JasonB18 Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 My goal is 20 - 23 liters. Using these coolers(eskys) there is just enough space. The plumbing was the spendy part but now that I have it I can always buy bigger coolers(eskys) if I need more Mash space. I will just have to test it out and see how it holds the temps, It might be more efficient having more head space in the mash, only one way to find out, Make BEER[biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 only one way to find out' date=' Make BEER[biggrin'] Amen to that brother Looks like your pretty close to what John Palmer recommends http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonB18 Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Awww man after reading that I have to tweak my manifold a bit so I can get more efficient mashing, and better runoff to my drain. hehe thanks alot. I thought I was done but NOOO got to make it better LOL [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 I just picked up my HP burner, next on my list is the mash tun and im ready for brew day. I nearly just bought a 25L cooler but it had no drain on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 $17 - No-chill cube Graham - if you are after a cube then an idea is to buy a FWK. They are about $40-$60 (depending which one you get) and a good drop. Then just ferment what you have and reuse the cube it comes in. I am sure you can see value in that [happy] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Funny you should say that Bill, I the same convo with the guys at craftbrewerm last Wednesday regarding there wort kits, great idea I reckon mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Awww man after reading that I have to tweak my manifold a bit so I can get more efficient mashing' date=' and better runoff to my drain. hehe thanks alot. I thought I was done but NOOO got to make it better LOL [biggrin'] Im sorry to say, but this will always be the case... Ive not stopped upgrading and tweaking my system for months.. On fact, on the horizon im going to almost completely rebuild it (all except the HLT) Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 Not as flash as Jasons but heres the tun Esky - $5 from recycle centre [biggrin] Plumbing - $30 (Yes, Ive just finished sawing shoot loads of slots into those pipes) And whilst I was at the recycling centre I picked up this for $3 Original 1987 Oktoberfest 1L Stein Krug [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 Kettle and high pressure burner Burner $169 50L Pot $30 St.steel plumbing $87.80 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewtownClown Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 And whilst I was at the recycling centre I picked up this for $3 Original 1987 Oktoberfest 1L Stein Krug [biggrin] No WAY! I was there in 1987 (and 88, 91, 94, 95). I saw those on sale for about 15 Deutsch Marks but decided I could not fit it in with all the steins I had stolen [bandit] Great score! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Bit more ghetto than Jasons shiny new system but I managed to make beer all the same [joyful] Chaos Sparge 1st addition Watching for boil over Cubing All in all a success Issues: Should have done a dry run with the burner, I thought I had too much wort so cranked it up and ended up boiling too much off. Need to make a measuring stick to suit my kettle In future add hops in bags for all additions unless small, hop screen ended up clogged. Hop screen negates whirlpooling (not sure how to fix this without removing the screen) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundawake Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Wow. I'm really happy with the results I get from extract brews, but like most brewers, I would like to give all grain a go some time in the future. I just need to ask, is it possible to achieve good results without it being so complicated and requiring so much equipment? I have to confess, I'm not even sure what some of these pics are of and what I'm looking at?!?!? As far as resources go, can anyone recommend a starting point for the aspiring grainist (it's a word now dammit) ? You can't get much better than Nick JD's tutorials on the aussiehomebrewer forums. Have a read, he really breaks it down to the most simple steps, and has a photo for every step. I'm about to start my first AG brew. Move To All Grain For Thirty Bucks 20L Stovetop All Grain Aussie Lager Be aware you'll need to sign up as a member to view the pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Thanks mate, that's what I was after. I know what he does looks crude, but I think I needed to see someone doing it with just regular gear to give me the push. [happy] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Good work Graham. Tip: when cautious of boil overs use a spray bottle filled with water. Just spray the surface area with water when it is getting close to over flowing. Phil - I was doing Nick's stovetop method for a while prior to getting my urn. I suggest doing it then you will know if going AG is for you. No doubt you'll love it though and it does get easier when using an urn and presumable does with burners and pot etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 No worries. I really like the idea of 9L batches. Getting to try different things without taking up too many bottles or having to drink 23L of average beer due to inexperience sounds great. Might get onto it in the next week or so! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Cheers Bill, its only happened with help from people on forums like this and guys like yourself giving advice. Ive never tasted a home made AG and I already prefer some of my goto extracts to the commercial offerings where I live so its going to have to be pretty damn good to keep me away from extract brewing. Go for it Phil even if it is only to sample the hype, too many people endorse it to not want to try a batch (or 10) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 It is always good to take advice provided you take the right advice. [rightful] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonB18 Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I like the way you keep it simple Graham. I get carried away sometimes,, I just like building stuff [roll]. My boil pot is only like 35L - 8 gallons, I have been close to boil over but with quick burner control and my stir spoon I have been able to keep it from happening. My boil temps are around 220`F so when I am getting close to that temp I turn my burner down. At the first sign of a boil, I then add my first hopps, I lower my burner temp even more ( it is still a rolling boil ) I use my stir spoon, slowly stirring the wort and let the foam subside. Then I turn my burner up for a nice gentile rolling boil for the remainder of the boil. I am thinking I should have got a bigger boil pot. With a 50L pot I wouldn't think you would have any trouble with boil over from 20-23L batches. Both my All Grain batches have been pretty simple ones ( only using about 8 lbs of grain for mash) and so far I have only done 2 All Grain batches. I am out of empty fermenters ( I need more [biggrin] ) Any ways keep it simple, keep it easy, Make GREAT BEER! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 Cheers to that, The 'boil over' pic was me cranking up the HP burner far higher than I needed it due to the excess wort I had made, you right in a 50L pot there was never the danger of that. That burner is awesome, gets 27L to boil in under 5mins from mash temp, I hate to think what it did to the gas level in the bottle though, I know it burnt the paint off the stand pretty quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 ...just dont put PBW in the mash instead of 5.2 stabiliser like I did yesterday [crying] now clearly labeled my lids [annoyed] milled again and got my cube though... effing... effing... bollox [crying] [crying] [crying] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 I wondered if that was you Yob.... Sorry for your loss mate [sad] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Jason... don't bother stuffing around stirring etc, just use a spray bottle of water and give it a squirt when it starts to foam up/rise. The water breaks the surface tension and it will drop again. Yeah Yob, I read about it mate, just didn't comment at the time and forgot about it later. A real loss that.... R.I.P.[crying] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 it was a valuable lesson.. guess what the harmful compound is in it... Sodium Metasilicate. LINKY - the toxiology bit was a good read [rightful] at the end of the (very long) brewday I got a cube of wort so not terribly upset about the whole thing. I now keep the PBW well away from my misc ingredients section [lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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