MichaelM32 Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Hi all Having spent quite a bit of time trying to soak up all the advice here, I have had my first home brew under way since last Sunday (today is Saturday - day 6). It's the Coopers lager home kit and I've tried to follow the instructions to the word with this being my first attempt. I know I made a slight mistake in that I put in 24 litres, rather than 23, but everything else I am fairly confident I got right. The OG was 1.039. I took off the collar on day 4 and otherwise haven't touched it. The temperature in my garage is quite warm at around 25/26 degrees so I was expecting fermentation to go quite quickly and be ready towards the earlier end of the 4-7 days that the instructions refer to. Now the issue - when I take a gravity reading, I don't seem to be able to get a consistent number. Am I supposed to take the reading immediately on drawing the sample or should I give it time to settle? Today I seemed to get a low number at first (around 1010) but then it seems to be settling at a higher number (at 1027). Is there a correct technique for reading the gravity? If 1027 is correct, I had expected it to have fallen more by now - is it possible something is going wrong, any reason for it to be going slowly and do I just give it more time? [unsure] Any wise words greatly appreciated !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 you need to spin it and or tap it onto the bottom to dislodge the bubbles that will tend to cling to it and lift it in the sample tube. I tend to leave mine to sit for 15 mins or so before taking the reading, if you leavi it sitting in there bubbles will cling to it giving an inaccurate reading, a tap or spin (lift and spin) should fix this. also, those temps are too high mate... have a look through some of the topics here (recent ones even) and throw away the instructions that come with the kit, they arent worth the paper they are printed on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelM32 Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Thanks - that seems to be what I was doing - I tried it again (slowly getting through the extra litre I put in!) and I get 1010 which seems much more like it. I was a bit worried about the temperature being high, but with this being my first attempt and because it was under 27, which the video said was ok, I thought I'd run with it before coming up with refrigeration techniques for next time... Part of the problem is that my girlfriend insists on parking her car in the garage, and the engine warmth heats the air. If this first brew doesn't taste good, then she might have to start making more sacrifices towards the next one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Brew Master Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Welcome to the forum Michael. Do you draw off about 100 mil or so before you take your reading? The first drawing will have alot of sediment in it & would give you a false reading. Also do what Yob said. Cheers, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelM32 Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Hi Peter. Yes - I did draw off some for the first reading; I forgot the second time around, but as I'd thought I'd got it wrong, I repeated the reading, so I ended up having done it by accident anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Part of the problem is that my girlfriend insists on parking her car in the garage' date=' and the engine warmth heats the air. If this first brew doesn't taste good, then she might have to start making more sacrifices towards the next one. Sorry but its not a case of "if" unfortunately. It will be crap. However, don't let this put you off as you can brew good beer if done correctly. I suggest not to use the Lager for your next one and reduce the Dextrose and get that temperature under control. Then you will have a drinkable brew and should be happy with it. [cool] Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT5 Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 (slowly getting through the extra litre I put in!) Does this mean you are replacing the volume from your samples with new water? If this is the case you are introducing a possible infection source into your brew. I usually take a sample when I mix up the brew for OG, then leave it for about 10 days before I take another one. Then I take one on days 13 & 14 to ensure fermentation has completed then bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 I think he means the fact he put in 24lt not 23, I didnt read anything to suggest he was replacing the volume of Hydrometer samples. Makes me wonder why the Lager can is the default for the DIY given that nobody, in my experience, discovers anything about temp control UNTIL their first brew was done at 27 and tastes "less than ideal" aka like camel urine blended with VB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 If this is the case you are introducing a possible infection source into your brew. How so? It's the same water he has used in the brew in the first place yeah? The fact is that the yeast has already become the dominant organism there and is/has already out-competed everything else, though not good in principal, I argue it's unlikely to create infection. Possible? Yeah I guess, Likely? No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
***** Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 ..... Makes me wonder why the Lager can is the default for the DIY given that nobody, in my experience, discovers anything about temp control UNTIL their first brew was done at 27 and tastes "less than ideal" .... I would have a guess and say that the DIY kit is designed to contain the least bitter beer and the cheapest cost, so that it nobody finds it too bitter and profits are maximised. Anyway I now realise how lucky I was with my kit. I struggled to actually make 16'C and fermeted at between 16 and 18'C and bottled after 11 days. I shared plenty around and everyone was impressed with the beer. I had very similar results with the Pale Ale and the Blonde same temps and all with BE1. For my tastes I find that my beer got progressively better with hop boils and the steeping of grains, however it is here that I find others baulking at my beer (I don't really mind that, more for me [biggrin]). Just Saturday night I offered my mate who was drinking XXXX gold a taste of my Mornington Pale Ale (one of my best beers yet), I had enough with me for him but he opted to continue with the XXXX. My daughter's partner has tried most of my brews and wants me to make him my basic blonde recipe, no hops or grains just Draught, LME and Dex. Here in Tassie Cascade Draught and XXXX Gold are the biggest sellers, American Pale Ales and other Craft beers aren't for everyone. I am sure that the marketing gurus at Coopers know exactly what they are doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 I recall PB2 mentioning that the Coopers Lager kit was their biggest seller. So there is definitely a market for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Yeah they sell one can in the price with every kit. [pinched] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT5 Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Yob, sorry to give incorrect info on here. I misinterpreted Michael's post about the extra litre. When I mentioned about possible infection I was referring to previous posts which advise to add cooled, boiled water to a brew (as in the toucan stout). I assumed this was to reduce the chance of possible infection. My apologies. [crying] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 No need to apologise Greg. People are on here talking crap all the time (I'm one of the main culprits). Welcome to the club [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Nay Bother at all.. re the boiled cooled water.. [roll] the only boiled cooled water that gets pitched into my (kit) brews is the water I used to either rehydrate or rinse my yeast, to be honest I think my first 2 brews that I ever did I used 2x10lt spring water or something... (both which sucked a fair chunk of dogs nuts) after that its been tap water all the way and Ive never had an infection (1 suspect brew I threw out but doesnt count as infection)... unless you are on bush tap water,(even then debatable except for bore water [sick] )or have any other specific reason (like say, gives you piece of mind etc) its just another process and adds cost to the brew (time + power) and is in large a waste of effort, in my opinion that is... I dont actually discourage anyone to do it if it works for them and they are happy doing so, cool. At least they are REALLY thinking hard about sanitation [ninja] ..(usually).. and thats where the no rinse sanitisers come into their own, designed to be used in tap water to kill pretty much EVERYTHING [love] in there and in starsan case breaks down to yeast food... food I tells ya!! [lol] getting a bit off topic her so will stop rambling... [lol] ah yeah... and what Bill said about the temps [rightful] I knew I could finish on topic [innocent] Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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