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King Ruddager

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I've got all the ingredients on hand to make what will hopefully be a nice stout. Not too high in gravity or bitterness so should be nice by mid winter. I did a couple of tasty stouts last year without any crystal malt, so this time I'm including some for experimentation's sake. 

Aiming for 11l in the fermenter at 1.054 OG, 37 IBU and 100 EBC. No sparge 90 min mash, 60 min boil, no-chill in the kettle, fermented with WLP028 slurry.

3kg Coopers schooner ale malt

300g Voyager Chocolate malt

100g Joe White roasted barley

100g Simpson's Medium Crystal malt 

100g Simpson's Light Crystal malt 

35g EKG at FWH

Cheers, 

John

Edited by porschemad911
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  • 1 month later...

Next up:

1. ESB - using Gladfields Ale malt and medium crystal.
2. Milkshake IPA - still undecided on this but I want to brew one for a bit of fun. Perhaps with El Dorado, Citra and Huell Melon hops plus vanilla.
3. Pale Ale - my usual pale ale grist with hops to be determined. It might be a freezer cleanout Frankenstein beer.

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58 minutes ago, Beer Baron said:

What is your usual grist??

It used to be:

85% Maris Otter
10% Munich 1
5% Caramunich 1

Now that I have my mill, it is:

85% Gladfields American Ale malt
10% Gladfields Munich 1
5% Gladfields Supernova

If fermenting with Wyeast 1450 then I mash it a little lower.

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That's very similar to my standard pale grist! I have 85% base (usually MO or Schooner), 10% munich and 5% of whatever crystal takes my fancy at the time. I might've even stolen it from you ... can't remember exactly how I settled on mine?

2 hours ago, Hairy said:

1. ESB - using Gladfields Ale malt and medium crystal.

So what's the recipe for this? I need to make a proper ESB soon

Edited by King Ruddager
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3 minutes ago, King Ruddager said:

That's very similar to my standard pale grist! I have 85% base (usually MO or Schooner), 10% munich and 5% of whatever crystal takes my fancy at the time. I might've even stolen it from you ... can't remember exactly how I settled on mine?

So what's the recipe for this? I need to make a proper ESB soon

My usual ESB grain bill isn't a proper ESB, but I like it.

This one will be more traditional. I was given some free grain with my mill; 5kg Gladfield Ale malt and 1kg Medium Crystal.

I will probably go with:

4.7kg Gladfield Ale malt (apparently it is similar to an English style grain)
0.3kg Medium Crystal

I will bitter with Target but haven't worked out the rest. Yeast will be Wyeast 1469 - West Yorkshire Ale.

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My pale ale grist is similar as well, percentages are slightly different due to my use of acid malt but otherwise the main three are pale malt, Munich II and medium crystal. My current pale malt is BB ale, but I'll go back to Gladfield ale next lot as I enjoyed that one. It was similar to Maris otter but I got better efficiency with it and it's usually cheaper too. 

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I use Gladfield exclusively and their ale malt has featured in pretty much all my bitters.  I also found a small amount of their biscuit malt to be a nice addition.   I was just wondering what to brew next and I think now I may return to a previous bitter recipe which I quite liked, with some modifications.   It was a 50/50 partial with ale malt,  5% med crystal, 5% biscuit and 10% GF Aurora malt.  I'll probably throw in the usual fuggles and EKG.   Actually speaking of fuggles there used to be a craft beer sold here on tap called "Fuggles".   It was a super hoppy ESB which I really enjoyed.  Unfortunately the chain of pubs (C#ck 'n' Bull) that brewed it were gobbled up by the Lion empire and it, along with their other great beers disappeared forever.   😟

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After hearing how tasty the OS Dark Ale kit is, I want to do a Simcoe Black DIPL after my Aramis pils. Trying out the 'Bravo as a lifter hop' theory. Lager yeast should smooth out the roast and bitterness.

11l fermenter volume, 1.080 OG, 100 EBC, 100+ IBU

1.7kg Coopers OS Dark Ale (58% gravity points)
750g LDM (31% gravity points)
250g Dextrose (11% gravity points)

65g Simcoe (13.1% AA) at flameout - 15 min steep
10g Bravo (15.4% AA) at flameout - 15 min steep
65g Simcoe dry hop
10g Bravo dry hop

Fermented with a lot of Wyeast 2278 slurry at a fairly cold temp

Cheers,

John

Edited by porschemad911
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10 hours ago, King Ruddager said:

Hmmm, it's nice and cold at the moment, should I risk getting stuck in "lager mode" myself?

I don't have the patience to do them "properly".  But using a warm fermenting lager yeast and using other quick lager methods it seems a very good result is quite achievable in the same time it takes to brew an ale.  😎

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You should try a "proper" one sometime and compare against the quick ones. 

I have noticed with the "normal" lager yeasts fermenting low that they do need time to hit their peak. They're not bad after fermentation and a short lager but they really improve with extended lagering.

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4 hours ago, BlackSands said:

I don't have the patience to do them "properly".  But using a warm fermenting lager yeast and using other quick lager methods it seems a very good result is quite achievable in the same time it takes to brew an ale.  😎

Have you used the proper Kolsch yeast strains Blacksands?  WLP029 and WY2565 (from memory).

 

I'm on Gen 4 for my WLP029 and I highly recommend this strain for a very clean tasting ale beer that really tastes like a hybrid between lager and ale.  I ferment at 16C.

 

@The Captain!! you also need to brew yourself a classic Kolschbier with only a bittering charge of hops, no flavour and aroma hops and a very plain malt grist.  Let that yeast shine and I think you will like the result!

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1 minute ago, joolbag said:

 

@The Captain!! you also need to brew yourself a classic Kolschbier with only a bittering charge of hops, no flavour and aroma hops and a very plain malt grist.  Let that yeast shine and I think you will like the result!

Yeah this is something that I am looking into for spring I think. Still too many other beers I’ve said yes to but capacity stops me

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2 minutes ago, joolbag said:

Have you used the proper Kolsch yeast strains Blacksands?  WLP029 and WY2565 (from memory).

No. Mainly because of price, but also the fact that a starter is often required and call me lazy, but I'm a bit reluctant to get into that extra step!    

They're really expensive here, around 3 x the price of a dry yeast and that's just too much to pay for less cells than a 10 - 11.5 packet of dry yeast IMO.   

The other issue is the short shelf life of liquid yeasts.  Stocks are often already 2 months old when they arrive here.  They're problematic for retailers with relatively low turn over of the product. When I managed my LHBS I was occasionally caught out by expired stock and in the end I was throwing out nearly as much expired Whitelabs as I was actually selling!  

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They are around 3 x the price of dry yeast here too.  Depends on the supplier and the LHBS though, but usually over 2x the price and up to 4x the price esp if buying 200bn cell pitch packets.

 

6 minutes ago, BlackSands said:

When I managed my LHBS I was occasionally caught out by expired stock and in the end I was throwing out nearly as much expired Whitelabs as I was actually selling! 

 

Were you not able to purchase/get for free some of these expired WLP packets?  I believe that they are recoverable if you build a starter - possibly stepped starters if they are well and truly out of date.  I know one LHBS sells them at a heavy discount once they are getting old and I was told they will be fine if you build up the cell counts.

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1 minute ago, joolbag said:

Were you not able to purchase/get for free some of these expired WLP packets?  I believe that they are recoverable if you build a starter - possibly stepped starters if they are well and truly out of date.  I know one LHBS sells them at a heavy discount once they are getting old and I was told they will be fine if you build up the cell counts.

I know I threw out a lot of the more obscure strains of yeast, and also bacteria cultures used in sours etc.  But in hindsight I probably could have grabbed a few packets that were applicable to the style of beers I like to make and that weren't TOO far past their date - e.g. WLP090 San Diego Super, WLP004 Irish etc etc.  I guess I was comfortable with the dry yeasts I was using, and not having the kit to make starters anyway I just didn't bother at the time. 

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