scottb12 Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Hi everyone, I'd like to try dry hopping but I'm not too sure how to go about it. I know you add the hops once fermentation is complete and leave for a few days. Do you have to put the pellets in a bag? What sort of bag? Does the bag need to be sterilised? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Do a search on Dry Hopping, there is heaps of information already posted. http://www.coopers.com.au/search-results?query=dry+hopping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Hi Scott, Dry hopping is really easy to do and adds a lot to your brew. You should check out the thread by the same title. There's some info that you are looking for. Chad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty A Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 I havent checked the thread listed abover although how I do it is: - I wrap the pellets up in a chux cloth (new out of the packet and then store the rest in a zip lock bag or sanitise everytime you use them) -Tie up the chux cloth so they can't escape. -Toss them in the fermenter at day 4 (or when the foam dies down) -Shut the fermenter -Done Its pretty easy to do and it adds another aspect to your beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 Over here,we don't dry hop till FG is reached,since the hop oils cling to the settling yeasties. Not to mention,they claim the hop oils are also driven off by escaping co2. Not sure about that,but they def cling to settling yeast. It's typical to dry hop 1 week before bottling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottb12 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Thanks for the advice guys, I'm going to try a draught and dry hop with some Cascade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Eh!L Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Hi Scott, Good choice with the Cascade Draught.[love] I really like this brew. I dry hop mine with 15g after the high kausen dies back. Tell us how it turns out for you. Chad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike - Hoosier Daddy Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Just did my first dry hop a couple weeks ago. TC Draught, Amber malt, and cascade hops. It is currently being conditioned but gravity sample tasted amazing, could really smell the cascade hops, in fact after cleaning and sterilizing the fermenter it STILL smelled like the hops [lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 personally I a big fan of dry hopping in combination.. [uS-05] cascade/chinook.. cascade/perle.. cascade/amarillo [Notto] ekg/fuggles ekg/...somethin somethin... depending on brew and yeast selection (to style), Ive alway had much more fun with two hops that Ive had with one.. just seems the blended beers always had more to offer than the ones I tried with a singular addition of just one type. Also dry hopping can be done at any time, it's true that active vigorous fermentation does drive off some aroma and flavour, it's also widely accepted that if you are dry hopping the best time to do a 'single' addition is after high krausen which is 'generally' 4-6 days.. there are commercial brewerys that dry hop at various times of the ferment 'including but not restricted to' FG being reached. I have read (maybe tased... mind fogs) of commercial brewerys even dry hopping at Cold Conditioning (NZ Brew I believe) but hay... one of these days I will be able to do a side be side comparison and see for myself the difference between a single dry hop addition and a 3 stage like the guys who make and sell it[innocent] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Over here' date='we don't dry hop till FG is reached,since the hop oils cling to the settling yeasties. Not to mention,they claim the hop oils are also driven off by escaping co2. Not sure about that,but they def cling to settling yeast. It's typical to dry hop 1 week before bottling. [/quote'] Leonard, I reckon the hop oils will cling to the settling yeasties here too [innocent] Nevertheless, I am curious as to why anyone would worry about this considering that you want your yeast to settle anyway. The job still gets done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeonardC2 Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Over here' date='we don't dry hop till FG is reached,since the hop oils cling to the settling yeasties. Not to mention,they claim the hop oils are also driven off by escaping co2. Not sure about that,but they def cling to settling yeast. It's typical to dry hop 1 week before bottling. [/quote'] Leonard, I reckon the hop oils will cling to the settling yeasties here too [innocent] Nevertheless, I am curious as to why anyone would worry about this considering that you want your yeast to settle anyway. The job still gets done. I was just speaking for HB'rs here in the US/Canada. Yes,you want the yeast to settle. But not doing the bulk of settling during dry hopping,so as not to drag a good percentage of the hop oils with it. That's the "applied science" version,anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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