Teej Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Hello fellow beer lovers. As the title says, just started my second ever batch, made as follows - Canadian Blonde kit BE2 ~15g Cascade boiled 20 mins, resulting liquid strained into FV Stock yeast. Want a nice, easily drinkable summer beer for hot days (well, as hot as they get here in England...). The hop boil was sort of an experiment, as I read online somewhere that a medium-length Cascade boil adds a great deal to this kit. I am a little concerned, however, as my OG is 1035. Is this right for BE2? My first brew was the OS lager with BE1, OG was 1041. The reason I am concerned is that the BE2 was shipped to me a bit damaged and obviously a little moisture had gotten in, as it was a fairly solid block. I broke it up by bashing it with a wooden spoon, and as a result some fairly hefty lumps went into the FV. I stirred it as well as I could and pitched at ~23C. Any input would be appreciated! [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamB8 Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 There a different ratio of ingredients between BE1 & 2 BE1 = 60% dextrose 40% maltodextrin BE2 = 50% dextrose 25% maltodextrin 25% Light Dry Malt Im not sure which is more fermentable as malt is not as fermentable as dextrose and malto is non fermentable but I would guess BE2 is slightly better. I would suggest your next brew to have a higher ratio of additional malt, for a standard swilling ale I tend to go 1kg of dry malt and 200-300g of dextrose to raise the gravity to where I want it. (Dextrose will give you alcohol but it will also thin your beer and reduce head retention) The Cascade will add some aroma used to those instructions, you could have added some for the last 5 mins to get the most out of Cascade and you can also throw some into the fermenter after its been fermenting for 72 hours (if you like your hops Cascade is perfect for that application) Either way your off to a flying start playing with hops on only your second brew, I think you will be happy with the results if you have your sanitation and fermenting temps correct. Start looking at using speciality grains with your kits (Crystal, chocolate, ect), I know its only your second brew but I brewed for years before I did and was kicking myself when I finally did, its easy to do and the taste difference is a world apart. Keep up the good work Teej [smile] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teej Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 Graham - thanks very much for the feedback! Looking at the FV now, I can see some undissolved malt at the bottom. I guess that explains the lower-than-expected OG. A browse online reveals a consensus that this is fine, and that the yeast will still eat it. I suppose I can always VERY CAREFULLY rouse it a little in a couple of days' time... I will certainly have to investigate other grains and hops. I have a can of the Australian Pale Ale and one of the wheat beer too... will definitely have to do something more adventurous with them. If only I had the cash and space for another setup I could get started right away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Looking at the FV now' date=' I can see some undissolved malt at the bottom. I guess that explains the lower-than-expected OG. A browse online reveals a consensus that this is fine, and that the yeast will still eat it. I suppose I can always VERY CAREFULLY rouse it a little in a couple of days' time...[/quote'] Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your new hobby! I've never had DME clump up on me *knocks on wood*, but I'm under the impression that undissolved chunks usually float (anyone care to confirm this?), so the stuff you at the bottom is probably just the trub that you get with every brew. You should definitely leave that stuff alone and let the convection from the fermentation take care of stirring the wort. [cool] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teej Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 I don't think it can be the trub, as I noticed it after it'd been sitting for only about an hour - isn't this too short a period for yeast to start dropping out of suspension? To clarify - this is just an assumption I'm making. Thought yeast takes a couple of hours to rehydrate and start working? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Well, I have to admit this is something I only have a vague understanding of, but I believe the trub consists of more than just yeast - namely, the proteins that coagulate and fall out of suspension as a result of the cold break. And yeah, you get that stuff as soon as you're done mixing your wort. This something that puzzled me when I put down my first brew, 'cause I had no idea what that white stuff at the bottom was. Naturally, I thought the yeast might be dead and panicked a little. [lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teej Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 Ah - I stand corrected! Fair enough. I actually just tested my hydrometer and I think it's broken... as tap water is reading as 0995 instead of 1000... and going by that, my OG was really 1040 anyway! What a naff hydrometer though... honestly, my second brew and it's already faulty... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Your reading needs to be taken in 20C tap water. You have nothing to worry about, I have no doubt that all the sugars were not completely dissolved. Therefore, giving you an incorrect OG reading. 1 kit can and BE2 should give you a gravity of about 1038-1040. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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