shitsngiggles Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Just wondering what/how/details everybody is using to control FV fridge temps. I have just set up an STC1000 which has made life easy, before it arrived I was just using a timer and manually checking and adjusting off/on intervals to maintain temp. What I am curious about now with the STC1000 is fine tuning the settings to avoid temp fluctuations that could have ill effect on the brew. My settings are (for target range 18-20 degrees): Set temp = 19 degrees Difference = 0.5 degrees Compressor allowance = 3 mins Whats everybody else using ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 My settings are Set temp = whatever I'm fermenting at. Usually 18C for ales, 10C for lagers, but sometimes it varies. Difference = 0.3 C Compressor delay = 7 or 8 mins I think. I also tape the probe to the side of the FV underneath some packing foam so it measures the brew temp rather than the ambient air in the fridge, since the brew temp is what I'm wanting to control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 HI, If I want to ferment at 18, I set the temperature at 17.8 with 0.5 degree hysterisis. So when the fridge cools, it cools down to 17.8 and then the temperature rises to 18.3 before kicking on. I figure this leaves it, on average closer to 18 degrees without tightening the hysterisis too much. I am paranoid about having the fridge kick on and off in short cycles. In summer I have the compressor delay longer. I am finding I only overshoot 0.1 degree in my setup. Remember that the error in your sensors is around 0.5 degrees even though the resolution is 0.1. To get good accuracy you need to verify your temperature reading at fermentation temperatures and use the error correction if required. This is something I am yet to do as I don't have anything more accurate to check against. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beeblebrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Still much more accurate than those of us that don't have a brew fridge, or a place to put it. You can still produce a pretty decent beer without a brew fridge or without such accuracy. I wouldn't sweat it if you can manage an accuracy of within 1c or so. Those of us without brew fridges don't have such luxury. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibbo Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 I use BrewPi to control my temps -- can either use a static setpoint or set up temperature profiles to suit the yeast I'm using. Pretty much everything else aside from temperature is controlled by the scripts, though I think the hysteresis is a bit less than 0.3° C and the minimum fridge delays are 3 mins ON and 5 minutes OFF. The temperature profiles were one of the main reasons I went with BrewPi over an STC, but the ability to log in from anywhere in the world and check on my beer (or change temperatures/profiles on the fly) was the clincher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Still much more accurate than those of us that don't have a brew fridge' date=' or a place to put it.You can still produce a pretty decent beer without a brew fridge or without such accuracy. I wouldn't sweat it if you can manage an accuracy of within 1c or so. Those of us without brew fridges don't have such luxury.[/quote'] I hear you. But it's about getting the most out of what you have. I only just recently got temperature control and would use the thermometer strip and manually turning the fridge on and off as required. At times I had temperature swings. I still had good beer and better than fermenting at summer ambient temperatures. But if you have something, you really do want to maximise its use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpack Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 It's my conditioning bottles i worry about. Currently coping 30 degree temps. Interested to see what they taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 HI' date='Remember that the error in your sensors is around 0.5 degrees even though the resolution is 0.1. To get good accuracy you need to verify your temperature reading at fermentation temperatures and use the error correction if required. This is something I am yet to do as I don't have anything more accurate to check against.[/quote'] That's a good point too. I test mine every few brews against my mash thermometer and adjust the calibration setting on it if required. This keeps it reading pretty accurately. It can't be too far off in any case, because the beers are turning out really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Chop Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Still much more accurate than those of us that don't have a brew fridge' date=' or a place to put it.You can still produce a pretty decent beer without a brew fridge or without such accuracy. I wouldn't sweat it if you can manage an accuracy of within 1c or so. Those of us without brew fridges don't have such luxury.[/quote'] I'm tending to agree that it would not be all that super critical with the slight variations in a temp controlled fridge. I also use a swamp T shirt type setup and my beer comes out fine. I will admit I am getting a little tired of constantly fussing over my fermenter in the attempt to keep in under 20C this time of year. The biggest improvement in my beer came with my discovery of the correct temperature range to brew within. I have read many times it being said that a brew fridge is one of best things you can use to improve your beers and I still don't have one but I did make up an STC controller. At the end of this week I have to stop drinking all alcohol for six weeks for a blood test so I'm planning on doing some brews in my beer fridge over that time and I'll get to see/taste the results in March. First one to go in it will be the bookmaker pale made to recipe so I can post my report and compare it with others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 And with electronic temperature control you can get consistency. If you get a result which isn't quite right with a brew, you can change/tweak the recipe and know that your fermentation temperatures are not the issue. You can change 1 variable and hold all other conditions constant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitsngiggles Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Great to hear what others are doing and the opinions. Am not stressing some much about small fluctuations now and have made some minor adjustments, lowered the set temp to 18 and .3 for difference/hysteriwhatevers, seems to be popular - from reading other threads I get the idea that the lower you keep the temp suited to the yeast type the cleaner the brew. I will have a go at calibrating with a laser temp gun i have once the current brew comes out, I have noticed at least 1 degree difference between the strip and the STC, I do have the probe taped to the FV so thought they should be close, however i don't think the strips would be entirely accurate or reliable, more an indicator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Great to hear what others are doing and the opinions. Am not stressing some much about small fluctuations now and have made some minor adjustments' date=' lowered the set temp to 18 and .3 for difference/hysteriwhatevers, seems to be popular - from reading other threads I get the idea that the lower you keep the temp suited to the yeast type the cleaner the brew. I will have a go at calibrating with a laser temp gun i have once the current brew comes out, I have noticed at least 1 degree difference between the strip and the STC, I do have the probe taped to the FV so thought they should be close, however i don't think the strips would be entirely accurate or reliable, more an indicator?[/quote'] Yeah the strips are not accurate. A guide only. It is worth finding out if your STC 1000 is a A_400 P model. If it is, then it is possible to flash it with the STC 1000+ firmware. Then you can save fermentation profiles and ramp temperatures. Plus the temperature calculation algorithm is pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitsngiggles Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 How do I find out if its the A_400P model? I have checked the unit, the box and the instructions and noting on it has a model number .... guessing it's a cheap copy, i did only pay $14.95 on FleaBay for it. I don't mind too much it is doing a great job and is easy to adjust/reset when needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 How do I find out if its the A_400P model? I have checked the unit' date=' the box and the instructions and noting on it has a model number .... guessing it's a cheap copy, i did only pay $14.95 on FleaBay for it. I don't mind too much it is doing a great job and is easy to adjust/reset when needed.[/quote'] You need to cut the sticker at the top so you can unclip the grey case at the purple tab. But before you do that; they usually have rubber ends on their temperature probes and the gap between the terminals for the mains supply and the temperature probe is always tiny in the flashable model. If the gap between the green terminal blocks is wide there is no point opening it right up. If it's flashable the ramping is well worth the effort. As you say, they do a great job considering the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitsngiggles Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 How do I find out if its the A_400P model? I have checked the unit' date=' the box and the instructions and noting on it has a model number .... guessing it's a cheap copy, i did only pay $14.95 on FleaBay for it. I don't mind too much it is doing a great job and is easy to adjust/reset when needed.[/quote'] You need to cut the sticker at the top so you can unclip the grey case at the purple tab. But before you do that; they usually have rubber ends on their temperature probes and the gap between the terminals for the mains supply and the temperature probe is always tiny in the flashable model. If the gap between the green terminal blocks is wide there is no point opening it right up. If it's flashable the ramping is well worth the effort. As you say, they do a great job considering the price. Ok sorry to be a PITA but still not sure - see photo (if it worked?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitsngiggles Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 https://www.coopers.com.au/static/media/attachments/1453273214_15_594.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 https://www.coopers.com.au/static/media/attachments/1453273214_15_594.JPG I'd be opening that bad boy up for a peek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitsngiggles Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 OK sorry ... just mucking about trying to figure out how to post pics .... Woohoo it worked .... look out Mark Zuckerberg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitsngiggles Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 I'd be opening that bad boy up for a peek. What am I looking for inside, is there a port or terminal or something? and what sort of cable and software or device do I need to connect/flash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitsngiggles Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Ahhhh ... roger that ... will go a peekin shortly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 I'd be opening that bad boy up for a peek. What am I looking for inside' date=' is there a port or terminal or something? and what sort of cable and software or device do I need to connect/flash [/quote'] Here is the full explanation. https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p You need this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-USB-Nano-V3-0-ATmega328-5V-16M-Micro-controller-CH340G-board-For-Arduino-Ne-/321754759137?hash=item4aea13ffe1:g:X9QAAOSwBahVVGxC http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10CM-Male-To-Male-40X-Dupont-Jumper-Wire-Ribbon-Cable-Breadboard-For-Arduino-Pop-/201501157904?hash=item2eea67aa10:g:ZvUAAOSwFqJWk0Gt http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-2-54mm-Single-Row-Female-Pitch-Header-Socket-Connector-Pin-Strip-/130905219470?var=&hash=item1e7a8f218e:m:mK--SawJEPkNwuYQHgx8NPQ 5 pin variety. You need to go here: https://04377c9983bdba740a8b0c997fe97f76c5789b26.googledrive.com/host/0B7OSUyUx3xJzUVlLdkFyQ1lMLTg/hextabbed.html select STC 1000+ vanilla version Edit the profiles, check the graph looks like what you want and download. You need the Arduino IDE the brand spanking new one has had some issues with flashing but the 1.6.5 should do fine. This is used to tranfer the Arduino .ino file onto the Arduino then to flash the STC 1000. https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/OldSoftwareReleases#previous This is handy to watch. This is a user manual. http://static1.squarespace.com/static/534ab806e4b021e125a9f826/t/53822ff0e4b0870ae9a58559/1401040880636/usermanual.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitsngiggles Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Thanks Mattrox - awesome info and help I just watched a youtube clip and looks pretty straight forward, just need to get the Arduino and bits and pieces sorted ... may not be straight away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Ooops. I neglected to say..... If you don't want to solder, use the Uno instead of the Nano. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-ATmega328P-CH340G-UNO-R3-Board-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-DIY-IT-/161849621464?hash=item25aefd3bd8:g:OlwAAOSwQoFWQZqh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattrox Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Thanks Mattrox - awesome info and help I just watched a youtube clip and looks pretty straight forward' date=' just need to get the Arduino and bits and pieces sorted ... may not be straight away. [/quote'] No problems. You will be well pleased you did it once you have got it up and running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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