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LazyDave

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  1. April $14.40 for a can of PA July $16.20 Explanation for a 14% increase please!
  2. I'd already put the extra yeast in before your advice came, so no I'm not disrespecting your advice. I had 2 fails, my neighbour had 2 fails with the new kits, others were mentioning fails, then this one started very slowly and out of character. When you've done something 1000 times, and suddenly something changes, logic tells you something is wrong or different. Logic also says that if I put 5% of a yeast pack in the brew, it's going to start slower? I don't know because direct questions are not answered, such as 'is this yeast slower acting?', so I'm back to logic and second guessing. This thread was started by Coopers, asking for feedback, the next stage of good communication is to acknowledge that feedback - they didn't. Whilst we've been ignored, they've now redesigned the whole kit, and I'm told these were random isolated cases? I'm just their target customer, I brew their beer and spend over $1000 a year with them, so when I point out somethings wrong, maybe I could get some respect for that, rather than have it fall on deaf ears? Seems you don't like it, why should I? Ain't got the time for this second guessing.
  3. Hmmm oh la de da, so now my replacement cans are probably useless as suspected, omg. I think it was 29th December Lusty posed the question about the glue guns being hot for the yeast, and maybe mid Feb when I pointed out that the yeast wasn't working. Disbelief and derision from forum members, no replies from Coopers, and boom, all is revealed and everyone is thanking Coopers. Slight notes of sycophant. Maybe Coopers should try listening to people that actually brew their beer?
  4. Ok thanks for that explanation PB2. There's definately a distinct difference in krausen, going from 4 or 5 inches of Swiss Alps with the old cans, to a flat moon with the new cans is a radical change for me. So if, as Lusty says, this is due to a different yeast strain, then I'll deal with that now I can understand some reasoning for it.
  5. Fizz volume lol, I use a cling film seal, so I can put my ear to that and hear the activity in the brew, and I know from experience what to expect. The more/the louder the more activity. Are you telling us that this new ranges' yeast is very slow acting? Because it's coming across as about 5 times slower than previous yeast sachets. This brew did exactly the same as the previous one, that one never got started and was chucked out. I can't believe a yeast can be that slow at 22c, it's more logical to think 95% of the yeast was dead, and the slow start was the yeast playing catch up.
  6. Morrie - nice email mate, well put, and hopefully a response worthy of the respect you gave. Otto, thanks for the advice mate. I realise what you say about some yeasts being slow to react, in fact that was my thought the first time it all went wrong. Thinking the range has changed, maybe this yeast performs slower, even at 22c etc. However that brew never started, so this time I wasn't taking chances. Currently the brew looks exactly as it should, bubbles settled, fizz back to volume 5, krausen threatening to build and should be good by morning - ie a PROPER fermentation. And of course, I was making a 'naked' brew, no additives so I could see what Coopers were offering. Now this has been compromised with stout yeast, so I'm back to the drawing board whatever happens. This is the s**t that I'm having trouble dealing with. I want to know what is on offer, and I want to get back to stabilised brewing in that I know what I've got and what I want to do with it. 6 weeks after receiving the new batches, and I know nothing, in fact I've gone backwards. So yeah, If some people think this is being negative, I think I'm being more than patient! Cheers for the advice :)
  7. Need some advice here, 24 hours ago I set down my replacement Brew AIPA, and got a flat moon of browny/white marbled mush, hardly a krausen, with about a 2cm gap around the edge of the FV. (I used dry malt this time). I could hear faint fizzing, Like at volume level 2. So I've now chucked in the only yeast I had available spare, which was an Irish Stout yeast, as soon as it hit the brew it went mental, fizz volume went to 8, and big white creamy almost ugly looking bubbles started popping up. I've never had to add extra yeast, so I hope this is normal? The other thing is that the 'moon' that I had has now risen to a thin white pavlova and is now covering the circumference of the FV, and I'd say it's looking good. My layman's deduction would be that maybe only 5% of the yeast was viable, and had escaped the glue burn? It was going to be a slow process waiting for it to kick in. In 24 hours I normally have swiss alps krausen and a fizz volume of about 5. Nothing to lose I suppose, but would be nice to know if this sounds normal.
  8. I've reused twist top tallie bottles 200 times over and yes they can become weak, but that's a surprising reuse amount considering they have 'do not refill' on them, so yeah it's a disclaimer. However if you bottle too early, you are in big trouble. I bottled a non-coopers kit too early once and had about 5 bombs go off, it took the full PPE of anarak, safety glasses, hood and scarf to remove them all from the cupboard. I have also had 4 or 5 explode and leave glass embedded in the wall 2 meters away. I put that down to weakness, although one was caused because the bottles were stored touching each other (try to leave a 1cm gap between bottles). Also had one collapse as I capped it. So that's a death rate of about 0.001%, you'd have to be unlucky to cop one, but it would be far from healthy. My answer was to trade them for Coopers tallies, as their bottles are naturally stronger in order to cope with the bottle conditioned beer, I'd say they may be stronger than your typical older XXXX tallie etc, as XXXX was never bottle conditioned, therefore could never explode. It's took a while at $50 a dozen to get to 250 tallies in stock, but I got to drink the Coopers beer, it was a real hardship lol. Plus while you are drinking those, your own beer is maturing for longer. If I was starting out I would go keg system, you are not going to lose your face from a bomb and bottle washing is the biggest chore. It's the same weight in learning curve, just different. The only downside to kegging is how portable you want your beer, because you have to decant it if you have a brew shed away from the house, or go out a lot etc.
  9. Hi Ale, I'd be interested to know what quantities you are thinking of using. The 60g I read above are quite radical for my book. I've reduced my dry hopping to between 10-15g as it is more than enough for me, but people have different tastes. The main difference is expense, and replacement. I'm buying hops in 1kg lots now, it's so much cheaper, but at 60g a brew this still wouldn't last long, and it can be difficult replenishing supply due to season etc. So wise old man would say start small :) I find Amarillo best in the brew, then cascade for the dry hop, that gives you the best chance of achieving the characteristics of each hop within the same brew, (one for bitterness, one for aroma).
  10. At nearly $20 a can, I'm a bit lost on why you would buy this brew, then buy separate yeast, and then add your own hops. I've been told you can just buy LME, add yeast and hops and have beer. If that's true, then why pay $20 for a kit? Just wondering. Brotherboy - I agree with everything you say. I always thought the saving grace for Coopers was the fact they were never a multinational blob company, but at the other end of that coin, mis management is also just as possible because it's all just a bit of a laugh. I'm watching standards slipping fast, whether it is customer service or recognition of feedback. It pisses me off, because I would prefer the ideal of a family company that does the right thing, and Coopers had that not so long ago. There's a wheel in a ditch somewhere, Coopers need to find it and put it back on.
  11. There are some odd variables involved. 28c could simply be the mean temperature, it could be hitting 36 during some parts of the day, no one really knows the temps involved inside, especially a fast ferment with an ambient of 28c - inside the FV could be anything. Also wonder what water is being used - is it spring water or chlorinated water? I use rainwater, so maybe I need to be more careful. Town water tends to be less susceptible naturally because it's effectively sterile in the first place. A lot of campers, therefore boaties, use council provided water, which can come from anywhere, including bores, so who knows what's hiding in there. I have also been told there is no difference between bottle and FV once the beer has finished, so no point risking the FV when a bottle is a sterilized environment.
  12. Treated myself to a 6 pack of this Artisan Reserve for Christmas, and still have 5 stubbies left, so yeah, that's not right is it? lol I believe the term is 'barn floor' which is what we all got from it, I've been too scared to open another one. Anyone know if that's how it's meant to be? I'm still crying to think I chose this instead of Celebration Ale :(
  13. Hi Gunnado, I live in QLD and have got used to brewing in crazy temperatures. The best system is a wet towel around the FV and then a small fan close to it, that's effectively air con for beer. The worry I get from your post is saying 2 days of fizz at 28 degrees, but beer not ready after 8 days? That's completely odd for my world. At those temps (not that I allow 28c) it would be natural for the process to stop after 2 days, but the beer should be ready in 5 or 6 days. Leaving it for 8 or 9 days would ruin it for sure. (This is just my experience, and will more than likely be shot down, but there you go). Just hard for me to believe that you are not getting two days of the same reading on days 5 and 6. Currently (summer), I can maintain 22c with fans and a/c as necessary, which gives me 4 days of activity, then readings will be matched on days 6 and 7.
  14. Oh and this might be a good spot to give my opinion on the new style cans. First I don't understand the 'dumbed down' design that makes it look like the cheapest on the shelf, when it is one of the most expensive you will find in a HBS. The old cans had a real style about them and looked worth the money. They were also instantly recognisable by the glut of independant colouring of the label, now I have to read each one to double check I have the one I want. I assume there's some major European export expansion going on judging by the fact the back label is a mass of country flags and almost irrelevant info, whereas the actual instructions for the brewing are on the inside of the label. After the usual fight to remove the label, I noticed perforations designed to rip the label off conveniently, but it wasn't, and scissors won the day, after the usual trying not to cut my fingers off in the process. And I shall forever miss my Coopers brewing label which was the warm fuzzy of the entire brew process. I still have hundreds of them with brewing records for future reference. Alas now I have to tear the label off, (whilst I still have some fingers), and write on it very quickly before my pen gives up on the label wax. It's the simple things that make the difference. All in all, whoever designed these things must have been a clear winner in the lowest quote category, and the image of Coopers has gone down about 5 pegs. And as for replacing an entire range of brews, well I've spent years of experimentation learning which brews work for me, which don't. Even to the point of learning how the ones that don't can be made to work with the right sugar and hop additions. Now I have to start all over again, making each one naked, working out what it may need, and experimenting for 4 or 5 brews before I get it suited to me. I sincerely hope I need do nothing, since I am now paying 4-5 bucks more for the privilege of all this extra homework. And as for no more basic IPA - (scream loudly)
  15. Hi Morrie, some late answers to your questions... Not much point going into brewing setup, I keep things simple and the same consistently, I brew an FV once every 6 days for the last 10 years, I've had maybe 15-20 contaminated brews, but never a failed start up (I use Coopers 98% of the time). I had a failed startup with the Bootmaker, then 3 successful older can brews followed by another failed startup with the Brew A IPA. Therefore I was immediately alerted to a problem. I bought my brews online, so I only got the glued pack of yeast, the people that got the freebies from this thread were sent 2 packs of yeast - no explanation for that has been given yet. I wrote to Coopers via the email PB2 stated above, and also through the website, I imagine the former email worked. When I received my first new brews I was surprised to encounter the glued yeast. At first I thought it was because we finally had two ended cans that we could open both ends, and no need to store them upside down anymore, however why use the same plastic cap system if you glue the yeast? I assume those plastic caps were designed to allow a yeast packet to reside in the lid without glue, so that would suggest the glue problem had been identified before - to the point where a special plastic cap was required to secure it, and cans needed to be stored upside down (because you could only open them from the bottom), which was always a bit weird. If I was a detective, I'd say Coopers wanted to get away from the expensive plastic rip cap, so they glued the yeast and expected to put a plain cap on the tins. I'd say that idea turned out too expensive or they were already set up for the rip cap, so they reverted back to the rip cap. This meant the glue was no longer required anymore, but it had been put into the process so they went with it. (This may all have been worked out 20 years ago about the glue affecting the yeast which is why the rip cap was invented). Therefore someone screwed up, didn't do their homework, and is hiding under the bedsheets. We're supposed to be a family, mistakes are ok, just admit them and be forgiven. PS: I have been ordering online for 6-7 years, often cans are dented, once or twice they have been a real pain to open, but dents are quite common, so I'd agree with the theory that dented cans get sent for online orders. I've opened liquid malt cans that had a bit of bacteria/mold in the corner of them - it's possible air had got through, but you just sterilise with boiling water and suck it up.
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