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Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone


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Brewmeisters,

 

Have seen this recipe below at a couple of places on the web, supposedly sourced from the master brewer that makes this tasty drop.

 

 

I was hoping to make this one, however was also keen to load up on a bag of weyermann pils malt to brew lagers/pils later on this year. Do you think using the pils malt in place of the base Pale Malt(2-row) America'' below, would work out ok for the SNPA?

 

 

 

 

SNPA Clone

 

A ProMash Recipe Report

 

 

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines

10-A American Ale, American Pale Ale

 

Min OG: 1.045 Max OG: 1.060

Min IBU: 30 Max IBU: 54

Min Clr: 5 Max Clr: 14 Color in SRM, Lovibond

 

 

Recipe Specifics

Batch Size (Gal): 5.50 Wort Size (Gal): 5.50

Total Grain (Lbs): 11.58

Anticipated OG: 1.053 Plato: 13.02

Anticipated SRM: 11.3

Anticipated IBU: 34.0

Brewhouse Efficiency: 70 %

Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

 

 

Pre-Boil Amounts

Evaporation Rate: 15.00 Percent Per Hour

Pre-Boil Wort Size: 6.47 Gal

Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.045 SG 11.14 Plato

 

 

Formulas Used

Brewhouse Efficiency and Predicted Gravity based on Method #1, Potential Used.

Final Gravity Calculation Based on Points.

Hard Value of Sucrose applied. Value for recipe: 46.2100 ppppg

% Yield Type used in Gravity Prediction: Fine Grind Dry Basis.

 

Color Formula Used: Morey

Hop IBU Formula Used: TinsethTinseth Concentration Factor: 1.30

 

 

Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM

12.5 1.45 lbs. Crystal 60L America 1.034 60

87.5 10.13 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) America 1.036 2

 

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.

 

Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time

0.37 oz. Magnum Whole 14.00 17.5 60 min

0.46 oz. Perle Whole 8.25 10.0 30 min

0.91 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 6.5 10 min

1.84 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 0.0 0 min

 

 

Extras

Amount Name Type Time

0.00 Oz Whirfloc Fining 0 Days(boil)

 

 

Yeast

White Labs WLP001 California Ale

 

 

Water Profile

Profile:

Profile known for:

Calcium(Ca): 0.0 ppm

Magnesium(Mg): 0.0 ppm

Sodium(Na): 0.0 ppm

Sulfate(SO4): 0.0 ppm

Chloride(Cl): 0.0 ppm

biCarbonate(HCO3): 0.0 ppm

pH: 0.00

 

 

Mash Schedule

Mash Type: Single Step

Grain Lbs: 11.58

Water Qts: 24.53 Before Additional Infusions

Water Gal: 6.13 Before Additional Infusions

Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 2.12 Before Additional Infusions

 

Rest Temp Time

Saccharification Rest: 153 60 Min

Mash-out Rest: 168 15 Min

Sparge: 170 60 Min

 

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I've brewed this recipe twice, second time with Maris Otter I think. It's a brilliant recipe, could hardly tell the difference between mine and the original. Anyway, I suppose you could use pilsner malt as the base but I don't think it would turn out as well as using ale malt of some sort. It lends a different flavour to the beer, and may influence the flavour. Not saying it'd be bad, but I reckon it would be different.

 

What size batch is that recipe based on? This is the recipe I used, converted to proper measurements (metric tongue) and scaled to fit my 25 litre batches:

 

 

Mash at 65 C for 90 minutes; 78 C mash out for 10 minutes

5.220 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.6 EBC) Grain 1 92.1 %

0.450 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (145.0 EBC) Grain 2 7.9 %

 

70-75 minute boil

19.00 g Magnum [12.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 3 21.4 IBUs

18.00 g Perle [7.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 4 8.9 IBUs

30.00 g Cascade [7.60 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 5 7.6 IBUs

60.00 g Cascade [7.60 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 0.0 min Hop 6 0.0 IBUs

1.0 pkg American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056)

 

I always keep the Cascade and Perle amounts the same, but change the Magnum depending on its AA% in order to keep it around that 38-40 IBUs that SNPA actually is. Also, I only used Crystal 80 because that's what I have. It did make the beer slightly darker than the original but the flavour and aroma of it were spot on.

 

Cheers

 

Kelsey

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Headmaster.

 

Broken down, the recipe is far more simpler than what you have displayed.

 

That said, given your brewing practices & the ingredient list, yes this is the way I would brew the recipe.

 

Regardless of your level of brewing, it is a beer recipe that equates to a lovely beer to drink. rightful

 

Good luck with your approach & version. wink

 

Cheers,

 

Lusty.

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The difference in pilsner and pale malts are definite but somewhat subtle.

 

Pale (ale) is slightly more modified and imparts more "maltiness" flavour than a pilsner malt (and significantly more than premium pilsner). Whether you wish to substitute pilsner for pale will also be determined somewhat by how much and what types of specialty malts you'll be using.

 

You might find this link worth reading. Cheers, Big Boy.

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Converted to metric and added some changes to suit BIAB, 60 to 90 mins for mash, changed malts to those available locally etc.

 

This is next on my list of brews. No dry hop in the original recipe online, but I might take some of the ) min cascade and dry hop with it, maybe 20 grams.

 

 

 

SNPA CLONE

 

Batch Size (ltrs): 24.6 Wort Size (ltrs): 24.6

Total Grain 5.667kg

Anticipated OG: 1.053

Anticipated SRM: 8.0

Anticipated IBU: 37.0

Brewhouse Efficiency: 77 %

Mash time 90 mins

Wort Boil Time: 70 Minutes

 

Actual OG: 1.053

Actual FG: 1.011

 

Alc by Volume: 5.39%

Pre-Boil Amounts

 

Pre-Boil Wort Size: 31.13 litres

Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.042 SG

 

Colour/Bitterness Formulas Used

-------------

Color Formula Used: Morey

Hop IBU Formula Used: Tinseth

 

Grain

 

% Amount Name Origin SRM

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

8.0% 453 grams CaraMunich III (or Crystal 60L America 60)

92.0% 5216 grams Pale Malt (2-row) Maris Otter (or America 2)

 

Hops

 

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

14.2g Magnum Pellet 13.60 25.4 60 min.

14.2g Perle Pellet 7.70 7.3 30 min.

28.4g Cascade Pellet 5.80 4.3 10 min.

56.7g Cascade Pellet 5.45 0.0 0 min.

 

 

Yeast

-----

 

S-05, US-56, 1056 or WL 001

 

 

 

Mash Schedule

-------------

 

Mash Type: Single Step

 

Grain Kg: 5.66

 

Saccharification Rest Temp: 67.22C Time: 90 mins

Mash-out Rest Temp: 75.55 Time: 5 mins

 

 

Boil Time (min): 70.00

 

 

(3V notes: This formulation will yield 19.53 litres of fermentable wort. imagine a couple of litres more if BIAB)

 

You will need 37.85 litres of water for the complete brewing session.

 

Days In Primary: 7

Primary Temperature: 20 degrees C

 

Carbonate to 2.4 volumes of CO2

 

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I don't know if you've already bought the malt for this one, but if you have I'm sure you'll get a very tasty drop out of it. If not, Maris probably wouldn't be my first choice for a moderately hoppy pale ale in this style. It'd be interesting to get an opinion from Hairy or Paul etc in case I've missed something, but let me explain my reasoning.

 

PAs tend to be more hop forward than many other types of ales. When I've used Maris (or even to a slightly lesser extent, Golden Promise), the characteristics that shines through is a biscuity and toasty influence in the malt. This is wonderful in, say, an English Bitter, a Bitter Ale or one of the many darker ales; but I think in a PA it might just fight a bit with the hops. With so much of the grain bill being MO I wonder how the balance might end up.

 

Don't get me wrong though, I luv MO and GP, yet this recipe is one that I'd leave to a straight forward ale malt or pale malt. Just my 2 cents.

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Whoops, looks like a rookie error of mine, thinking the maris otter was a suitable pale ale malt.

 

Have just received my 25 kilo sacks of base malt that I am planning to be using for the next 12 months or so, thomas fawcett maris otter and weyermann bohemian pils, but was hoping to include pale ales in my brews.

 

What about a blend of the above two base malts? Like 50/50 for this recipe?

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Remember Heddie, this is just my opinion (like the previous post) that represents one approach (i.e. mine) to recipe design and tastes. There is a lot to be said for experimenting to suit your own tastes and getting a wide range of opinions from many people (particularly experienced people).

 

Having said that and noting this is very subjective, I'm not terribly fussed on the 50:50 idea either. While the Bohemian malt is lovely in many styles, it's still a "maltier" version of pilsen malt; not as much as, say, Vienna or Munich, but heading in that direction. If it were me, I'd probably give Nick $53 and grab a sack of BarretBurston Ale.

 

I'm sorry I opened my mouth now because you could have stuck to your original plan and got a wonderful result, and not feel like I criticise your every move! Honesty is a curse, and my line of thinking may not suit your palate. So, Heddie, brew for yourself and no-one else!*

 

*Significant others with purse strings excepted.

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I'll come in to bat for the MO in pale ales team haha..

 

I've brewed a million pales including this one with MO as a base malt and I think it works brilliantly in them. I do agree with Phil's comments and observations of its influence but I find it gets largely subdued by the hop influence. And this probably demonstrates the subjective nature of it.

 

I would go ahead as planned although I would stick true to the recipe the first time around and change it the next time if you feel it could use some tweaking to your own tastes. SNPA itself isn't dry hopped, and the home brew version of the recipe is one of the best I've brewed. I personally don't think it needs a dry hop as the 60g cascade at flameout does a serviceable job, but in saying that, a dry hop wouldn't do any harm. If I was to dry hop it though I would add these as extra rather than taking them from the flameout addition.

 

 

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As always, thanks for the valuable input. Had actually completely forgotten you'd posted your version of this Otto. Looks kind of similar to what I arrived at, I'm currently tweaking the hops additions in my brewcipher XLS to end up with that 40 IBU's. Interestingly that sheet includes bitterness for flameout hops and has an average temp input for those hops and a an amount of time at this average temp.

 

Adds 11.8 IBU's for 56.7g of cascade at 7.2% AA for 10 mins at average 97 degrees:

 

Flameout/Whirlpool/Hopstand Hops

Hop Type (L/P) Grams Avg Temp Minutes AA% AA% Override +IBUs

Cascade 56.7 97 10 7.2 11.8

---Select Hop--- 0 0.0

---Select Hop--- 0 0.0

---Select Hop--- 0 0.0

---Select Hop--- 0 0.0

Target Post-Boil contribution to Modified IBUs: Total: 11.8

 

Itching to get brewing again, after making a few improvements to my kettle, may even have a crack at it tonight, and may as well just run with the MO, but I really do appreciate being pulled up by the friendly brewing constabulary and shown the ropes :-)

 

 

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Yeah, all I did was convert the measurements to metric and scale them to fit my 25 litre size batches, and then rounded the amounts on the Cascade additions because at least on the second go, I bought a 90g bag from Craftbrewer especially for the recipe, so rather than have 6g or whatever left over I used the whole lot.

 

You will extract some bitterness from the flameout addition, though when I brewed my versions it didn't cause the finished beer to be perceptively more bitter than intended, even with no-chilling it in a cube, at least to my tastebuds and my girlfriend at the time. Both of us thought it was difficult to tell the difference between the original and the one we brewed. I suppose with myself having more tasting experience I could pick up subtle differences but overall it was pretty bloody close.

 

I'd go with the MO over a 50/50 mix myself. I don't know whether it's because of the way I construct my pale ale recipes, having the bitterness at the higher end of the scale, but yeah I don't find that it overpowers the hop influence. They all end up well balanced to my taste. In a more lowly hopped pale ale than I brew, or than SNPA itself, it would dominate more though I would think.

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"Although I did find the little brown pump had given up it's little brown ghost by the time I got back, possibly it might have been clogged with some krudd. "

 

Pulled the little brown pump apart, was a hair that had got in (too long to be one of mine) would have been in the grains I guess. Maybe a Chelsea girl working at the place that malts Maris Otter.

 

Anyway, once removed it runs just fine again.

 

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Yeah, that would have been yeast in suspension. Even when I CC for a week or two it doesn't drop all the yeast out of suspension. It does drop enough out to result in quite a bit less sediment in bottles though.

 

The 'mistake' will probably result in a slightly lighter colour. Perhaps less body as well but maybe not. I read a theory about using specialty grains (like crystal) in the mash with the rest of the grist not really contributing as much body as they do when steeped separately, the reason? The enzymes in the base malts also convert some of the starches in the crystal. This is part of a post on AHB about it, which makes perfect sense to me to be honest - it goes on to document an experiment done on it as well:

 

Let's start by taking it as fact that crystal malts contain a lot of unfermentable sugar after the malting process. I've never seen a crystal malt spec sheet showing the breakdown of the sugar content, but there seems to be evidence to support this, so let's roll with it. During the malting process the grain essentially starts to germinate; the starch converting enzymes start working away creating sugar. Before too much of the sugar is used by the seed for growth, the process is stopped, typically by dry heat. Part of this step is to denature the enzymes. Now you have grain with a high sugar content and no diastatic power. So it makes sense that if you steep crystal malt in the absence of starch converting enzymes then the resulting sweet liquor will contain a substantial amount of unfermentable sugar. So in extract + specialty grains brewing the old theory seems reasonable.

 

What happens if you bring other malts in to the equation? Most of the time in all grain brewing the crystal malts are mashed in with all the other malts. Modern base malts are high in diastatic power, so there's plenty of enzymes to go around and any low diastatic malts used in relatively small amounts convert just fine. But we're supposed to believe that the enzymes from the non-crystal malts that convert long chain molecules from those non-crystal malts in to smaller fermentable molecules won't do the same thing to the long chain sugars from the crystal malt? That seems pretty suspect to me. Are the enzymes xenophobic or something? Is there some sort of magical force field around the sugars from the crystal malt?

 

Probably explains why my beers still attenuate quite well even with the use of crystal grains and other malts that contain a lot of unfermentable sugars - they all get mashed together with the base malt anyway.

 

Anyway, the point of all that is basically that I don't think it will have a huge impact on the final beer. It may not taste as it would have if you'd used the Crystal grains, but I imagine the difference would be subtle and you'll still have a bloody tasty beer on your hands. biggrin

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I do hope it will be tasty. Regarding the above theories, not sure I understand what they are getting at, why non the fermentable sugars in the crystal would be reduced or affected by the enzymes active during the mash. All I would expect is any small amount of unconverted starches in the crystal would be converted, increasing OG slightly.

 

Anyway, last night once I had the SNPA in the 20 litre HDPE jerry, after squeezing out the air, I let it sit for only a few minutes, measured the temp at about 85c (thermo probe squashed between it and some yogamat on the garage floor) before I took it out to sit in the swimming pool in the backyard, pretty much on the stroke of midnight. If the neighbors saw me they would have wondered what the hell I was doing out there.

 

Anyway I left in there for only about 7-8 mins, then back into the garage, same as my last brew, those few mins in the pool stripped a good 40c out of it, measured in at 46c. Pool is currently very cold about 11C.

 

Last time I left it in the jerry hot for longer, to ensure the bugs were annihilated in there. This time I was worried about that 60gram late cascade flameout aroma hop morphing into flavour/bitterness, so wanted to at least get below isomerisation temp which I think is 79C.

 

Will find out when I get home today if it was long enough to sterilise the jerry, as I suppose you would start to see a CO2 headspace forming (I squeezed pretty much all the air out of it) I guess worst case the jerry could blow up and make a helluva mess. Going to put in on tonight in any case.

 

I also didn't hit the jerry with percarbonate or idophor after its last use, but did rinse it very well and used it for carrying the strike water etc, must have been rinsed several times. I guess I just figured it looked very clean and would be sterilised by the hot wort next time. Do you NC chaps generally clean up your cubes/jerries with chemicals after use?

 

 

 

 

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I think the point it's making is that the sugars in all malts are unfermentable starches until the malts are mashed and the enzymes break down these starches into fermentable sugars.

If you are mashing a full grain bill with base malts and crystal malts together, the enzymes convert all starches, regardless of what malt they came from, so while yes it will increase the OG, it won't increase the FG much at all. It's different to steeping crystal on its own, where there are no enzymes available to convert anything, so the sugars extracted remain unfermentable and thus increase the body and FG of the beer. This is why I said you probably won't notice much difference in body from using the wrong malt in the mash.

 

It may have been a better idea to chill it right down in the pool and pitch the yeast last night. I'm guessing you will likely be ok, but the whole idea of no chill is to leave it at hot temps for a period of time so that it does effectively sterilise the inside of the cube, negating the need to pitch yeast ASAP.

 

On my two goes at brewing this, the no-chilling had no real effect on adding extra unwanted bitterness to it. My versions were slightly more bitter than the original when they were young, but nothing I considered offensive. I actually enjoyed them more because they tasted more crisp and balanced. They also mellowed a little in time, but still maintained the crisp and balanced feel. It wasn't like old mate's NC experiment where his pale ale or whatever it was came out way over the top bitter. lol That is not something I have ever experienced with a NC batch, which is why I've never bothered adjusting hop additions for it.

 

The first time I brew anyone else's recipe, I don't adjust anything for NC, because most of the time the method and timing of chilling is not noted. How do I know how long the flameout hops were left in hot wort for? If I figure it needs adjusting after brewing as is, then I will make those changes on subsequent batches, rather than simply assuming things straight away. Most of the time changes aren't necessary, to my palate anyway. cool

 

I must admit I don't usually use anything on my cubes except hot water. Every few brews I do give them a soaking in Napisan though, just to remove some of the staining and whatever, but otherwise they just get rinsed with water, same as my urn. Never used starsan on them and never had any issues. Is it the best practice? Probably not. But it's worked for me for nearly 3 years.

 

Cheers

 

Kelsey

 

 

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Good to read about your experiences here Kelsey, thanks for that.

 

I guess I was a bit sensitive about the late addition, being so large with this one.

 

Anyway, got home and the cube/jerry was fine, no extra gas in the headspace. Lots of trub at the bottom though. I was so nervous about leaving the wort in the kettle at high temps, I didn't give the whirlfloc tab long enough to settle out all the break proteins or whatever the stuff is. I added the 60g of flameout cascade to the stainless hop spider, and left for 10 mins or so, then took the spider out, and then whirlpooled, but didn't want to leave it for another ten minutes. probably should have whirlpooled, then added the hops to the spider and carefully infused them during the 10 minute stand, and not stirred up the break again. Anyway, it's all a learning experience. And going by your experience, what I've done is unlikely to result in an off the charts bitterness level.

 

I poured the wort for this SNPA in to the fermenter this morning, kept the jerry at 18c in the fridge overnight. Tried a stocking trub filter, by boiling up (to sterlise) a pair of stockings, and fitted them over the coopers FV. Even though I poured the wort through one of the legs, which would be the finest unstretched weave of this thing, the trub at the bottom of the jerry pretty much went straight through. So I conclude the stocking idea is a waste of effort.. It captured very little of it. Might try a sterile chux filter next time. The wort itself was clear as a bell though.

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No worries mate. happy

 

That's exactly right though, it is all a learning experience, and the more batches you brew, the more things you will work out for your own system to make it run more smoothly and also achieve the results that you are after. It's probably equal parts fun and frustration because you tend to get a bit excited when you think of something that will improve things but a bit frustrated at things going a bit awry. lol

 

Shame to hear the stocking filter didn't work though. I had to use that method on the last pilsner when transferring to the bottling bucket. In that instance it worked quite well but perhaps the flow of liquid wasn't as fierce and it didn't force the trub through it. Either that or there wasn't much trub coming through the tap in the first place.

 

In saying that though, if you leave the hot wort in the kettle long enough for all the crap to settle out, you most likely won't get much in the cube. The layer of trub on the bottom after it cools down is the cold break.

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“Although I did find the little brown pump had given up it's little brown ghost by the time I got back, possibly it might have been clogged with some krudd. ”

 

Pulled the little brown pump apart, was a hair that had got in (too long to be one of mine) would have been in the grains I guess. Maybe a Cambridge girl working at the place that malts Maris Otter.

 

Anyway, once removed it runs just fine again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bottled this one last night. Didn't mind that I was bottling in the dead of night in a 7°c freezing cold garage, as from the taste of it, it's going to be a ripper. Can't fit them all in my 2nd fridge for carbonation, so smuggled a well packed milk crate of bottles in to work to hide under my desk, where it's always 22c :-).

 

Read that this pale started a bit of a pale ale revolution when it hit the market in California.

 

The history is an interesting read: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sierra_Nevada_Brewing_Company

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

This one turned out very well, with very good feedback from the beer appreciation society at work. A tad too high in ABV, at 6.7% though. They say it's just like a SNPA but a bit more aroma and fruity, will be the 20g dry hopped cascade. I can highly recommend this recipe!

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Now you'll have to brew one without the dry hop and you'll probably get it just about identical. tongue Just kidding around. For those who enjoy SNPA it really is a brilliant recipe that gets very very close to the original. Glad that yours has also turned out excellently mate. biggrin

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  • 1 month later...
I've brewed this recipe twice' date=' second time with Maris Otter I think. It's a brilliant recipe, could hardly tell the difference between mine and the original. Anyway, I suppose you could use pilsner malt as the base but I don't think it would turn out as well as using ale malt of some sort. It lends a different flavour to the beer, and may influence the flavour. Not saying it'd be bad, but I reckon it would be different.

 

What size batch is that recipe based on? This is the recipe I used, converted to proper measurements (metric [img']tongue[/img]) and scaled to fit my 25 litre batches:

 

 

Mash at 65 C for 90 minutes; 78 C mash out for 10 minutes

5.220 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.6 EBC) Grain 1 92.1 %

0.450 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (145.0 EBC) Grain 2 7.9 %

 

70-75 minute boil

19.00 g Magnum [12.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 3 21.4 IBUs

18.00 g Perle [7.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 4 8.9 IBUs

30.00 g Cascade [7.60 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 5 7.6 IBUs

60.00 g Cascade [7.60 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 0.0 min Hop 6 0.0 IBUs

1.0 pkg American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056)

 

I always keep the Cascade and Perle amounts the same, but change the Magnum depending on its AA% in order to keep it around that 38-40 IBUs that SNPA actually is. Also, I only used Crystal 80 because that's what I have. It did make the beer slightly darker than the original but the flavour and aroma of it were spot on.

 

Cheers

 

Kelsey

 

 

 

 

 

Hey buddy, I'm doing my first BIAB tomorrow, using pretty much this exact recipe except for minor adjustments to allow for AA %'s , but didn't see how long you leave the last cascade flameout addition in for. I'm no chilling it as well so am expecting similar results, but putting that recipe into beersmith if I put say 20 mins onto the whirlpool/steep addition the IBU's blow out. If I leave it at 0 mins the expected numbers are spot on. Is this right? Does the flameout not add IBU's?

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Hi mate,

 

The flameout addition will add IBUs, however, I've never noticed any great effect on the finished beer from them. Fermentation itself decreases bitterness a little, so perhaps the 38IBU on the original beer is measured after fermentation, and even though the clone version starts higher, the fermentation brings it back, but I don't know at what point the IBUs are measured on the commercial beer.

 

After I throw in the flameout hops, I leave the urn to sit for 15 minutes before draining to the cube. This is standard procedure on all batches I brew, regardless of flameout hops being added or not.

 

Another thing I do with this recipe is to leave all additions the same except for the Magnum, which I adjust for AA% to keep it at that 38 IBU level.

 

I actually stuck my thermometer in the urn on yesterday's brew day to see how far it dropped during this 15 minute stand; it dropped to around 92C, and went into the cube at this temp.

 

Cheers

 

Kelsey

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