Dingo 1525229558 Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Hi. Recipe is... Irish Stout Can 1.5kg Coopers Liquid Dark Malt Can 1kg Dextrose 20lts Water Pitched Yeast 26 degrees OG 1.070 Has been sitting on 22 degrees for 7 days Hyd 1.020 for two days in a row. Do you think its ok to bottle? It tastes pretty good. I want to get another batch on so keen to bottle. I have read its better to ferment for 2 weeks but all mine have been a week and taste great. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Chop Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Hi. Thoughts? Hi Nik You need another fermenting vessel. How much yeast did you pitch? Did you re-hydrate what you pitched? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 I used the Stout can yeast. I didn't rehydrate it. Another vessel down the track maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Do you think its ok to bottle? It tastes pretty good. I want to get another batch on so keen to bottle. I have read its better to ferment for 2 weeks but all mine have been a week and taste great. Thoughts? Hi Nik. I agree with the rule of thumb to wait for 2 weeks before bottling because the third stage of fermentation, when the yeast reabsorb some of the less pleasant byproducts of fermentation, takes a while. Personally I usually wait for three weeks before I bottle. The yeast that comes with this kit is most likely S-04. It has a reputation for stalling out before hitting final gravity, especially if it is not rehydrated. And given your high starting gravity, even if you had rehydrated, it would still have been severely under-pitched. Well at least you fermented it at a temperature that would help the low cell count. Is the gravity you have, 1.020, inline with what your software is telling you to expect? My software, Ian's Spreadsheet, says your FG should be 1.012 with S-04 or 1.014 with Coopers yeast. I think it has stalled. Personally I would throw a package of rehydrated Coopers yeast on it and give it another week....To restart a stuck ferment, it is good to give the new yeast a bit of dextrose to eat. Boil 200gm of dextrose in a small amount of water and let it cool with the lid on, for 20-30 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon of DAP (yeast nutrient), then add to the fermentor (it does not have to cool all the way to room temperature). Meanwhile rehydrate the Coopers yeast in a sanitized jar in some warm water (below 30C) for 20-30 minutes. Add the yeast to the beer after you have added the dextrose and DAP mixture. Wait another week after you have added the Coopers yeast before checking the gravity. If it has dropped I would wait another week before bottling. If it has not dropped, it may be done and you could bottle, but use very low priming rates as a precaution, and check the carbonation levels every 2-3 days during the carbonation period, starting at day 12, until you are at the three week point. Given that you used Dark LME to make this brew, which contains additional roasted malts, you are going to have to age this brew for quite a while (months) anyway, so there is no hurry to bottle it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 Wow, sounds like i have lots to learn. Ok, so i have just re read the recipe from Coopers site here It does say to use to re activate coopers yeast which i didn't do. Can i use a packet of US-05 to do this?? Or does it have to be specific Coopers yeast. Do i have to add extra dextrose to the FV or can it be normal sugar? I can't get my hand on any yeast nutrients as i live in a remote town so will this matter? Also, with pitching yeast, is it better to re hydrate it to give it a better chance at fermenting? What would happen if i bottled normally now at FG of 1.020. Would it make much different to the taste or flavour? Or only the ABV?? Sorry for all the questions i am new to this. Thanks so much for your reply ChristinaS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Wow' date=' sounds like i have lots to learn. Ok, so i have just re read the recipe from Coopers site here It does say to use to re activate coopers yeast which i didn't do. Can i use a packet of US-05 to do this?? Or does it have to be specific Coopers yeast. Do i have to add extra dextrose to the FV or can it be normal sugar? I can't get my hand on any yeast nutrients as i live in a remote town so will this matter? Also, with pitching yeast, is it better to re hydrate it to give it a better chance at fermenting? What would happen if i bottled normally now at FG of 1.020. Would it make much different to the taste or flavour? Or only the ABV?? Sorry for all the questions i am new to this. Thanks so much for your reply ChristinaS1 No problem Nik, happy to help. Yes, you can use US-05, if that is what you have on hand. Table sugar should be fine. You can skip the yeast nutrient, but it is not a bad idea to get some next time you are at the shop, to have on hand. It is helpful in situations like this. When making high gravity beer it can also be added at the start of fermentation, to help prevent a stuck ferment from happening. It is also a good idea to use whenever you are using a lot of sugar. Yup, it is always better to rehydrate yeast. Dry pitching kills about half the cells. Warm tap water is gentler, so more survive the rehydration process. If you bottle now, at 1.020: if your brew is indeed stuck and the yeast respond to the priming sugar by reactivating, it may result in bottle bombs, which is very dangerous and messy too. If you use PET bottles it is less dangerous, but it will over-carbonate and gush all over the place when you open the bottle, wasting a lot of beautiful beer. I suppose there is also the possibility the yeast would not respond to the priming sugar and then you would have sweet, flat beer. If your beer is actually done/not stuck, nothing bad will happen; it will carbonate normally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 Ok great!!! I will def be re hydrating the yeast every time from now on. So all i have to do is put it in water below 30 deg for 20-30 mins? Should i give the vessel a stir when i add the yeast and the sugar mix?? I definitely do not want Stout Beer Bottle Bombs, that would be disastrous!!! Ok, one last question? Should the airlock bubble after doing all this? Can't wait to see how it goes. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Ok great!!! I will def be re hydrating the yeast every time from now on. So all i have to do is put it in water below 30 deg for 20-30 mins? Should i give the vessel a stir when i add the yeast and the sugar mix?? I definitely do not want Stout Beer Bottle Bombs' date=' that would be disastrous!!! Ok, one last question? Should the airlock bubble after doing all this? Can't wait to see how it goes. Thanks again [img']biggrin[/img] Hey Nik. Yeah, that is pretty much all there is to rehydrating yeast. Rinse the container with Starsan first though. Make sure to measure the temperature of the water with a thermometer and don't just guess. If it is too hot you could kill your new yeast. Once you have added the yeast, cover the top of your jar with a [loose] lid or piece of foil to keep out dust and insects. At the half way point you could give it a little stir with a sanitized spoon. No need to stir the fermentor after adding the sugar and yeast. The yeast will stir it up. Yes, the airlock should bubble, but probably not as long or as hard at the first time. Keep us posted Nik. I am interested to see what your final gravity will be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 Cheers!!! I have added 200gm of white sugar to about 2 cups of water. Brought to boil and rested with lid on for 30 mins. Water in sanitized jar at approx 25 degrees, yeast in (US-05), glad wrap on top and left for 30mins. (Was very milky in color when finished) Sugar water added to vessel then yeast mix. Fingers crossed!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 Hey Christina, I added the rehydrated yeast 4 days ago. No airlock activity and still sitting on 1.020. It is tasting a lot more smooth and rich though. Will leave for another week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Well then, it must be done; probably no danger of bottle bombs then. But I would still let wait the week before bottling, and prime on the low side. And just for safety sake try checking the carbonation level of one bottle at two weeks, and one at three weeks, and one at four weeks. If it is normal, you can relax and let them age for however long you are going to age them for. If they seem to be over-carbing, stick them in the fridge. I am not a brewer of big beers like this, but I think they advise to let at least a dozen or so age until they are six months, if you have the self-control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waylon Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Nik, I totally disagree with fellow advice and believe this is fine beer for the bottle, I now personally leave my at least two weeks for yeast to settle and sometimes crash chill...but this dosnt need to be done at all it simply leaves cleaner beer, With two stable gravity readings... Starting @ 1070 finishing @ 1020... fermenting @ 22 degrees over 7 days should be finished easy as! Fermenting with ale yeast is usually finished between four to five days then needs yeast to settle...this is not rocket science. Some people read to much instead of brewing beer so don't be worried at all. Your Brew is fine to bottle after the 7 days mate... If you wanted to leave it longer or crash chill in fridge this would simply add a cleaner beer. Its a dark stout so it will bottle and be fine regardless... Don't worry your brew will be totally fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 I now personally leave my at least two weeks I agree with the rule of thumb to wait for 2 weeks before bottling because the third stage of fermentation' date=' when the yeast reabsorb some of the less pleasant byproducts of fermentation, takes a while. Personally I usually wait for three weeks before I bottle.[/quote'] Actually Waylon, you and I don't totally disagree. Nik, you might want to do as Waylon does, and not as he says. I have already admitted I have no experience brewing beers with this high a gravity. Perhaps there was never anything to worry about, but I was just going by the FG my software gave me, and the fact that this brew was under-pitched. IMHO when bottling in glass, and if one is unsure if a brew is done, it is wise to play it safe. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 Thanks for your feedback Waylon. After adding the US-05 yeast for a week the Stout is a lot more rich and full flavored so i think it might be worth the experiment. I usually bottle my Ales after 7 days and they have all been great. People say that after a week in the FV the yeast cleans up after itself, can this also happen in the bottle?? Brew fridge is in the pipeline!!! At the moment i am living in a climate that's 42 degrees everyday and a small room with aircon is just getting me through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo 1525229558 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 No, your advice has been really useful thanks Christina. It's all about experimenting i guess and i think the flavor of the Stout has majorly improved in the past week. I am going to try my hardest and leave it in the bottle for a few month. It's going to be hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristinaS1 Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 I usually bottle my Ales after 7 days and they have all been great. People say that after a week in the FV the yeast cleans up after itself' date=' can this also happen in the bottle?? Brew fridge is in the pipeline!!! At the moment i am living in a climate that's 42 degrees everyday and a small room with aircon is just getting me through.[/quote'] Yes, the yeast can clean up after itself in the bottle, but it takes longer, because there is less yeast in the bottle than the fermentor. In other words, the clean up process is faster in the fermentor. That is why experienced brewers are less in a hurry to bottle than beginners, unless of course you are aiming for lots of esters, like in a English Bitter. Another exception might be if you have brewed a low gravity Lawnmower ale and intend to harvest some of the yeast for repitching: harvesting the yeast at the two week point is better. Your climate is 42 degrees? Wow! A brew fridge sounds like a great idea. Cheers Nik, and happy brewing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DewBrew Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 This has been an immensely helpful thread as I'm back to brewing after a few yrs and I have a similar brew (coopers stout can+kilo LHBS stout improver+1.7liquid dark malt+us04) I'm at day seven in the fv but going to leave mine till day 14 to bottle haven't checked sg yet but I started at 1.054 so I'm curious about the drop, will room cellar for a month then if settling will further cellar for about 5 months Curious about my ABV in the end! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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