your bulb. The one I just built with the 240v socket I will likely have a PC fan on a mobile phone charger in that which is wired to a micro switch located under the freezer lid. When the lid is open the fan will turn off then back on again when it is closed. Someone on AHB ran a test on costs to run these fans and it didn't even register 1c after 48 hours so it should be fine leaving it on. The idea with the switch is so when the lid is open it won't draw warm "outside" air into the freezer [joyful] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Bill, very easy to wire in a $6 relay. Wayno, thanks for the link. As a matter of fact thanks to all on this site who have been of great help, in everything. wARREN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 LOL Warren..... I only use Glad Wrap and the o-ring seal now! Try this link on Ebay.... STC-1000 on Ebay $16.45 AUD and free freight. I received my 3 in seven days from Hong Kong! I have several of these and I find that they need to be calibrated (repeatedly) and if I was to buy another I would go for the actual STC-1000's for $24. However the seller is quite good about sending replacements, which I havnt tested yet. all up they are better than not having one but I find they cant be trusted and seem to cycle more that the STC that I run. Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 I have several of these and I find that they need to be calibrated (repeatedly) and if I was to buy another I would go for the actual STC-1000's for $24. However the seller is quite good about sending replacements, which I havnt tested yet. all up they are better than not having one but I find they cant be trusted and seem to cycle more that the STC that I run. Yob What is the difference between this one and the $24 ones? I know there are some cheaper ones with a 5Amp max switching capacity but I see the one Wayno linked is 10A. I also notice the STC-1000 comes badged with different brand names as well but units look identical. How much out of calibration do they go? I have a second digital thermometer set up in the box as a check and both the STC-1000 that failed and the replacement keep a steady variation to the other device. I have in fact never bothered to calibrate it because I do not have a thermometer I know is accurate to 0.1\xb0C to use as a standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sven Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 I've just bought one, WayneO. Keen to see how it goes. Thanks for the link, Gents! Can you connect the heat pad straight to it or do you need to set up a circuit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 I've just bought one, WayneO. Keen to see how it goes. Thanks for the link, Gents! Can you connect the heat pad straight to it or do you need to set up a circuit? You could connect it direct but I would not. Cut the end of an old extension lead and connect that to the heat circuit and then plug the heat pad into that. Do the same for the cool circuit if you intend to control a fridge. It makes it easy to change heating or cooling devices. If you think you will never use anything else but a heat pad well you could just cut the plug off the heatpad lead and wire it direct to the controller. Again I would not do it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Below is a pic of my first one I did. It has a socket for the heating source and one for the cooling source. The 2nd one I have has a 240v socket and switch for anything else I wish to plug in. You could wire a heat and cooling source directly to it. However, I chose to go via the standard plugs so I can change things easy if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 What is the difference between this one and the $24 ones? I know there are some cheaper ones with a 5Amp max switching capacity but I see the one Wayno linked is 10A. I also notice the STC-1000 comes badged with different brand names as well but units look identical. How much out of calibration do they go? I have a second digital thermometer set up in the box as a check and both the STC-1000 that failed and the replacement keep a steady variation to the other device. I have in fact never bothered to calibrate it because I do not have a thermometer I know is accurate to 0.1\xb0C to use as a standard. You know.. effed If I know whats going on now... the suspect unit in question has eliteck or some such written on it.. no mention of STC, the spare I have says same with STC1000 up the side... the replacement I got sent has no eliteck but has STC1000 as per the other I have in operation [unsure] erm... maybe the company gets their hands on these from various sources... stuffed if I know... suffice to say that any of these units should be checked for temperature accuracy and if possible compared to another working and trusted unit (I run 2 so is easy to put both on the one fermenter and check that they read the same) so there it is. as for the temp difference it was about 1.5-1.8 deg so was and the reading was high resulting in a lower ferment temp which was lucky. Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 suffice to say that any of these units should be checked for temperature accuracy and if possible compared to another working and trusted unit (I run 2 so is easy to put both on the one fermenter and check that they read the same) as for the temp difference it was about 1.5-1.8 deg so was and the reading was high resulting in a lower ferment temp which was lucky. Yob I did a Google on calibrating thermometers and it is a can of worms. Seems the error is non linear most cases and it is best to calibrate the thermometer to a temperature that it will most likely be used to control ( ie mash temperature or fermentation temperature). Seems if you set the freezing and boiling points it could still be throwing a wobbly in the mid ranges. This is a commonly described ice method for setting 0\xb0C(32\xb0F) "Ice Point Method: Fill a plastic or metal container (a large Styrofoam cup, for example) with chipped or crushed ice; then add clean freshwater to a depth of at least 10 cm (4 inches) - 50% ice, 50%water. Stir the ice and water then wait a minimum of 2 min to be certain the water is completely cooled and good mixing has occurred. Suspend the stem of the dial thermometer or the probe of the electronic thermometer in the ice slurry. Wait 2 minutes until the indicator stops changing. While thermometer is in the ice water adjust the thermometer to 0\xbaC (32\xbaF), if necessary, by following the manufacturer's directions. " Just received my replacement STC-1000 and I might try that later to see how far out the default freezing point is on it. The photo shows the failed STC-1000 at top and the replacement STC-1000 at bottom. Note different branding. Most likely all come out of the same factory and just badged differently for different customers. They are both however the 10A switching units not the 5A units oft seen on eBay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 John, tries the F4 but the temp stops at 10C. Just wont go any higher. Held the S button while on F4 hit the up button goes to 10c, stops there. What am I doing wrong? Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 phaark... how far out is it? I assume you realise the F4 if for calibrating it? If it needs more than 10'c to calibrate it I would be getting a replacemnt. Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 Yob, I was trying to match the unit to one of my other digital thermometers that was readin 22.2C at the time. Could not get it past 10. Settled by setting the cut in temp 1.1C difference, works ok that way. Got the FV staying at 22C. Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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