Greg Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Hi all, not sure how close i am with this one, but i am attempting to get something similar to London Pride - which i had plenty of when i was in the UK a while back. I was thinking: 2kg Ale Malt 250g Crystal malt Mashed in 67C water for 60 mins Sparge (with the kettle that has been brought to the boil and left standing for 5 minutes) Boil volume around 12 litres Add 30g fuggles @ 15 mins 15g fuggles @ 5 mins Add 500g LDM at completion of boil Add to fermenter and add Coopers Real Ale tin Cool to 18C Add English Ale yeast. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewtownClown Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Hi all, not sure how close i am with this one, but i am attempting to get something similar to London Pride - which i had plenty of when i was in the UK a while back. I was thinking: 2kg Ale Malt 250g Crystal malt Mashed in 67C water for 60 mins Sparge (with the kettle that has been brought to the boil and left standing for 5 minutes) Boil volume around 12 litres Add 30g fuggles @ 15 mins 15g fuggles @ 5 mins Add 500g LDM at completion of boil Add to fermenter and add Coopers Real Ale tin Cool to 18C Add English Ale yeast. Thoughts? Did you make this Greg? How was it? I am sure I have seen a whitelabs or wyeast London Pride liquid yeast... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 It turned out nothing like it... Im still thinking about it, but i think the kit base was the problem & the hops. I'm thinking a variation of my AG English Ale might be in order: 4.5 Maris Otter Malt 350g Crystal malt 50g Chocolate Malt Goldings bittered to 30 IBU Late Fuggles or EK Goldings Yeast = still unsure, i dont recall any yeast flavour, so a neutral yeast might do well Under prime Serve at 13-16 degrees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Greg, I am curious.... With regards to doing all grain, are you still just cracking your specialty grain or are you milling it with everything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 Bill, Doesnt really matter because specalty malts are only there to add colour, flavour and a little bit of body. You aren't extracting much sugers from these malts. I chucked my esky away because i was getting sick of the time wasting (and cleaning). I've joined the stovetop brigade using a bag made of swiss voile and a big arse pot that you can get from BigW. I buy my grain in bulk, so this comes unmilled. Because i BIAB, the crush of the grain isnt that important. I grind everything, base malt and specalty malts. I have never had a problem with hitting 75-80% efficiency with the method i use. If you get the brew shop to mill your base grain, you may as well get them the mill your specalty grains and combine them in the one bag for ease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Greg What is the time difference between BIAB and using an esky for mashing and lautering? I'm keen to get into all grain brewing but the main thing holding me back at the moment is the time commitment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Greg, I have a Marga Mill and 75kg grain I recently bought on a bulk buy for lager and ales and 3kg caramalt. I just recently acquired a nice sparkling new 40L crown urn and will be getting a bag in about a week. Could use Swiss Viole but am going the bag to start. I have a 19L pot from Big W which I was doing the odd thing in but I can't wait until I fire up the urn soon [love] Hairy, I believe everything is done in the bag for a true BIAB that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Bill, I wrote my last post in a bit of a rush so I probably wasn't very clear. I should have said "what is the time saving for BIAB vs Esky etc?". I was just wondering how much quicker it was not having to wait for the lautering and then sparging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 I am sure there is no timing saved either way and the advantage is one less vessel to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share Posted August 5, 2011 The biggest time wasting using the 'esky' is: - draining the wort from the grain - recirculating to get clear wort - sparging - using more vessles to heat water It really depends on whether you batch sparge or fly sparge. Fly sparging can take forever, depends on the amount of grain you have and your anticipated pre boil volume. I have done both methods, but notice i get slightly higher efficiency with a fly sparge. With a bag, you chuck your grain in that and then when the mash is over, you simply lift the heavy bugger out and squeeze the life out of it. Depending on your volume that you want in your fermenter, style etc, you may want to become creative with a sparge. Sparging with traditianal BIAB is not required. But, with my method, being high gravity brewing, you certainly need to. Cleaning up when using a bag is simple. Gather up the bag, turn it inside out, and chuck the grain on the compost, then wash the pot. Where as when using the esky, you have the scrape the grain out and rinse several times to get the remnant grains out. Wash the tun, pots, and other crap you used. All in all, i can get a AG BIAB (using my method) done from start to finish in about 3 hours, (this doesnt take into account cooling, i cube that overnight) and that usually includes a 90 minute mash. With an esky + batch sparge, you would be looking near 4 hours perhaps more. With an esky + fly sparge you would be looking at 5 hours plus. Using the esky has its benifits. I usually manage to get a much clearer finished beer, but i dont care about that. I care about the taste, and i get the same results with both systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 Thanks for the info Greg. A very informative post (I'm yet to do one of those[biggrin] ). I think I am heading in the BIAB direction, so I will do a little more research. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond4 Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 Brew your own mag. did a story about 6 months ago on the Fuller brewery and its history of brewing records. But at the end it had recipies for the London Pride both in the all grain and the extract with grain. Also their ESB Bitter was in there as well. Heres the link for the story : http://www.byo.com/component/resource/article/Indices/16-Breweries/2398-fuller-s-the-pride-of-london Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewtownClown Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 Fuller's London Pride, Fuller's ESB and Greene King Abbot Ale are all favourite's I would love to replicate(or improve!) Here is a re-brew of London Pride and ESB on the Jamil Show from the Brewing Network http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/692 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Alright, after 4 weeks in the bottle i tried the following recipe - which i think is pretty darn close: 4.5 kg Marris Otter malt 400g Crystal Goldings to 30 IBU @ 60 mins EK Goldings to 3 IBU @ 15 mins EK GOldings to 3 IBU @ 5 mins WLP002 yeast Result - pretty darn close. Beer is slightly hoppier than what i remember from the original. Very tasty though. Im quite pleased with it. This is not a beer to be served cold. I tasted one cold ~ 2 degrees and it lost probably 90% of the flavour. Serve warm or cellar temperature, say 13-16 degrees to get the most of the flavour. Dont chill your glass, and serve in an imperial pint glass with little to no head. Under prime, slightly more that what you would with a stout, but only slightly. I may make some further improvements to the recipe, as i think the hops/malt balance is still slightly out. Perhaps wrong combination? It still tastes great. [love] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewtownClown Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Sounds nice... The Fuller's website states the use of Target, Northdown and challenger. I am going to use Flaked Maize, British Crystal and an English 2-Row malt (maybe MO). Importantly, I am going to use Fuller's own yeast - Wyeast 1968 Special London. I've used it before in an ESB - great yeast! I am going to do a parti-gyle mash. I'll use the first runnings to brew an ESB and the second for London Pride because I believe this is what Fuller's do (one of the very few brewers who still parti-gyle). This has made me think. Is it possible to parti-gyle doing a BIAB? If I use two vessels and transfer the bag to the second after the initial mash, I could have two brews - the first wort for a big beer and the second wort for "son of big beer". I think it just a matter of calculating the volumes, perhaps a stiffer mash for the first wort.... I have two empty 15 lt cubes to no-chill in... Now I have plans for saturday - sweet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 I did see that Fullers use those hops, but i found it difficult to source those particular hops in my area. Might have to see whether Craftbrewer stocks them. Similarly with the yeast. My LHBS is pertty ordinary (ie only stocks dry yeast) and i had to get the yeast i used directly from CB when i was visting the mother in law. To do a parti-gyle mash, i would increase your grains to ensure that your London pride isnt "light". From memory, on draught (on tap) it comes around 3.5 - 4% al/vol. With BIAB, efficiency can be a problem, but really depends on the vessle you use. If you wanted to do a parti-gyle mash i would be using 3 vessles, potenially a HERMS system to ensure you get a decent 5% ESB and a 3.5-4% Ordinary bitter. I dont think i would have the balls to attempt it with BIAB. But then again, it would still be a nice beer, only lighter - potentially in body, and mouthfeel. Though you could correct it with dry malt if necessary, like a mini mash ? I must try Wyeast 1968 - where do you source it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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