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Munich malt will need to be mashed. But it is only 100g so you should give it a go.

 

Mashing is just steeping at a constant temperature so just steep it somewhere in the mid 60's degrees. As it is only 100g it isn't going to make much of a difference if the temps move a bit.

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Munich malt will need to be mashed. But it is only 100g so you should give it a go.

 

Mashing is just steeping at a constant temperature so just steep it somewhere in the mid 60's degrees. As it is only 100g it isn't going to make much of a difference if the temps move a bit.

 

Thanks for the reply Hairy.

 

I'm very new to the whole steeping/mashing side of brewing & am reading lots of material on procedures etc. as it is something I want to begin consistently adding into my brews. I am trying to absorb as much of that info as I can. Throw into that, some points & links Yob gave me about isomerisation of hops etc. (that I followed up on) and my head at times is about to explode! [lol]

 

As you stated, the Munich Malt has to mashed at a constant temperature of approx. 65\xb0C. Firstly, if you expose a grain of this type to a temperature higher than what is recommended, what are the side effects of doing this?

 

Secondly, I do my cooking of ingredients on a regular gas stove top. If attempting the proper method of mashing, how do I go about maintaining a constant temperature throughout the entire mash?

 

Steeping grains seems a lot easier from what I've read so far, but it does limit the types of grains you can effectively use to brew with. True?

 

Beer.

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If the Munich cannot be steeped I'll probably' date=' replace it with some pale Crystal instead.[/quote']

 

those grains are nothing alike and will bring very different things to the table...

 

100g is FA to add in a standard brew and I doubt it will be detectable.

 

Personally id go for minimum 500g when adding grains. (preferably 1Kg)

 

Also, watch the PH of the sparge water.

 

[rightful]

 

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If the Munich cannot be steeped I'll probably' date=' replace it with some pale Crystal instead.[/quote']

 

those grains are nothing alike and will bring very different things to the table...

 

100g is FA to add in a standard brew and I doubt it will be detectable.

 

Personally id go for minimum 500g when adding grains. (preferably 1Kg)

 

Also, watch the PH of the sparge water.

 

[rightful]

 

Thanks for the input Yob. [happy]

 

I figured the grain additive mentioned in BrendanS8's recipe would only have a minimal influence on the overall brew, but I would like to respect what he compiled & be able to comment on the brew he put forward without deviating too much.

 

When sparging, how much water do you run through the grain, & is it important what temperature that water is? Also, when talking about "watching the PH of the sparge, are we talking about a visual point where the water run through the grain begins to lack any real colour?

 

Beer.

 

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If you sparge with water that has a high PH level then you can extract tannins.

 

I wouldn't worry about it if you are only using a few hundred grams of grain. Actually, for the small amount of grains you are using I wouldn't bother sparging at all. Just use the first runnings and include in it the wort for your hop boil.

 

If you find mashing and hop isomerisation mind exploding then don't touch water chemistry [biggrin]

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Thanks Hairy. [joyful]

 

If you find mashing and hop isomerisation mind exploding then don't touch water chemistry

 

Funnily enough I have read a small amount on the subject of water PH in brewing & viewed a couple of videos & programs that explained various aspects of it. Definitely not any length I'll be going to! [tongue]

 

Out of curiosity Hairy, do you go to such lengths with the PH of your brew water? [unsure]

 

Beer.

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Hi guys.

 

I have just finished mixing up fellow Coopers forum member BrendanS8's "24 Carat Gold" recipe (from post#2 of this thread) in one of my fermenters.

 

I admit I did make some minor changes to it. (We just can't help ourselves can we?!!) [lol]

 

The dextrose I reduced to 300gms to lower the final bottled ABV to approx 5.0%, the Munich Malt I upped to 250gms, & I added 15gms of Cascade hops to the boil for 30mins, as the recipe seemed to be a little short of bitterness (IMHO).

 

The rest of the recipe was followed to the letter. I used the 500gms of LDM powder as a base for the hop boil/steep. The Wheat Malt, DME, & dextrose went straight into the FV.

 

Smelled really nice as I pitched the S-04 yeast, so I'll look forward to having a taste in a month or so.

 

Good on ya BrendanS8! [biggrin]

 

Beer.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm gonna add my to here, cos I reckon it's pretty good. The amber malt is maybe a bit too dark, so light malt may be ok too.

 

1 x Coopers Pale Ale Can

1 x Liquid Amber Malt (the one I used was Black Rock)

500g DME

15g Cascade pellets @ 40 mins

3 x Cascade plugs (11g each plug = 33 grams @ 10mins

3 x Cascade plugs at flame out

35g Galaxy flowers at flame out

15g galaxy flowers after day 3 - just for a bit more hoppiness

23L

15g US-05 yeast rehydrated.

Brew @ 20 degrees C

 

OG = 1.051

FG = 1.0125 (I reckon it was sitting in the middle)

ABV = 5.46% in the bottle after bulk priming

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I'm back. [biggrin] Could not handle the Forum with the black background. Found this new style Forum today. [joyful]

 

Anyway, here is a recipe for a Lager that I have made my house beer and always have a keg running. The locals and family just simply love it.

 

The grain bill is for 25 litres;

4.26 kgs of Best Pilsner Malt.

.260 kgs of Best Wheat Malt.

.320 Kgs of Best Carapils.

 

I am of the belief that "Best Malts" are renamed Hoepfner Malts

 

Mash at 66\xb0C for 90 minutes.

 

Boil for 90 minutes.

 

Hops used are the all New Zealand Motueka (formerly Saaz B) Cones.

 

Hop additions,

18 grams (7.90% AA) 90 mins.

18 grams (7.90% AA) 60 mins.

18 grams (7.90% AA) 10 mins. with \xbd whirlfloc tablet and \xbd teaspoon of yeast nutrient.

18 grams (7.90% AA) 2 mins.

 

Crash cool with immersion chiller and pitch two sachets of W34/70 dry yeast. Ferment at 10\xb0C until the krausen subsides and then give a diacetyl rest for two or three days at ambient temperature then crash cool to 0\xb0C for a further three days and then keg with one heaped teaspoon of gelatine powder dissolved in 1 cup of hot but not boiling water.

 

It's a winner. [biggrin]

 

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Welcome back to the forum Divey.

 

In my case, your timing could not have been better & your recipe more perfect. [joyful]

 

I am wanting to brew my first Lager since I got hold of my temp controlled brew fridge, & your recipe looks very nice. [happy]

 

I'm not in a position to effectively mash brew with any consistency yet, but I can certainly adapt your recipe to an extract base with some steeping. [biggrin]

 

I'm actually experimenting with a very similar base of malts, but using Nelson Sauvin as my hop choice.

 

Thanks for sharing your recipe, & I'm sure I'll get around to brewing it at some point.

 

Only 2 FV's, & sooo many cool brews to do. [pinched]

 

Anthony.

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Just an update on BrendanS8's recipe...

 

It goes into the bottle tomorrow. [joyful]

 

Then in 2 weeks time I'll begin posting my thoughts. [tongue]

 

That damn S-04 yeast better have been worth it! Hahaha! [lol]

 

Anthony.

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Hiya BrendanS8. [joyful]

 

Lusty' date=' don't stress, it'll be good[rightful']

 

I was just taking the mickey out of my first experience with using S-04 yeast. If you want a giggle, have a read of my thoughts during your brew (& other forum members) on S-04 yeast in the link below.

 

Linky: "Damn S-04 Yeast!"

 

Who's stressing? I can't wait to try it! [biggrin]

 

Anthony.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just an update on BrendanS8's recipe that I put down.

 

Had a taster earlier today. The S-04 yeast dominates the overall taste of the brew. It is very "British" in taste. Having never used the yeast prior to this brew, I would reserve its use for British style ales where it is definitely suited. The overall flavour is a bit sweeter than what I usually enjoy & aim for with my brews.

 

As the brew was incredibly slow starting primary ferment & that it was a consistent longish ale ferment, I wouldn't think diacetyl issues would even come into consideration.

 

Maybe it needs more time.

 

Anthony.

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Hi BrendanS8. [happy]

 

I'm going to let your brew age properly. I reckon it will drink better in a couple of months. [joyful]

 

The Canuck's (Canadian Eh!L) IPA recipe will be next when I can...

 

Cheers for the recipe Brendan. [cool]

 

Anthony.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys.

 

Sorry to drag up an old thread. [innocent]

 

I just wanted to give some praise where it's due.

 

BrendanS8's recipe from earlier in this thread that I brewed has aged very well a further 3 weeks on from my initial tasting. The early sweetness that I tasted (& disliked) has receded significantly & the hop character of the beer has become more prominent.

 

I'm looking forward to trying it again in another 2-3 weeks. [happy]

 

Nice recipe BrendanS8. [cool]

 

And that damn S-04 yeast, I may have to re-access!... [pinched]

 

...Not likely!! [lol] [tongue] [sideways] [biggrin]

 

Anthony.

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And that damn S-04 yeast' date=' I may have to re-access!... [pinched']

...Not likely!! [lol] [tongue] [sideways] [biggrin]

I gave up on S04 purely because I was having trouble rinsing from the trub. I made some great beers with S04 though. It was suggested to me on that other Forum to give it away and use a liquid yeast. I did and that was 5 months ago; I've only had to buy two strains, English Ale 1275 and the American standard 1056.

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Hiya Scottie. [happy]

 

I've only had to buy two strains' date=' English Ale 1275 and the American standard 1056.[/quote']

 

Just to "Throw the cat amongst the pigeons" for you, an award winning home brewer I know swears by the 1028 yeast. I've now tasted 6-7 different brews of his, (mainly darkish British types), & based on that, I'd have to say the strain is a winner.

 

I've now planted the seed. Hehehe! [lol]

 

Let me know if you ever use it in a brew & your thoughts. [cool]

 

Anthony.

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What are you guys on about with respect to S04? I'm just about to bottle my first beer using this yeast ... is there something I should know?

You've got to learn to read between the lines on my posts Rudd[roll] .

I made some great beers with S04
' date=' this inludes two of the four that are linked below. Don't stress Ruddager [cool']
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Canadian Eh!L from Golden, BC Canada. . .

 

....COME... ON... DOWN!!!....

 

YOU'RE THE SECOND CONTESTANT ON "BLOW YOUR OWN TRUMPET"! [lol]

 

Hiya Canadian Eh!L!

 

As promised, I said I will attempt to brew recipes kindly posted in this thread by forum members. I now have a free FV & this is a recipe I have been eyeing off for sometime. Canadian Eh!L's recipe is listed under post#9 of this thread & sounds right up my ally for the types of flavours I like. As I like to experiment, the interest to me personally in the recipe is the "Real Ale" kit tin & the wood chips that I have neither used yet in home brewing beer.

 

I will admit that I am going to alter the recipe slightly by using an equivalent amount of Caramalt grain in place of the 566gms of Amber Malt LME & I will be individually priming my bottles as I don't bulk prime for secondary fermentation. Apart from that, the recipe will be followed to the letter.

 

I would just ask the Canuck himself, for the best time to add the oak wood chips into the brew without interfering with the yeast pitch, & also best pitch temp & brewing temp. [unsure]

 

Depending on your response time, I can potentially get it in the FV tomorrow, if not, hopefully at the latest, by the end of Sunday. [cool]

 

I'm looking forward to brewing this one. [biggrin]

 

Anthony.

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