Guest Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ sound advice ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Have at it with the additions mate, why suffer through an "OK" beer when you can make a stunning beer instead [lol] and BTW, the registration process has changed on AHB now, you should be able to set up an account and get access right away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Adding hops to a plain malt base pretty much guarantees you of a flavour profile you want without interference. Adding hops to a pre-hopped kit tin without any prior understanding of the impact of both the addition quantities of the added hop(s) measured in with the base flavours of a kit tin you have not tasted in it's basic form, can result in undesirable results with the end brew. As long as you've done your homework on the hops you plan to use, & have a full understanding of the flavours housed in the kit tin you plan to throw them at, you'll more than likely end up with a nice drinking beer at the end of it. Either that, or you can Heave Ho & hope for the best. [roll] Good luck with the brew David. [happy] Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Making a kit beer in its basic form may lead to 'undesirable results with the end beer'. If It is true that you must use a kit in its basic form to understand it then I should have brewed a Draught with BE1, tasted half a beer, tipped out the other 29 bottles and then proceeded to make something that I liked. David said he wanted to make a big American IPA not a kit & kilo brew. Who are we to tell him not too? Accordingly, advice was given to assist him. If you read that advice you will see that it didn't contain anything about throwing hops at it indiscriminately. Guidelines were given: - Use the kit for base bitterness - Hop additions from 20 minutes down - Aim for total IBU of around 70 - Use IanH's spreadsheet to assist with this The best way to experience and understand a hop is to use it. For me, even if I don't get the hop flavours quite right it will still taste better then most kits in their basic form [rightful] Edit: I was a bit tired and cranky this morning, sorry if I came across a bit gruff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddy Waters Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 I haven't really read much of this thread apart from the last couple of posts but....I agree with all of it...even the bits I didn't read [alien] . I've been known to say brew it as recommended then pimp it in the past but I'd strongly suggest taking Hairy's advice as gospel and hop it up. The IPA kit really returns the love when you add a shedload of appropriate hops [love] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidK20 Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Hey Anthony, thanks heaps for the advice dude. Totally understand where you're coming from mate. I guess I have been quite eager to just jump in head first. Being a newby, Im quite excited about trying different things and seeing the end results. That being said, I suppose I shouldnt be jumping the gun so to speak. I will learn the more brews I do. Thanks also "Yob" and "Hairy" for being so helpful as well. I really appreciate all you guys helping out and offering advice. I'll be honest, I don't have much of a clue as to what Im doing. Afterall, this next brew will only be my 3rd. But, Im also stoked with my first Pale Ale so could be worse I suppose. [lol] As for doing "hop additions", I really wouldnt know where to start with that. With the whole timing, be it 20 mins, 15 mins, 10 mins etc is that counting backwards? And is that when boiling your brew in a big pot on a stove? Ive only done the brew in plastic fermemter. Sorry, if this is confusing, but Im obviously very novice with most of the brewing techniques. I bought the can of Thomas Coopers IPA yesterday. I could only find one shop in Perth that had it in stock. The lady there said that I should be doing at least 5 brews before starting to experiment with other things. The Moteuka hops can only be ordered over east and to make things easier I just decided to grab some cascade hops from the brew shop yesterday. Its just the 15g tea bag type that gets thrown in the FV. But I decided today that I didnt think 15g will be enough. Obviously I don't know but Ive decided to just have a crack and see how it turns out. So I also picked up 25g Centennial hop pellets today and will put them in hop bag along with the Cascade. Not sure how it will turn out but I suppose the only way Im going to learn is by trying. I still aim to do the Moteuka Slam IPA, will aim to order the Moteuka hops after I put down this next brew tomorrow. This is the recipe Im planning: 21 litres 1.7kg Thomas Coopers IPA 1kg Light Dry Malt 500g Dextrose 15g Cascade Hops 25g Centennial Hop Pellets (Dry Hopped) How does all that sound to you guys? Will be sure to let you all know how it goes and what the result is after few weeks. Thanks again for all the help guys, you dudes are champs!!!! [cool] Btw Hairy, would love some more advice on how to do those hop additions for future reference if its not too much of a pain mate? Cheers guys!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Meh. I started experimenting on my 2nd brew [lol]. That's the great thing about home brewing - there are no rules. I'll try and explain hop additions as best I can after getting home from night shift... Basically those times are from the end of the boil. So, say you boiled a wort for 30 mins, with those hop additions as stated above, you would add them at 20 mins left, 15 mins left, 10 mins left etc. If doing hop additions like this to a kit, don't boil the kit. You will need to mix up a wort though, a general guide is 100g light dry malt per litre of water. So, for example if you have a 6 litre boil, you'd put 6 litres of water in your pot with 600g of LDM, dissolve it all and bring it to the boil. And then go about the additions as required. I'll leave it at that for now because I can sense if I type anything else, it won't make any sense.[lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Hey Anthony' date=' thanks heaps for the advice dude. Totally understand where you're coming from mate. I guess I have been quite eager to just jump in head first. Being a newby, Im quite excited about trying different things and seeing the end results. That being said, I suppose I shouldnt be jumping the gun so to speak. I will learn the more brews I do. Thanks also "Yob" and "Hairy" for being so helpful as well. I really appreciate all you guys helping out and offering advice. I'll be honest, I don't have much of a clue as to what Im doing. Afterall, this next brew will only be my 3rd. But, Im also stoked with my first Pale Ale so could be worse I suppose. [lol'] As for doing "hop additions", I really wouldnt know where to start with that. With the whole timing, be it 20 mins, 15 mins, 10 mins etc is that counting backwards? And is that when boiling your brew in a big pot on a stove? Ive only done the brew in plastic fermemter. Sorry, if this is confusing, but Im obviously very novice with most of the brewing techniques. I bought the can of Thomas Coopers IPA yesterday. I could only find one shop in Perth that had it in stock. The lady there said that I should be doing at least 5 brews before starting to experiment with other things. The Moteuka hops can only be ordered over east and to make things easier I just decided to grab some cascade hops from the brew shop yesterday. Its just the 15g tea bag type that gets thrown in the FV. But I decided today that I didnt think 15g will be enough. Obviously I don't know but Ive decided to just have a crack and see how it turns out. So I also picked up 25g Centennial hop pellets today and will put them in hop bag along with the Cascade. Not sure how it will turn out but I suppose the only way Im going to learn is by trying. I still aim to do the Moteuka Slam IPA, will aim to order the Moteuka hops after I put down this next brew tomorrow. This is the recipe Im planning: 21 litres 1.7kg Thomas Coopers IPA 1kg Light Dry Malt 500g Dextrose 15g Cascade Hops 25g Centennial Hop Pellets (Dry Hopped) How does all that sound to you guys? Will be sure to let you all know how it goes and what the result is after few weeks. Thanks again for all the help guys, you dudes are champs!!!! [cool] Btw Hairy, would love some more advice on how to do those hop additions for future reference if its not too much of a pain mate? Cheers guys!!!! All good David. I probably got a bit carried away seeing as you are new [biggrin] Your recipe looks fine. I like both Cascade and Centennial [love] Otto is right on the money and if you want to run through your procedure when you get around to doing it then just let us know. In the meantime, do a bit of reading/research on brewing. "How to Brew" by John Palmer is a great reference book and an older version is available online (link below): How to Brew - John Palmer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidK20 Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Hey dudes. Thanks again, your advice has helped me a huge amount already. Regarding boiling in a pot, I will probably have to go out and get a proper pot just for brewing. And I will have to get my wife's permission, I know that the thought of mixing up the brew in our kitchen will cause a few concerns [lol] Basically my plan was to mix the LDM, Dextrose and the IPA kit in 2 litres of boiling water straight in the FV. After mixed was going to top up to 21 litres and then add the hops. The Cascade will be steeped for 10mins in boiling water prior to throwing in. And I could possibly throw the Centennial hop pellets in the boiled mix for 5mins before topping up? That was my plan anyways.haha Do you guys see any problems with that? Thanks again [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Hi again David. Hey dudes. Thanks again' date=' your advice has helped me a huge amount already. Regarding boiling in a pot, I will probably have to go out and get a proper pot just for brewing. And I will have to get my wife's permission, I know that the thought of mixing up the brew in our kitchen will cause a few concerns [lol'] Basically my plan was to mix the LDM, Dextrose and the IPA kit in 2 litres of boiling water straight in the FV. After mixed was going to top up to 21 litres and then add the hops. The Cascade will be steeped for 10mins in boiling water prior to throwing in. And I could possibly throw the Centennial hop pellets in the boiled mix for 5mins before topping up? That was my plan anyways.haha Do you guys see any problems with that? Thanks again [biggrin] Your method is pretty good David. [happy] Just with the 2 hop additions, my advice for the Cascade would be to allow it to steep in boiling water for 15-20mins (leave the pellets in the muslin sachet). With the Centennial hops, wait 5 days after primary fermentation has started, and (as a guide) when your fermenter airlock stops bubbling, unscrew the lid & throw the Centennial hops (again still left in the muslin sachet) into the FV & rescrew on the lid & allow a further 7 days to pass, then begin taking your Specific Gravity readings. The 'Hop Tea' & 'Dry Hop' methods in conjunction with one another, are a simple and effective way of adding hop flavour & aroma to your pre-hopped kit tin brews. Good luck with the brew, & don't forget to tell us how it turns out. [biggrin] Anthony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Ignore the airlock. Airlocks bubbling don't indicate anything except an airlock bubbling. Unless you have one of the newer FVs that don't even have an airlock in which case it matters not. Either way, just add the Centennial hops at day 4 or day 5, whichever you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilboBaggins Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Can I just take the opportunity to mention that I drank one of my APAs with Motueka in it yesterday and it was drooooooool. [happy] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Hm.. I might have to get a hold of some of this Motueka since everyone keeps raving about it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidK20 Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Hm.. I might have to get a hold of some of this Motueka since everyone keeps raving about it!! yeah mate, i want to get hold of some moteuka as well. wish they had it available in western australia. but all good, will order some from over east and give it a shot on next month or 2 hopefully. Also, I started the next brew last night. I mixed the LDM in 2 litres boiling water then mixed in the dextrose. Then added the Thomas Coopers IPA can. I had the Cascade hops in pot on stove, 500ml boiling water and steeping for 15-20mins while mixing the other ingredients. Topped up the FV to 21 litres using ice cold water, normal tap water to get temp of 26 degrees. Then added the cascade hops, and added yeast and gave it a mix. Since then, it was at 24 degrees this morning but have got it to 20 degrees. The packet says to keep between 21-27 degrees but Ive heard its better to keep around the 20 degree mark so will try to keep it around that temp? After 4 days I will add 25g centennial hops as dry hop. Hoping this turns out well. the cascade hops had a great aroma when putting into FV. Btw, OG was 1050 exactly but being newby, I forgot to take hydro reading before pitching yeast. So hopefully that hasnt altered things too much? Will keep you all up to date but anything you think I should be doing, feel free to let us know. Cheers!!!!! -Dave [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Yeah keep it at 20C if you can. I've never brewed the IPA kit but it sounds like it should turn out well. That OG sounds about right, if you took it pretty soon after pitching the yeast it shouldn't alter it, the yeast take a while to kick in and start chomping the sugars. But yeah, sounds alright, just leave it alone, keep at 20C and do your Centennial dry hop on day four. Probably take an SG reading at day 10 and 11 and bottle on day 14 if those readings are stable. [biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidK20 Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 thanks for the advice and help mate!! yeah, i took the reading straight after pitching the yeast. the temp is staying at 19-20 degrees at the moment. will dry hop the centennial after 4 days. should i be putting the centennial in a hop boiling bag and dropping into fv or just throw in the pellets individually? Anthony, i know you said to keep it in the muslin sachet? Is that inside the packet? I havent used the pellets before, they are in the packet in the fridge at the moment. will be sure to keep you guys updated!! cheers!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Hm.. I might have to get a hold of some of this Motueka since everyone keeps raving about it!! yeah mate, i want to get hold of some moteuka as well. wish they had it available in western australia. but all good, will order some from over east and give it a shot on next month or 2 hopefully. Also, I started the next brew last night. I mixed the LDM in 2 litres boiling water then mixed in the dextrose. Then added the Thomas Coopers IPA can. I had the Cascade hops in pot on stove, 500ml boiling water and steeping for 15-20mins while mixing the other ingredients. Topped up the FV to 21 litres using ice cold water, normal tap water to get temp of 26 degrees. Then added the cascade hops, and added yeast and gave it a mix. Since then, it was at 24 degrees this morning but have got it to 20 degrees. The packet says to keep between 21-27 degrees but Ive heard its better to keep around the 20 degree mark so will try to keep it around that temp? After 4 days I will add 25g centennial hops as dry hop. Hoping this turns out well. the cascade hops had a great aroma when putting into FV. Btw, OG was 1050 exactly but being newby, I forgot to take hydro reading before pitching yeast. So hopefully that hasnt altered things too much? Will keep you all up to date but anything you think I should be doing, feel free to let us know. Cheers!!!!! -Dave [biggrin] http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=homebrew+kit&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=beer+hops&_sacat=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 thanks for the advice and help mate!! yeah' date=' i took the reading straight after pitching the yeast. the temp is staying at 19-20 degrees at the moment. will dry hop the centennial after 4 days. should i be putting the centennial in a hop boiling bag and dropping into fv or just throw in the pellets individually? Anthony, i know you said to keep it in the muslin sachet? Is that inside the packet? I havent used the pellets before, they are in the packet in the fridge at the moment. will be sure to keep you guys updated!! cheers!!!![/quote'] Muslin sachet, does that mean it is a hop 'tea bag'? I have never used them before; are they stored in a sanitised package of some sort? If not I would be concerned with just dropping them in the brew. If you have a hop boiling bag then boil that in water for 15 minutes, then add the hops and drop it in the FV. Some people throw the hops in loose so you can do that if you like. I like to constrain them; just my personal preference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidK20 Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 I used the Cascade hop tea bag. Wasn't pellets, was the flowers in a little fabric type bag. Had it in boiling water for 15-20 mins and added to FV. The Centennial hops are pellets. But Im guessing when I open up the packet that they will be just the pellets and Im assuming I just add them to hop boiling bag and add to FV as dry hop in couple more days. (Been fermenting for 2 days so far) With boiling hop bag for 15 mins, is that just for sanitising? Or do you mean boil the Centennial hops in boiling bag for 15mins before adding to FV? Sorry dude, I get confused pretty easily.haha [biggrin] Cheers champ!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 Just boil the bag separately to sanitise it. No need to boil or sanitise the hops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidK20 Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 Cool man, thanks heaps for that. Im planning to do that tomorrow night, would have been 4 days by tomorrow. This temp control has been alot harder this time for some reason. The weather in Perth seems to be but up and down so struggled to have stable temp. Its been in the 18-24 degree mark the last 3 days. Its mainly been stable at 20 degrees when i have it in laundry sink with ice bottles around it but then after a while drops to 18 so i take the FV out of the sink so it doesnt drop any further than 18. Then it can creep up to 24 so back into the sink where it brings it back to 20 and then slowly goes to 18 again so the cycle continues.haha [biggrin] Hopefully doesnt make too much difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 Cool man' date=' thanks heaps for that. Im planning to do that tomorrow night, would have been 4 days by tomorrow. This temp control has been alot harder this time for some reason. The weather in Perth seems to be but up and down so struggled to have stable temp. Its been in the 18-24 degree mark the last 3 days. Its mainly been stable at 20 degrees when i have it in laundry sink with ice bottles around it but then after a while drops to 18 so i take the FV out of the sink so it doesnt drop any further than 18. Then it can creep up to 24 so back into the sink where it brings it back to 20 and then slowly goes to 18 again so the cycle continues.haha [biggrin'] Hopefully doesnt make too much difference? i do the same temp control as you Dave and i just left it in the tub and it didnt drop below 18c...it seems to take alot to alter the temp lower...if it seems to be dropping maybe just take out the bottles and leave it in cold water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Von Blotto Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 Yeah I would say you're better off removing the frozen bottles than the FV. Every time you move it you're agitating it. The fermentation process produces its own heat, and ale yeast can go to about 15-16C, so it doesn't really matter if it drops below 18 a bit. Obviously a stable temp is more ideal, but I know it's a pain in the arse trying to do that with a tub of water and ice bottles. You almost have to stay with it around the clock [lol] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidK20 Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Hey Nedg, thanks mate. Have started trying that, just taking the bottles out and leaving it in the water. Also, thanks Kelsey, didn't realise moving the FV agitated it. I just assumed after dry hopping having another week in the FV would settle it. Another Newby moment.haha [lol] Yeah dude, you're right. Its a real pain in the arse trying to keep stable temp with water and ice bottles. I check on it a couple times a night. I already have 3 young kids, its like I have another newborn.haha Im gonna dry hop the Centennial tonight. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Cheers guys!!!!!- Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Hi David, the IPA kit is pretty full on, especially with some hop additions. I dont think the temp range and variation is going to do much harm, although stability is definately disirable. Consider an STC 1000 and brew fridge if you can. i think the most important thing with the IPA kit is time. Leave in the bottle for at least a month mate, but longer will make a big diff[biggrin] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Hey Nedg' date=' thanks mate. Have started trying that, just taking the bottles out and leaving it in the water. Also, thanks Kelsey, didn't realise moving the FV agitated it. I just assumed after dry hopping having another week in the FV would settle it. Another Newby moment.haha [lol'] Yeah dude, you're right. Its a real pain in the arse trying to keep stable temp with water and ice bottles. I check on it a couple times a night. I already have 3 young kids, its like I have another newborn.haha Im gonna dry hop the Centennial tonight. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Cheers guys!!!!!- Dave haha i just put bottles iced in in the mornig ang chamge at nite......stays around 18 and thats what will do me for now til i buy STC1000....bloody hops, all sorts of stuff.......i just LOVE being lead astray lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.