Hairy Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Sorry' date=' I must be missing something. [img']crying[/img] I thought the kegs, and the beer lines from the keg to the font are all totally contained within the kegerator. Yep, the cold air circulates around the kegerator but it doesn't really go up the font. This causes the beer sitting in the beer line in the font to be a little warmer. The font snake sucks up cold air from the fridge and directs it up the font to cool that length of beer line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 The kegs and most of the beer line are contained within the kegerator itself, yes, but the font is mounted on top of it and as such the section of the beer line that is inside the font between the top of the kegerator to the shanks is essentially out in the open air. I worked out last night that this 300mm or so length of 5mm ID line only holds about 6mL of beer. But I think it would take the cold beer a bit more than that volume to chill the line down when pouring. Or, what Hairy said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 Quick update, the new cupboard is in place and the space is now open so I will be going to get the kegerator one day next week and setting it up ready for the first keg next weekend. Exciting times! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DylanL7 Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 So exciting! Bet you cant wait to pour your first beer on tap. Would love to eventually upgrade one day, need to improve My brewing skills first though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 Definitely looking forward to that first beer on tap! This momentous occasion will have to be photographed as well. I'm gonna order that font snake thing tonight too so that's here in time, and also some bulk pure sodium percarbonate (20kg pail) for cleaning lines and taps instead of Napisan type products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Well I went and got the kegerator today and have just been attaching the beer lines to the shanks and fitting the taps so at least that part is over. I thought I'd grab a couple of pics, obviously it isn't completely finished yet but close enough. Note: I do have a drip tray, I just forgot to put it there for the pics. I'll also be moving it out of that area that gets sun on it too, for obvious reasons. And a bit of a closer view of the tap tower itself: Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopsgood Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Looks awesome! Keep the pics coming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Looks great Kelsey! Now for the beer! Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Cheers guys! Yes, looking forward to kegging that first batch which I'll be doing on either Saturday or Sunday. I'm gonna use the Ross carbonation method on it just so I can pour one straight away but after that I will do my best to leave it alone. One question though. There don't appear to be any markings inside the keg as to where to fill it to. How far up do you fill it? Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 One question though. There don't appear to be any markings inside the keg as to where to fill it to. How far up do you fill it? I fill my keg to within about an inch of the gas-in valve dip tube (the short one! ) Good luck with your "Ross carbonation method" (whatever that is? ) Cheers' date=' Lusty.[/size'] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Cool, I'll check one out soon and have a look but that sounds pretty simple. It's basically the same as your fast carbing method except you hook the gas line up to the beer out disconnect, it then enters the beer through the dip tube so you don't have to roll the keg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Cool' date=' I'll check one out soon and have a look but that sounds pretty simple. It's basically the same as your fast carbing method except you hook the gas line up to the beer out disconnect, it then enters the beer through the dip tube so you don't have to roll the keg. [/quote'] I'm not sure when you purchased your components whether you looked into this or not, but the valves & disconnects for "gas-in" & "beer-out" are generally of different sizes & made so for deliberate reasons so you can't accidentally place them on the wrong post. Some keggers do use the same sized valves, but I choose not to. If in fact you do have different sized valves & disconnects for your gas-in & beer-out, simply do as I do, & invert the keg or roll it when force carbonating it, as it achieves the same thing. Cheers, Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 I think you've misunderstood what I meant there. It's not changing the posts that the disconnects themselves are fitted to - it's simply connecting the gas line into the liquid disconnect instead of the beer line. The push in fittings that screw into the disconnects themselves to connect the line to are all the same size. There's a thread about it on AHB, from all reports it works just as well as inverting/rolling does. Just had a look inside one of them - there's a weld line about the point where you said you fill it to, so that will be my reference point for filling! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnaman Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 There's a thread about it on AHB' date=' from all reports it works just as well as inverting/rolling does. [/quote'] Come on Otto now your just stirring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 It's not too bad now, it looks as if a number of the morons who were there have either been banned or stopped posting. Anyway... the method was originally detailed by Ross from Craftbrewer I believe, hence why it's called the "Ross method". He knows his stuff, and if he's come up with a method, chances are it works very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnaman Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 My dig was more Lusty & AHB. Lots of cool info over there. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Ah. Fair enough then. There is yeah. A fair few very knowledgeable cats over there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I think you've misunderstood what I meant there. It's not changing the posts that the disconnects themselves are fitted to - it's simply connecting the gas line into the liquid disconnect instead of the beer line. Unless Ross is re-fitting the postmix kegs he sells with same sized valves on both gas-in & beer-out' date=' I must admit I am a little intrigued in how this is done given the standard valves on these post mix kegs are two different sizes. This I gotta see. Cheers, Lusty.[/size'] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Because the push in fittings that the actual line goes into are exactly the same for both gas and liquid disconnects, so it makes no difference. The disconnects/posts themselves are different, yes, but the fittings aren't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hi Kelsey. Because the push in fittings that the actual line goes into are exactly the same for both gas and liquid disconnects' date=' so it makes no difference. The disconnects/posts themselves are different, yes, but the fittings aren't.[/quote']Do both your disconnects fit on either valve securely? Generally the beer-out (liquid out) disconnect is black (or grey), & the gas line disconnect is white. What are yours? Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hi mate, You're still confused I think. I have a couple of pictures that should hopefully clear things up. Mine are black and grey, and they fit on their respective posts as they should. This thing here, screws into them, and is what the line goes into: And as you can see here, both disconnects have the same thread on them for screwing that push in fitting onto them: So, the disconnects don't go on the wrong posts, I simply put the gas line into the liquid disconnect in exactly the same way as I would put it into the gas disconnect - via the push in fitting. I hope that helps clear up what I'm talking about! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Ahh...I see. You've got some changeable screw-in fittings that you can interchange on the end of the disconnects. I'm currently using the barbed disconnects. I think yours may be the "John Guest" fittings. Thanks for going to the trouble of posting the pics. Comprende` Muchacho! I look forward to seeing a pic of your Bohemian Pilsner in the glass. Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 AH, and there is the source of the confusion. I didn't realise you had the barbed versions. No worries on the pics Yeah, they are JG fittings. I was going to get the barbed ones but it was explained to me that these are easier to deal with and I can understand why, unless they start leaking of course. Certainly it makes it a lot easier to use this alternate fast carbing method, and even changing kegs I suppose as I don't have to remove the actual disconnects necessarily. And I'm looking forward to pouring one or two on Sunday too! Edit: Wait a minute, I will have to remove them, I only have 3 of each, and 4 kegs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 Right, well, the keg fridge is basically all ready to go now. All that is left to do is plug it in, turn it on, fill a keg, gas the keg, stick it in the fridge and hook it up to a tap and wait a day or so. I will be using the quick carbing method on this first one purely so I can do a ceremonial first pour on Sunday, but subsequent ones will most likely get the set and forget method i.e. just hook them up at pouring pressure and wait a week or two. The pic is a bit blurred but phones are hard to keep stable. Cheers Kelsey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerlust Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Hi Kelsey. Is your C02 bottle mounted externally at the rear of the fridge? Lusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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