JohnR13 Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Hi, New to the forum and just started brewing again after a long layoff. I am going to try the Coopers extra strong, which is on this website, but am confused about the Nelson Hops. It says in the recipe to put the hops in a mesh bag and put them on the wort before sealing the tub. The brew shop where I bought the hops said to boil them and then strain the hops through a mesh bagand then remove them before adding the cold water. Their explaination was that throwing then straight in the brew cold would give no benefit. Can anyone help me with this? Regards John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PB2 Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 John, welcome to the Brewers Guild! There are many ways to utilise hops in beer. In this case, I recommend you follow the method described in the ESVA recipe. Boiling the hops will extract bitterness. We don't want any more bitterness in this recipe. There is ample bitterness supplied by the 2 beer kit cans to achieve simlar bitterness levels to our commercial Vintage Ale. Rather, we are looking to get mainly aroma and a little flavour from the hops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Hi John and welcome to the forum. It doesn't matter what your LHBS said, if you want a beer close to the original then you really need to listen to what PB2 says as he is the guru around here and is in the know [wink] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnR13 Posted August 11, 2011 Author Share Posted August 11, 2011 Thanks Guys, I brewed successfully for 10years but stopped 7-8 years ago. Back then I usually stuck with the standard kits and have never used hops or other additives, feeling a little more adventurios second time around! Do you just place the hops in the tied off mesh bag straight on top of the wort after sprinkling on the yeast? Regards John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty A Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Welcome John, Thats pretty much it. I normally do it before I put the yeast in but it wont really make much differance. Also Paul (PB2) works at the Coopers brewery, so he has a pretty big knowledge of this stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weggl Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 John I made this one for my son inlaw he reckons it is A1,I have not tasted it as yet, but he's a prety good judge CAN REAL ALE -CAN PALE ALE BE1 200DEX-250DME 30g CASCADE DRY AFTER YEAST COOPERS CULTURED YEAST 21.5L Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnR13 Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 G'Day Guys, I've put down this brew on Friday as per Coopers instructions and it's sitting at about 18-19'C. If I maintain this temp how long would ferment take on a two can brew, ie. when should I start taking readings to get two contant SG's in a row? Also I'd like to do the Toucan stout mentioned on these forums, will that also have an ABV of around 7.5% and ferment in a similar way to the ESVA I'm doing now? Appreciate any advice. Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty A Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 As for looking for FG. I normally don't look until the brew has been in the fermenter 2 weeks, and thats for all of my brews. I then wait 2 days and check again. Leaving it in the fermenter can help clear it up for when it is in the bottle. As for the toucan stout, it will ferment similar but I have always made a mess when brewing it because it is like a volcano of foam. If you have the DIY fermenter it shouldnt be a problem tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.