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How can i reduce sediment when bottling?


AndrewC5

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On my first brew, all the bottles were cloudy and after priming the sediment had settled. After they had beer moved, the sediment was stirred up again into the beer.

Is this going to effect the taste or just looks?

Also, is there any good ways to prevent this?

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G'day Andrew - I've never had a problem with sediment. I think the trick is not to rush to bottle it give it a few days to settle after fermentation is complete. When in the bottle give it time to settle and it'll become more compact and stick to the bottom of the bottle.

 

Oh.. and store them upright of course ;)

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Andrew, one option is the rack your brew - this requires taking the wot from one fermenter into the other and allowing it to slowly transfer. The key issue in this method is sterilisation and cleanliness and also ensuring that the wot being transferred is not splashed in, reducing the oxidisation of the wot, prior to final bottling. I allow my wot to ferment for 7 days, or until fermentation appears to have stopped, before I rack, lesving thr sediment in the bottom of the first fermenter. Let it then sit in the second fermenter for a day or three then bottle.

 

TOO Hard - try beer clear or finnings from the home brew shop.

 

OR bottle as is and enjoy the whole beer, all you need to do before serving is roll - reminds me of the Coopers Pale Ale of old .... fond memories

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Paley, you will achieve the same result by leaving the brew in the primary fermenting vessel for those extra days and then bottle. The racking method, you currently use, increases the risk of spoilage.

 

Your brew is most vulnerable prior to fermentation and after fementation. However, if you must rack the time to do it is when the brew is still active, around day 3 or 4. We don't recommend racking.

 

Andrew, you need yeast to be in the bottom of the bottle after secondary fermentation. It is this yeast that has metabolised the priming sugar and carbonated your beer.

 

Yes, you can reduce the amount of yeast carried over to the bottle by the addition of finings 3/4 of the way through fermentation or by leaving the brew to sit for a few days after FG is reached. If too much yeast drops out of suspension the brew may struggle to become sufficiently carbonated in the bottle.

 

Also, a bit of patience goes a long way - conditioning time in the bottle generally improves the aroma and flavour profile, makes the bead finer (promoting a creamier persistent head) and compacts the sediment.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A filter can work nicely if you plan to keg and force carbonate. However, for naturally conditioned beer, filtering tends to reduce the yeast count below the threshold for secondary fermentation.

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You could look at the type of yeast that you are using. Different types of yeast flocculate as different levels, and a higher flocculating yeast will drop out of suspension and pack down better in the fermenter. Just make sure that you use a yeast that is typical for the style of beer you are using.

 

The other thing is to think about is the style of beer that you are making. If you are making an ale, it is probably acceptable or even desirable to have a certain level of cloudiness (look at Coopers Pale for example), however if you are a lager fan then you might want to chase the clarity thing a bit further.

 

Cheers

 

J

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