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Lowenbrau Original Clone


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Hey guys, been brewing for awhile and loving it. I have been doing mostly just the kits and sometimes changing the sugar or adding extra liquid malt or hop pills.

 

What I would like to do is make a clone of my favourite beer of all time; Lowenbrau Original.

 

I found a homebrew oinline shop that sell a clone pack. Its pretty cheap aswell.

 

I was wondering if this sounds right to you guys, or would you change anything in the recipe they provide?

 

Adding fresh grain flavor to the fresh hops really increases the flavor of the beers you brew. Always steep the grains no warmer than 70C, never boil them.

LO AND BRAU

Steep some cara-malts and boil some fresh fresh fresh Hallertau plugs to brew a beer better than Lowenbrau. Use a lager yeast and ferment cool.\t$14.75

 

 

 

Also I was wondering how come it says here to never boil your hops, but plenty of topics I have read suggest you do?

 

 

Thanks guys

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You steep the grains provided at 150-160F for 20 mins or so. You def boil the hop pellets (I use a hop sack for cleanliness) for the times specified in the kit instructions. By the way,I drank Lowenbrau original back in the day,& it always tasted really salty to me. Water make up? Compounded by the spiciness of the Haulertau.imo. Idk if the kit will account for it,or if you have to condition the water for this quality in the flavor?...

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Capt, it says don't boil the grain, keep it at 70C not over, (boiling the grain releases tannins), but yes, boil the hops, longer for bitterness, shorter boil for flavour and throw in the fermenter dry after 4-5 days for aroma.

 

good luck.

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Capt, it says don't boil the grain, keep it at 70C not over, (boiling the grain releases tannins), but yes, boil the hops, longer for bitterness, shorter boil for flavour and throw in the fermenter dry after 4-5 days for aroma.

 

good luck.

So that's right in there with the temps commonly used over here for steeping where 70C=158F. that's sort of hot,mildly steamy water. I use 150F water for making starters with DME. But wait longer than just after initial fermentation. Over here,we generally wait till after FG is reached,& much of the yeast has settled out. Otherwise,the hop oils cling to the settling yeast. Thus dragged out of suspension & lost.

I've also found it interesting that hop flavors/aromas are just like those of malts. They need a few weeks in bottle/keg to develop enough to be more readily noticeable.

 

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Capt, assuming you are referring to the Lowenbrau Original sold Aus' - this happens to be one of the first non-Coopers beers I got to analyse in the lab'. [biggrin]

 

Colour 8.5 EBC, Bitterness 16.8 IBU, AE 2.1P (and SG of about 1008), Alcohol 5.2% ABV, pH 4.3.

 

The sample (tasted) was lively in the glass, minimal hop aroma finshing slightly sweet.

 

You could try the European Lager beer kit + 1kg of Light Dry Malt + 250g Dextrose to 23 litres.

 

Start the ferment at 24C for the first 12hrs then draw it down to 15C until FG is achieved.

 

This should come out similar in style. Certainly not a "clone" because such a subtle flavoured beverage is affected by variation in ingredients, brewing, fermentation, packaging, pasteurisation and storage conditions - not of which we can match [rightful]

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I understand it will be hard to replicate the lowenbrau, but knowing the bitterness and everything is a great help. I will buy the pack of this site and combine the info from here and on that site to make a hybrid of the 2. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

 

What does AE2.1P stand for? and pH is the acidity right?

 

Cheers

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AE is Apparent Extract, measured in degrees plato (percentage of solids/sugars/carbohydrates). Roughly, multiply degrees plato by 4 to get the SG.

 

pH is kind of irrelevant, although it does drop as the brew ferments. Really low pH may indicate the presence of acetic acid (vinegar)

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