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Bittering Coopers cans


ChairmanDrew

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I recently made a couple of brews, one of them loosely following this recipe.. https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/ipa.html

I've found the results to be exceedingly bitter, and not pleasant. I'm going off the idea of adding any bittering element to a pre-hopped can.

 

Is it better to just stick to hop tea and dry hopping when using pre-hopped cans?

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2 hours ago, ChairmanDrew said:

I recently made a couple of brews, one of them loosely following this recipe.. https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/ipa.html

I've found the results to be exceedingly bitter, and not pleasant. I'm going off the idea of adding any bittering element to a pre-hopped can.

 

Is it better to just stick to hop tea and dry hopping when using pre-hopped cans?

If you don't like the extra bitterness yes stick to dry hopping or teas where the water has been allowed to cool for a bit first.

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7 hours ago, ChairmanDrew said:

I recently made a couple of brews, one of them loosely following this recipe.. https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/ipa.html

I've found the results to be exceedingly bitter, and not pleasant. I'm going off the idea of adding any bittering element to a pre-hopped can.

 

Is it better to just stick to hop tea and dry hopping when using pre-hopped cans?

Hey Drew, One of the comments you will see regularly is that tastes can vary when it comes to beer.  The fact you found the IPA too bitter is a good reference point for your brewing/drinking.

A handy ratio to look at is Bitterness Units : Grain Units.  That is the ratio of IBU's/OG (in a whole number).  So in the case of the IPA it is something like 48/46 = 1.04.  Anything over 1.0 is a high BU:GU ratio.  Admittedly, it is what you should expect for a traditional IPA. 

In your case, for future reference, you can look at that ratio and get a feel for whether you might find the brew too bitter for your tastes.  To compensate you can either dial back the bitterness or add some extra fermentables.

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Looking at the descriptions on the cans...

 

Real Ale: "Pleasant blend of fruit and malt on the nose with generous mouthfeel and a moderately bitter finish."

Draught: "Light yellow-gold colour with a tightly packed white head, floral nose with a hint of malt, medium bodied palate with delicate hopping and a slightly bitter finish."

Lager: "Light floral aromas follow through on a light to medium bodied palate with subtle malt and hop flavours and a clean finish."

 

From "moderately bitter", to "slightly bitter" and then "subtle hop flavours", I'm guessing the Lager is the less bitter of the products?

 

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22 hours ago, ChairmanDrew said:

Just found on the V2 spreadsheet that the basic can recipes had been added, along with IBU. So I guess that answers my previous question:

Real Ale: 30

Draught: 23

Lager: 21

I'm not sure what version I used to look at if it's the same as now. There was a part that explained bitterness loss due to older tin of goo. Something between 10 to 30% bitterness loss due to product age.

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On 11/4/2023 at 8:21 AM, Uhtred Of Beddanburg said:

I'm not sure what version I used to look at if it's the same as now. There was a part that explained bitterness loss due to older tin of goo. Something between 10 to 30% bitterness loss due to product age.

This sounds like you've spliced a couple of memories Uhtred.  Bitterness compounds will oxidize over time, lowering the perceived bitterness of the beer, but measured bitterness (AAU's) will be the same as when it was brewed here. In the FAQ's we explain why the total bitterness of a can of hopped malt extract is given, rather than expected final bitterness of a  beer brewed with that product.  We then provide the formula to derive the potential bitterness: Product bitterness x 1.7 / Brew volume = Brew Bitterness before fermentation

We then go on to explain that bitterness will be lower post-fermentation: This figure represents the brew bitterness prior to fermentation. Generally, fermentation reduces bitterness by between 10% to 30%.  Cheers, Frank.   

 

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