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Novice question about sterilisation...


SeanS4

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Hi All,

 

Just bottled first batch using latest DIY kit. Keen to get next brew underway asap in case first is a letdown.

 

I've got some of the Coopers sanitiser S.Perc. I've read somewhere a bit of advice on sterilising for at least 24 hours. Any reason why I can't just tip out the sediment, pull out tap and clean it, hot rinse, 1 hour soaking in S.Perc, rinse and mix again?

 

I hope the brew was free from much contamination, FV looks like food grade plastic... would microscopic remnants from a previous brew damage the next?

 

Thanks in advance.

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Pay due attention to the cleaning of the parts, invest in a no rinse sanitiser, and away you go, I often have brews put in the same FV within short periods of time, once or twice I have used them right away after a good rinse out, swap for a new tap, boiling water rinse, STARSAN and the wort goes right on in there... with propper attention to detail you should never have to face infection... 'should' not will [crying]

 

But we all live in hope that we stay in the 'should' bracket[roll]

 

Yob

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I have also often followed one brew with another. A good rinse with hot water, clean the tap and STARSAN everywhere and away I go again.

 

A couple of times I even put another straight on top of the previous yeast cake but have learned since that this is not good practice. Yes, everything is sanitary enough to do so it is more the fact of over pitching yeast which is another issue entirely.

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thats the spirit soldier... I cant reccomend Starsan Highly enough.. It is a foaming surfactant that will not harm your beer or leave residue, in fact it breaks down to be yeast nutrient, it also effectivly nutralises Alkaline Nappisan which means you use less water for rinsing, can be used on Aphids and the like.. what isnt it good for [roll]

 

Dont fear the Foam, (when you shake the FV it will foam like no mans buisness) I often put beer right in on top of a foamy FV / bottles with just the liquid drained.

 

use at 1.5ml per litre... Ive found it to be more conveniant to mix up 20l (15ml to 20 liters) in a spare drum so there is always some made up. Kept out of the sun it can last a very long time... it will go cloudy when it starts to break down also so is easy to know when to replace it.

 

Always keep a spray bottle full of it handy too... [rightful]

 

Yob

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Thanks Yob.

 

Since then, after two days in my quickly sanitised FV (cleaned, 2 hours soaking followed by very hot rinse) My Aussie Pale Ale has started to smell a bit weird. Temperature around 23. I'm hoping that this is just a phase, but suspect it's contaminated. It smells a bit eggy, like hydrogen sulphide. Is it game over for that one?

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[biggrin] Then again in saying that im absolutly fuming that i did not show more pacience and wait it out but obviously at the time i didnt realise it was acceptable.

I will be starting another one tomorrow as per recepie.

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Yeah... I'm trying to be patient but had a bit of a look around on UK and USA brew sites, seems like a really common thing, lots of experienced brewers saying 'no worries' and I only found one guy who said his beer smelt a bit weird but tasted good after a few weeks in the bottle. A lot of them blamed lager yeast, and I thought this was ale yeast with the can. Not that I would know the difference! I will stick a peg on my nose for the first swig while doing gravity in a few days and if it tastes like a 1961 omelette I will use my new bottles for something else (like the Unreal Ale I put on at the same time which smells sweeeet). [joyful]

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Don't sweat with the Aussie Pale yeast,as PB2 said your on the ball, just let it do it's thing and you will have a really great brew that you will do time and time again, eventually putting your own twist to it.

I sometimes like to ferment this brew with 2 packets of the ale/lager (int) yeast and ferment at 18C....lovely

 

PS The yeast that comes with the Aussie pale is a blend of ale and lager yeasts,int is the code on the back of the pack. Its the lager strain that gives off the eggy smell. If you don't like the smell.....eat more eggs...love them.[happy]

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Thanks Jasond4... even since my first mention of the egg experience, the whiff of the brew has improved a fair bit, and everything I have read elsewhere backs up PB2's input. I'm just a bit lacking in knowledge, and for a while there I was being accused of making bad smells at home [lol] Cheers for the info... no doubt I will soon be trying to figure out what more yeast and a slightly cooler ferment does... I'm now wondering what yeast does when it runs out of fuel... maybe that's for a different thread.

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If you want more yeast then make sure you don't over pitch. Otherwise you will end up with lazy little suckers and will notice it in the taste. Don't worry about adding more yeast for now, that is one good way to stuff your brew so until you have a better idea of how yeast acts then just stick to the basics.

 

However, if you can work on a cooler brew, i.e. Ales at 18-20C then you will notice a huge difference for the better. All brewers should work on temperature control and get this element down pat prior to trying anything else imo. Temperature control is one of the most important things to get right and when it is then everything else is becomes so much easier.

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