Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Well I love my Dead Guy Ale Clone so much I just put on another small 17.5 litre batch this morning. Cooled 11 litres of wort from the boil to 23\xb0C then into the fermenter and topped with water to get 15.5L at 23\xb0C. Aerated the wort and pitched the 2 litre starter. Ended with 17.5 Litres. Took a decent sample in measuring cylinder (because my little hydrometer only goes to 1.045 and this has OG of 1.074) While I was taking the reading I noticed the break come on and the cylinder was like full of curdled wort. I suppose the temperature would have dropped from around 22 in the FV to say 18 in the cylinder but the break became obvious and I thought I would try to capture it in a photo. Not very successful as it soon started to settle or disappear. After an hour half way down the cylinder is looking clearer and the bottom half looks denser so I say it is settling to the bottom? I did not filter at all from the boil pot to the fermenter. Hops were in a double bag and no crud was obvious at transfer. I am wondering should I have waited longer before transferring to Fermenter or filtered in any way? I ended up with a fair bit of trub in the last batch but it settled out nicely and yeast washed and froze great and the beer is awesome. I am clearly going to get a lot of crud in the fermenter again but wonder if this can contribute to any off flavors? I am brewing in a bag and am very happy with this method but any advice that might improve my process would be appreciate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty A Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Hi John, Not many of us here are all grain brewers. Although I had a similar thing happen to me with my brews. They didnt seem to affect the taste or anything. Now I normally don't take an OG and cant really see into my fermenter. Not sure if it is still doing it. I assume it would be. If you want it to stop, maybe you could leave it in your kettles a little longer after it is cooled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 I haven't much time to answer but Whirfloc and Whirlpool should get rid of most of the hot break. No need to worry about cold break a great deal as it will settle out in the primary in time anyway. However, it is nice to be working with clear wort I must admitt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 I haven't much time to answer but Whirfloc and Whirlpool should get rid of most of the hot break. No need to worry about cold break a great deal as it will settle out in the primary in time anyway. However, it is nice to be working with clear wort I must admitt. Thanks Bill. I used half a whirfloc for the last 5 minutes when I did my final hopping and was wondering if I should have put it in 15 mins before end of boil. Anticipating a lot of crud in FV so have tilted it at 15\xb0 away from the tap so it is not get disturbed when transferring to my priming tub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 17.5l brew I would only use 1/4 of a tablet (it won't be so "fluffy" and be more solid) and throw it in 10 minutes before the end of boil then let it sit for 15ish minutes when off the heat then give it a nice whirlpool (without splashing of course) and then let it sit for 30 minutes to settle. The whirlpool will force the break material to gather in the middle of the kettle/pot, away from your tap enabling clear wort to be picked up and not so much break, hops and proteins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 Thanks Bill I will follow your advice next brew with a Centennial Blonde planned in the next couple of weeks. I never dumped the measuring cylinder and have it sitting near my PC. It is better than looking at a lava lamp watching the fermentation up close.I have about 130ml of wort in the cylinder and the crud has settled down to take up about 10ml. It has developed a beautiful creamy head and there is quite vigorous activity in there which makes me think I may have over pitched. I pitched a full 2 litre starter at high krausen. In seven hours the SG has dropped from 1.074 to 1.064. The CO2 being generated is keeping a lot of material in suspension. I changed my recipe this time and replaced LDME with Coopers Light Malt extract hoping that it might lighten the color just a little but I do not think it has. The Crystal 40L has probably had more influence on the color than the extract I added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 To be honest John, you'd probably need a 2L starter to pitch into 1.074 wort. If it is over-pitched then it certainly wouldn't be by much. I doubt you will get any funky flavors as a result. I assume your Centennial Blonde has Centennial hops in it.... I love Centennial hops [love] Don't waste your measuring cylinder sample, I always drink mine mmmmmm, there is nothing in a beer that will hurt a human so all is good there [cool] Let us know how it ends up. Sounds like it is going great guns for now [joyful] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 Yes Bill - the Centennial Blonde recipe has both Centennial and Cascade hops. The measuring cylinder sample is chugging away but looks pretty uninviting at present with a brown scum on top of the creamy head. I might just share this one with the dog. I had a couple late last night from the first batch which went down a treat but I must confess to a mild head this morning. At 6.5% ABV this one comes out with all guns blazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 according to MR MALTY you would have needed 208 billion cells or 1.45lt of a simple starter, you dont say if it was liquid or dry yeast or how you got that going. Have a play with Mr Malty and yuo should be able to determine if you have indeed overpitched. Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 according to MR MALTY you would have needed 208 billion cells or 1.45lt of a simple starter, you dont say if it was liquid or dry yeast or how you got that going. Have a play with Mr Malty and yuo should be able to determine if you have indeed overpitched. Yob Mr Malty for me is like trying to read the Dead Sea Scrolls. I am never sure which tab to use. For example lets say I harvest a yeast cake and wash it into 5 x 500ml preserving jars and end up with about 0.5cm to 1 cm of yeast on the bottom of each jar. Do I use tab one "LIQUID YEAST" to do the calculation or do I use the "REPITCHING FROM SLURRY" tab? If I use the "LIQUID YEAST" tab it will tell me the size of the starter and that sounds simple enough. But is washed slurry classed as liquid yeast? If I use the "REPITCHING FROM SLURRY" tab it does not give a starter size but rather a volume of yeast in ml which of course complicates things a little because how do you know how much volume of yeast you have in an active starter? For example if I chuck the yeast(only) from one of the jars into a 2 litre starter(1.040) how do I know how much yeast I have at high krausen? Can Mr Malty tell me? Do I have to actually measure the volume of yeast in a measuring cylinder or the like? I have just been taking pot luck and if it is low OG beer chucking a 2 litre starter and if it is higher OG then increasing to 3 or 4 litres of starter depending on the OG. I have been happy with the products using this method but obviously would like to get the optimum result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 sorry mate I missed this.. if repitching from used yeast you use the "repitching from slurry".. if you have let your starter fully ferment then fridge it and drop the yeast out and then 'rinse' the yeast, so that you are only pitching viable and hopefully healthy cells then you can move the slider to "thick Yeast".. there is also a helpful topic HERE that was put together. and in particular I found THIS post very informative. The topic will answer many questions you have. as with most things brewing for us on a backyard level many things are a bit trial and error until you are happy with it... one of the more important things to observe is simply the repeatable process and understanding what you want from it. Ive got some rinsed US-05 I want to use today and have a glass jarmarked at 50ml increments so when settled out in the fridge I can guage how much 'clean' yeast is in there.. in this case almost spot on 50ml which is what I need for a 1044 House Ale. mmmm galaxy hops.... cant wait to brew this one again... and again... and maybe again... also (BN) REPITCHING YEAST and (BN) YEAST STARTERS for additional info and a good listen, Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 Thanks Yob that is good reading and answers a few lingering questions. Are they saying a slant should first be put into only 10ml or 70ml? Lately I have been freezing about 4ml of yeast into a similar quantity of 30% glycerine solution in a 10ml vial. I have been pitching that into 100ml of wort and that appears successful as a first step. I prefer freezing to slanting in the fridge at this time. Is your rinsed US-05 from a cake or a starter? I think I too will mark my 500ml preserve jar at the 50ml level to get a better idea of what is in there. I washed a cake yesterday (bottle harvested Coopers Pale Ale)into 2 x 1 litre preserving jars. Here is a photo of one of the bottles. Been in fridge overnight and taking a while to settle out. Goodluck with your brewday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 I dont believe gelatine protects the cell wall of yeast during freezing resulting in cell mutation. For a better understanding of what is required have a read of THIS TOPIC over at AHB, Wolfy's very good with yeasties... Yob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoptimus Maximus Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 I dont believe gelatine protects the cell wall of yeast during freezing resulting in cell mutation. Yob Sorry matey I meant Glycerine(I use Fauldings from Coles) not gelatine. Been drinking too many Dead Guys This is the method I use and it works http://www.ipass.net/mpdixon/Homebrew/Freezing%20Yeast.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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