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Temp control issues in old fridge


ShakeyD

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Just finished restoring an old 1958 Westinghouse to use as a fermenting chamber/beer fridge. Have set up a SCT-1000 temp controller, plugged in, is the fridge and a heat mat and sits between 18 and 19 perfectly during the day. However came out this morning and it had dropped to 15 Degrees. Luckily I haven't made my next brew yet, but was wanting to do it today.

 

I'm guessing I need to replace the seal or perhaps it is where the heat pad cord goes into the door.

 

When the temp dropped I had nothing in there and the pad was just lying on the shelf.

 

I think the heat pad was struggling to warm the entire empty fridge on what was an absolutely freezing Melbourne morning. Just wondering if I place a towel on the bottom shelf, then the heat mat, then the fermenter if that would work. I'm hoping keeping the heat in between the towel and the base, with the probe taped to the side may be ok, any thoughts?

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I would have thought that the heat pad would have little trouble maintaining your required temp. I use a light bulb in a terracotta pot which puts out a lot less heat than a mat and it maintains the fridge at the temps I set even on the coldest days.

 

I can only guess that you fridge has very poor seals. The cord through the door shouldn't be enough to be losing that much heat.

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Bugger I just did a long winded and no doubt imformative post which was lost when I clicked "Post". So here is an abbreviated version:

 

I wouldn't think that a dodgy seal would be that big of an issue but that is the only culprit I could think of off hand. If I'd just think that the fridge or heat pad would just run longer if it was losing or gaining temp.

 

I'd test it again but this time put water in your fermentor and attach the probe to the side covered with some polystyrene foam or something. This way you will get a more accurate reading ofthe water temp rather than the ambient temp of the fridge. The ambient temp of the fridge can go up or down several degress just by opening the door whereas the water (or you wort) will maintain a more steady temp.

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What difference have you got your temps to come on at?

I'm not at home to check but I think it is the "F2" function (if not then it is the F3). I have mine set at .5 difference others I know have .3 difference.

 

I have a 16w reptile heat cord and am guessing that your heat pad is at least 25w so it should maintain temps as I have no problems maintaining temps using a 16w source.

 

Also you need to be monitoring the temp of your wort, not ambient fridge temps.

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Hi, just realized my heat pad is only 10w this is probably the problem, however it heats upto 35 C and worked fine inside. I'm still thinking underneath the fermenter with the probe on the side and covered may be ok, I'll try with water overnight before hopefully making the brew tomorrow.

 

Bill I have it set

F1 18.5

F2 0.5

F3 3

F4 0.0

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I have my F2 set to 0.5, set below this it will cycle the fridge on and off too often, more than this will have too much temp fluctuation (for my liking) to the yeast.

 

also dont put the heat pad "directly" under the FV as you will be heating "through" the trub. Place it at the bottom of the fridge to heat the whole FV by ambient temps.

 

well... thats what I do anyway[whistling

 

Yob

 

[edit] I assume you have calibrated the device and are sure that the F4 should be set to 0?

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Yob... I think you must mean you have F2 set to .5.

 

+1 to the heat pad not in direct contact with the FV. 10W will still be enough. The only difference is that it will take a little while to get to the required temp, but once there it won't have a problem maintaining it.

 

I have F3 set to 9 which is the delay for the compressor. I really wouldn't suggest any lower than 3 unless for a specific reason I am not aware of.

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