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2 weeks and 2 days, not happy!


just Browny

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G'day fellas.

Sandard Coopers draught. BE1. Heat mat with temp control. 1" thick industrial pipe insulation wrapped around standard older type plastic barrel. Constant 23 deg.

I've brewed dozens of Draughts and lately the classic stuff, last one was an Irish stout for Winter.

Yeast looked great and it took off straight up and did it's thing.

It always takes 2 weeks for all my beers to relax but this one: the water level reads heaps of pressure still, it's all up one side with no water on the other.

I dont bother taking a hydro reading unless the water level is even, what's the bloody use?

Anyway fellas, after 2 weeks and 2 days is there some point where I should add another batch of proper yeast? My workmate whom I talk beer with with also brews Draught in an old fridge with a heat pad and temp control. His is done in a week or so like the label says.

BUT. He's had a few of these bodgy batches too, he reckoned the yeast looked like sawdust.

This is no bloody good, is the yeast coming from China or what?

 

Cheers.

Browny

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Take a hydrometer reading to see what is happening (or what has happened); it may well be finished.

 

Ignore the airlock as it isn't a foolproof indicator that fermentation is finished or still continuing.

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Is there an echo in here? lol

 

Might as well continue it... yeah, agreed with everyone else, ignore the airlock, or run over it, or whatever, just don't take any notice of it as a fermentation activity guide because that's not what they're designed for. They're simply a barrier against the open air.

 

Mind you, so is a piece of tape over the airlock hole in the lid, and it doesn't cause anywhere near as much confusion. tongue

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Oh I have an idea.

What ya have to do is start chilling when it get to about 10 deg the water shod line up that's when you take your hydro sample but don't let it chill any further or else all the water will be on the reverse side and you will have to add more sugar to balance the pressure againlol

On a serious note give your fv a squeeze I think you will find it done, if everything is good, as in no wild yeast/bacteria yadda yadda

Cheers Chezza

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What a way to start my first thread, a bit like stuffin it up talking to sheilas as a young 'un.

Before I opened my trap on here I should've just checked. Reading is 0015. Tastes ok so t'morra night I'll run the bottles thru the dishwasher. I'm still stumped as to why pressure from the barrel is reading thru the water level, never seen that before!

What I normally do is sprinkle some sterilizer on the floor of dishwasher and bottle beer about 1 1/2 hrs later. Ive tested 3 types of sugar for secondary. Castor, normal white and BE2. I liked the head on CS best.

Funny things happen when home brewing I know it must've been the main topic around the camp fire apart from hunting game and shagging when early man discovered how to get pissed!

Cheers and thanks fella's.

Browny

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Welcome to the forum, JB! smile

 

Yep, you can usually expect a brew (1.7kg can + 1kg BE1 to 23 litres) to pull up in the range 1012 to 1016, so 1015 is okay.

 

Have a read of this FAQ regarding airlocks.

 

Our enhancers are not intended for use as priming sugar. Also, you most likely get better head on your beer primed with Caster Sugar because the bottles have been dosed with a bit more sugar - being smaller granules more of it can fit in a measuring spoon. wink

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Yeah, I think be careful too now with CS. I've had a few gassy longnecks when it pours in, too gassy and I open another bottle so as to keep it open overnight in the shed fridge where I drink of course, and after work it pours better. Still, I'd rather get it right, it's not as bad as having to pour the beer in hard to get a head which never stays long; for 27 bloody bottles!

Cheers mate

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