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Coopers Draught


GaryM6

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Hi Gary,

 

The OS Draught is my favourite kit for Pale Ales. A really simple but very good recipe would be:

 

1.7Kg OS Draught

1Kg LDM

200g Dex

25g Nelson Sauvin (dry hop)

23L water

US-05 Brewed @ 18-20C

 

Some light Crystal Malt would be nice for more body and head retention but this would require a 30min steep and then a boil.[roll]

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No problem, Gary![cool]

 

The original version of this little recipe was hopped with Cascade which give a fresh, citris aroma. It was a popular recipe a few months back around here. The Nelson S. should give you a nice, strong, woodsy[unsure] aroma. With the addition of the crystal as I mentioned earlier, say around 250g. This would make a killer Pale ale![cool] I might just give it a go myself![lol]

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nice to know, I blew up my car on Sat and couldnt get any grain, so shopping Sunday I picked up a Draught Can...

 

Im a brew sl_t!! Im happy only when Ive got something fermenting [lol]

 

Going to Pimp the bottom off it naturally[rightful]

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Some light Crystal Malt would be nice for more body and head retention but this would require a 30min steep and then a boil.[roll]

 

Hi there,

 

Does this mean steep the grain then boil it, how long do you boil it for.

 

Cheers

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Does this mean steep the grain then boil it' date=' how long do you boil it for.[/quote']

You steep the grain for 30 minutes, remove the grain and boil the liquid for around 5 minutes.

 

Most of the time I will boil the liquid but sometimes when I am just doing a simple kit beer I couldn't be stuffed. I just pour the liquid into the FV after steeping.

 

I know you are supposed to boil to kill any nasties etc but I have never had a problem with that method.

 

Maybe I just like the thrill of taking risks [innocent]

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Heres one ive done in the past that I quite liked.

 

TC draught can

1KG LDME

250g Dextrose

12g cascade @ 10min

12g Nelson @ 10min

12g cascade @ 0 min

12g Nelson at 0 min

 

Steep 0 min additions for about 10min.

Has a nice fruity taste to it and crisp bitterness from the extra cascade and NS.

 

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and boil the liquid for around 5 minutes.

 

cough... 15 min mate to kill the nasties...

 

in fact to 'properly' sterilise by boiling water (taps etc) you need to boil 3 times over 3 days, you wont kill spores and cysts in a single boil.

 

every so often I give all my taps this treatment.. in fact I did this recently, gives me a warm fuzzy feeling when I KNOW my taps are sterilised... oh actually, that was probably the beer [lol]

 

[rightful]

 

edit: LINKY

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Odds are that yeast will become the dominant organism in the brew, however, people should know how to effectivly srerilise equipment and pasteurize wort, I'd hate to lose a brew over 10 minute simmer, besides, it gives extra time to add more hops! [roll]

 

Slightly off topic but I picked some fresh chinook flowers and had them in my glass, frikkin awesome[love]

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and boil the liquid for around 5 minutes.

 

cough... 15 min mate to kill the nasties...

 

in fact to 'properly' sterilise by boiling water (taps etc) you need to boil 3 times over 3 days, you wont kill spores and cysts in a single boil.

 

every so often I give all my taps this treatment.. in fact I did this recently, gives me a warm fuzzy feeling when I KNOW my taps are sterilised... oh actually, that was probably the beer [lol]

 

[rightful]

 

edit: LINKY

The process you are referring to Yob is Tyndallization which I am sure you knew [joyful]

 

There are actually a number of methods to achieve Sterilization effectively, one of which is Tyndallization. [rightful]

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Slightly off topic but I picked some fresh chinook flowers and had them in my glass, frikkin awesome[love]

 

Yob, I think I've seen you mention hop plants/vines before. How hard are they to grow and how do you get hold of them? Disregard this if I am thinking of the wrong person.[pouty]

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Yob, I think I've seen you mention hop plants/vines before. How hard are they to grow and how do you get hold of them? Disregard this if I am thinking of the wrong person.[pouty]

 

Yep probably was me... They are essentially a weed so are easy to grow, throw them in the ground, water them and you get hops, alot of first year hop plants produce very little, as the seasons roll on you will end up with more than you know what to do with.

 

During Winter the plants go dormant, the roots can be dug up and a section cut off which is called a rhizome, simply plant this in spring and away you go, At the right time you can them from ebay or a number of other places and forums, I got mine from a fellow forum member over at AHB and another member gave me some other ones, I got yet more off a fellow whose AG mash tun I bought,

 

They can also be grown from cuttings and there is evidence that this may well be a better way to go.

 

The most important thing to understand is just how much space they require or they will grow into each other and you will not know what is what, minimum 2 meters between each variety, clearly multiples of the same can be grown together.

 

they can also grow up to 6 or 7 meters in height. My Hop trellis is about 3 to 4 meters in height and I will need to redesign it for next season.

 

Hope this helps.

 

LINKY to the AHB 2011 Hop Plantations Thread, 40 odd pages of info, happy reading mate.

 

Yob

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We cannot sterilise in our home breweries but we can sanitise. The difference is the number of bugs that remain.

 

The taps that I put through the previously mentioned Tyndallization process are certainly sterilised.

 

They go from the sterilisation jar to the Starsan Solution and into the FV which is sanitised.

So it should be said that you cannot Sterilise ALL of the equipment in the Home Brewery but certain things certainly can.

 

Pressure cookers etc can also Sterilise equipment.

 

Yob

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