Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 John, tries the F4 but the temp stops at 10C. Just wont go any higher. Held the S button while on F4 hit the up button goes to 10c, stops there. What am I doing wrong? Warren As Yob pointed out F4 is for calibration. Determine how much out the sensor on the STC-1000 is. For example if you determine the STC-1000 is displaying a temperature that is say 0.9\xb0C lower than the correct temperature then you would need to adjust the STC-1000 by +0.9\xb0C. If it was reading 0.9\xb0C higher than the correct reading then you would need to adjust the STC-1000 by -0.9\xb0C. Push S button for longer than 3 secs. The display will change to F1. Push the up button 3 times to get the display to show F4. Now hold the S button while pushing the UP or Down button to reach the desired example variation of 0.9\xb0C or -0.9\xb0C. Then press the top left button to save the setting. Your STC-1000 should now display the same reading as the other correct thermometer. As discussed earlier these units are said to have a non linear error and that could mean it may be correct at say 5\xb0C but be out at 20\xb0C. It is recommended to do the temperature calibration based on the temperature that is most important to you (fermentation temperature) So if you like to ferment at 20\xb0C for example then you would determine how much out the STC-1000 is out at that temperature and then make the adjustment to F4 based on that. It might still be in error at higher or lower temperatures but that would be of little consequence to your purpose. As Yob said, if the error is as high as 10\xb0C which it seems is the max adjustment ,then the unit should be sent back and replaced. I think you will find the error to be no where near that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Thanks mate. I see F4 is an adjustmet for the difference. I was trying to set F4 at the same as the other digital thermometer. Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 [pinched] ..... F1 is to set the temp but obviously you know that now [joyful] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sven Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Gents, Can you have the fridge connected to the cooling socket and the heat pad connected to the heating socket and let them run together? i.e. have it set at 18 degrees and let the heat pad and fridge run together to keep and cool the fermenter to a stable 18 degrees. Or do you blokes just have the heat pad connected to switch off at, say 18 degrees? Sven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Sven - One or the other runs depending what is required. If the temp gets above you desired range the fridge will kick in to bring it down to the desired temp but if it drops below the desired range the heat source will kick in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sven Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Great. I suppose that is what I'm asking. You can have two devices running at the same time. And they are accurate? I'm heading to Jaycar tomorrow to get my other bits and pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 You can have 2 devices connected at the same time but only 1 (or none) would be running at any particular time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sven Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 The world is smiling and the temperature controller is done, plugged in and working a treat. I've got my fermenter in a fridge which is plugged into the powerpoint I've put in the jiffy box, and I wired the heat pad directly into the temp controller. I'm quite chuffed with how it's come up. Sven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Nice job Sven [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 +1 I like Bill's design best but those un-switched surface socket outlets cost about $8 each at Jaycar and 2m extension leads cost $2.99 each at Bunnings. So I just chop of the female ends and leave them hanging out as connections. The other half (plug top)always get used for something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaynoW Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 I did the same as you John, I just feed the cords out through grommets at the back of the jiffy box. Nice work Sven, I like how neat it looks! Cheers Wayno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 I never bothered with grommets just drilled exact size hole for cable and put some tape around cable on inside so it could not be pulled out. I put one of those cheap($2.54) digital thermometers in mine as well so I can see what is going on with something else or to confirm controller reading. In my bottle conditioning cabinet(freezer compartment) I put the probe for the controller in a bottle full of water and hang the other probe in space. I can then see how hot it is getting in there as well as seeing the liquid temperature in the bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 +1 I like Bill's design best but those un-switched surface socket outlets cost about $8 each at Jaycar and 2m extension leads cost $2.99 each at Bunnings. So I just chop of the female ends and leave them hanging out as connections. The other half (plug top)always get used for something. My latest controller I made has another outlet on the side with a rocker switch on top. This is 240v so I can use it for a fan, or anything else for that matter. The only problem was the switch is not dead straight which bugs me a little but that's only an asthetic thing I need to get over. I had to put the switch on top as I had no room left in the box to house it. Will post pics today or tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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