Fat Yak clone

[Raider]

Hi Guys,

 

I was looking at doing this Fat Yak clone:

 

1.7kg Coopers Pale ale

1kg Light Dry Malt

250 grams Dextrose

15g Cascade hops pellets @10min

15g Nelson Sauvin hops pellets \u2013 @10min

15g Nelson Sauvin hops pellets \u2013 @0min

15g Cascade hops pellets - dry hop

US-05 Yeast

 

I am just unsure about the 0min hop addition. Once you take the pot off the heat do you add the 0min hops and then strain it straight away or do you let it sit in the pot for a while before straining into the fermenter?

 

 

 

[scottj2]

Raider

i would let it sit for at least 15min.

[Guest]

A lot of people leave it in there for about 20 minutes. Still be mindful to try and cool asap though. Others just leave their flameout additions in there.

[Raider]

Thanks guys, I was going to use the strained liquid to dissolve the other ingredients but should I be cooling this down and then adding it?

 

[Guest]

You should cool it down to under 80C asap to avoid the chance of DMS building up. however, this is more apparent in large boils like full wort volume.

 

Some people even cool down their wort to 80C then add their flameout additions then let that sit for 20 minutes.

 

Something to think about..... if you only do a small boil, say 4L then cool to 80C and do your 0 min hop additions, let that sit for 20 minutes then add to the FV to disolve ingredients then top up with cold water, you should be right.

 

You shouldn't really have that much worry with what you said either... just a chance you take. 99% of the time it will be fine.

[NewtownClown]

DMS is not an issue with extract or kits, the precursors are already driven off in the extraction process. You can even boil full extracts with the lid on (and with a very watchful eye out for boil overs!)

 

If you are doing a "boil" with 2 litres of water, add 200 grams of your light DME for better hop utilisation.

 

Do you use a hop sock or something similar?

A 0 min hop addition is an aroma addition. I use a hop sock for all the earlier additions and throw the aroma additions directly into the wort and pour the lot in the fermenter and use a chux for dry hopping. 15 grams settles out fine and is not a problem when racking or bottling.

[Raider]

This is the first time I have used hops, I don't have a hop sock, I was going to just boil the hops loose and then strain into the fermenter.

 

So do you add the hop sock with the hops in it as well as the liquid into the fermenter?

 

Yeah I was going to do 2 1/2 litres of water with 250grams of LDM.

[Guest]

DMS is not an issue with extract or kits, the precursors are already driven off in the extraction process. You can even boil full extracts with the lid on (and with a very watchful eye out for boil overs!)

 

If you are doing a "boil" with 2 litres of water, add 200 grams of your light DME for better hop utilisation.

 

Do you use a hop sock or something similar?

A 0 min hop addition is an aroma addition. I use a hop sock for all the earlier additions and throw the aroma additions directly into the wort and pour the lot in the fermenter and use a chux for dry hopping. 15 grams settles out fine and is not a problem when racking or bottling.

 

So let me get this right.... are you also saying that DMS is not an issue with a hop boil that you add to your fermenter with Kits & Extract?... Correct me if I am wrong as I thought you create a wort of 1040 for a hop boil and this is still susceptible to DMS. Yes/No???

[NewtownClown]

No

I am sure Paul will concur that the concentration (evaporation) process in the manufacture of liquid and dry extract drives off the precursors for DMS.

 

If they were present, we would experience a presence of DMS in the fermenter when dumping a kit and a kilo of malt in with 2 litres of boiling water and using a sachet of dried yeast.

 

I've made many "quick" brews when in a hurry from 3-4 Kgs of DME & some crystal and only boil for 15 mins - just for the hops (you need a bucketful to get decent IBU, and with the DME, it makes an expensive brew).

 

As homebrewers, I believe we sweat over a lot of small issues that are really only a problem in larger operations that need to be consistent from batch to batch - even if that means consistently bad (Messers Fosters, Kirin, Carlton, et al).

 

Pitching a large starter of happy, healthy, active yeast and allowing it to clean up the nasties after fermentation has concluded will eliminate many of fears that a knowledgable homebrewer may have, eg DMS, HSA, Diacetyl etc. As does a good sanitation routine..

[Guest]

Thanks mate, I didn't know that and it's good to know. [innocent]

 

[weggl]

Raider, did this one, it is a wonderful beer.

CAN PALE ALE

1.3 DME-20 CASCADE - 20NELSON 10 MIN

15 NELSON FO- 170 DEX- CULTURED YEAST

23L

1.3 of DME because that was all I had and only had 170DEX, but it turnd out first class.

 

Warren