Jump to content
Coopers Community

Sparkling Ale Recipe - A monster brew!


LazyDave

Recommended Posts

Being a '1 kilo of sugar' and 'maybe the occasional malt' kinda guy, I have gone ballistic and kinda followed the Coopers Sparkling recipe.

 

I found it hard to contemplate 2.5kg of sugars in a brew, thank god I have genuine coopers stubbies to hold these potential mini volcanos.

 

But I am very excited, am praying to the Beer Gods, and currently drooling...

 

Here's my 'close as I could get' recipe...

 

Sparkling Ale Premium + Yeast

290g raw sugar

1720g LME

500g Light Dry Malt Powder (Coppertun)

25c temp

No SG readings

 

I hope this will be my best beer in the world ever, comments please?

 

Although if i've made a serious error, maybe tell me in a week after I've at least tasted it [love]

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes Bill, I will let you know. However I was following the given recipe (almost). If I ever reproduce CSA I will be this happy [biggrin]

 

I recently made the SA with my usual 1kg of sugar only, it is 10 days in the cupboard and comparison taste tests seemed similar, but lacked the taste of the alcohol strengh of a real CSA.

 

The extra fermentables are hopfully going to achieve this.

 

PS: I'm realy glad this message isn't a spelling test - ouchy [rightful]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bottled today after 6 days, all tastes fine.

 

Took a risk and over-primed the bottles. Used 375ml coopers stubbie bottles and gave them 3.5g raw sugar each. Also used 750ml bottles and gave them 7g - hope that's not too much, but I wanted the strengh.

 

They are stored in the shed just in case lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave, NOoooooo.[pinched]

 

Fermentation may not have finished at 6 days and added to that you have increased the priming rate. What FG did you get?

 

The priming rate is for the amount of CO2 only. You have potentially created bottle bombs. Adding to that, you have bottled into glass, including 375ml bottles that are intended for one use only.[pinched] [pinched]

 

 

Chill one down at two weeks and check for fizz level. Then check another one at 3 weeks. If they become too carbonated it may be best to discard what remains. Do not let the bottles get above 30decC, as pressure increases with temp'.

 

All this would not be a big deal if bottling into PET because the pressure can be released easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah whoops, I didn't think it was such a big deal - the guide says 8g of primer per litre, for a 375ml bottle that makes 3g of sugar?

 

It's very warm here, the FV sat in 25-32c for a good 6 days and all went as usual, the brew had settled for at least 2 of those days with no fizzing. Day 4 had traces of fizz only, so it seemed right.

 

Figured the coopers bottles were best as they would be slightly stronger than normal, my 750ml bottles were guenuine XXXX oldies.

 

But not much I can do but pray I guess?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just sit one in the fridge in 2 weeks time, and then another in 4 weeks time and if they a fizzers BE CAREFUL.

 

Also if I am a little worried about them I normally put them in a plastic container so if there are any incidents you dont have a massive mess to clean up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice idea Matty, I have been trying to figure a solution for the odd bomb, that could be the winner.

 

I often thought of masking the bottles up like they did in the war with windows lol, or a rubber sleeve or something.

 

I know PET are more sensible, but they don't fit into my routine very well - they dont fit my bottle rack for drying, they fall over or blow about in the wind - many reasons. Tried it didn't like it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,

 

The best solution I can offer for the odd bottle bomb, to paraphrase PB2, would be to use your hydrometer and only bottle when gravity is stable over two days. I'm aware that some don't have a hydrometer or don't like to go to the trouble of using it, so failing that I'd wait at least 14 days for a big brew like that ferment out fully and I would NEVER over prime.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Borris, thanks for that. I can't get my head around 14 day brews, I would be absolutely paranoid about infection. I would have liked to leave this longer if possible, but the activity was dead for 2 days and small white clouds had started to develop on top of the brew.

 

Maybe this is ok, but it still freaks me out. I use tank water, not town water, so I am constantly on gaurd re infections. The tank water is run through a 1 micron filter however.

 

I have had a few infected beers, and with a thousand and one reasons for that, tank water doesn't help the detective work lol.

 

But the elongated brew is something I realy want to try - maybe it's time for an experiment?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[biggrin]

 

I just don't know what to say to that Dave.

 

I suppose boiling your brew water would be the best place to start. Then you've got to chill 20 odd litres of brew water to pitching temp whilst keeping it sanitary.

 

I'm on town water and haven't had the need to do that before but someone else may be able to tell you where to start.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I guess not too many of us are tank water people. And I can tell you that most of my infected brews are during rainy periods, meaning the tank is getting stirred up and therefore all the crap from th borrom is all through the water - I have noticed this through trial and error, and now no longer brew during rain times.

 

And yes the boiling of 20 litres and cooling is improbable, but I was told 1 micron filters will vanquish all known bugs, except when it rains? [pinched]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I was using tank water I'd definately be boiling it first. You could get a big pot (18L) and fill it and boil it the day before brewing then just leave it to cool. You could do a couple of smaller batches and bottle it to make up your volume. Not a lot of effort just a bit of pre-planning.

 

As for plastic bottles not fitting on your drying rack ther really isn't a great need to dry them. I just store mine with the lids on and give them a blast with no rinse sanitiser before bottling. But I guess you've got to use what suits you [cool]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

11 days in the cupboard - no bombs exploded yet - have drank two - (oops lol) very freakin malty! No signs at all of excess fizz.

 

Missing the aroma (extra hops needed), and cloudyness, but I have a cunning plan for that - keep it to myself for now [bandit]

 

Everything else is pretty close - it's defo strong!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Missing the aroma (extra hops needed), and cloudyness, but I have a cunning plan for that - keep it to myself for now [bandit]

 

Everything else is pretty close - it's defo strong!

 

Hey LazyDave, if you are trying to get close to the real thing, aroma hops are a no-no, there are none in Sparkling Ale, just POR bittering. The flavours come from the yeast.

As for the cloudy part - just tip your bottles a little before pouring and you have a perfect cloudy but fine sparkling ale...

 

I have just tasted my Sparkling Ale (as per recipe) at FG today - awesome! I had to add the kit yeast as the commercial reculture I made conked out at 1030 (again!) Bottling tomorrow.

 

Cheers

 

Dan

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave, the good news is that the Sparkling Ale kit is already bittered with POR so you don't really need to buy any if using the kit.

The yeast re-culture isn't that hard work, I've just found I often don't end up with enough healthy yeast and have to salvage with the kit yeast. The end beer still tastes good to me though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's interesting to me Kearn because I can certainly smell a big difference between the real thing and the kit. I have done the kit on its' own (just 1kg of raw sugar) as well as with this monstor brew (2.5kg of fermentables) and there is definately no trace of the aroma you get from the Coopers Red that you buy off the shelf.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree. It's not possible to make something exactly the same and as good as the Sparkling Ale from a kit. You can make a damn good beer that's similar though.

The bitterness comes from the POR hops, the flavours from yeast derived esters. It's my favourite brewery's flagship product, so I'd be disappointed if I could make something exactly the same in my shed from a can.

The commercial yeast is essential if you want to get close to the aroma of the real thing.

 

Dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...