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James Squire Golden Ale


Clinster

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This reminds of something I've read before?!?!?! Oh yes..It was the thread Christopher was quoting [biggrin] ...Deja Vu all over again:

 

I was thinking the exact same thing but couldn't think of what the thread was. That thread was the reason that I didn't quit brewing.

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I usually drink JSGA on tap at my pub, when I first tried it I didn't really like it compared to the Amber, but I tried it again after I brewed my Centenarillo Ale (and after they took Amber off tap), and for some reason I enjoyed it a lot more. Maybe because I recognised the hops in it. [lol]

 

But certainly one I think I'll give a go at brewing when it starts getting warmer.

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I've always wondered who the hell Dr. Smurto is?[annoyed] While we're at it. Who the hell is James Squire?[annoyed] [annoyed] Neither one of these dude are from around here![annoyed] [alien] [biggrin]

James Squire was a convict & brewer and the Malt Shovel Brewery named their beers after him. The convicts appear to be the good guys in Australian history [wink]

 

James Squire - Wikipedia

 

Dr Smurto* is a homebrewer and regular contributor to Australian brew forums. He is yet to have a Wikipedia page [innocent]

 

* He actually has a lot of knowledge and is willing to share it.

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I'll be giving this one a go soon too' date=' just as soon as my stout is done. I've noticed that it's quite similar to the actual sparkling ale recipe though and these are quite different beers so ... how's it work?[/quote']

 

(just wanted to bump this question)

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DrSmurto's Golden Ale is now a little different to the one listed above.

 

Below is a link to the recipe at AHB (kit version at the bottom of the page):

 

DrSmurto's Golden Ale

 

The current recipe uses wheat malt instead of light malt and also includes some caramalt grains.

 

I would run with that one if you have the ingredients.

 

Otherwise, to answer your original question, the difference was the addition of dex in the Sparkling Ale recipe which makes it stronger and the JSGA clone has Amarillo hop additions.

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Okie dokie, let's see ...

 

Thomas Cooper's Sparkling Ale can ... \u2713

Coopers wheat malt extract can ... \u2713

15g Amarillo @ 15, 5 and dry hopped ... \u2713 (15g each time, right? Not three lots of 5 making 15 in total?)

US05 yeast ... \u2713

250g Caramalt ... wait, what's this? Grain?

 

If for some reason I really had to make this I'd use the following steps, which I've done before in other brews:

1. I don't know anything about grain so in this case I'll just feed that to the birds

2. Bring 2 litres of water to the boil and add hops so that the first lot is in there boiling for 15 minutes and the second for 5

3. Add that to the fermenter with the cans of Coopers stuff

4. Fill to ... um ... 21-23 litres I suppose and dry-pitch yeast

5. Be patient

6. Dry-hop the last bit of hops about a week in

7. Be patient again

 

I suck at steps 5 and 7, but this is on par with the most complicated (I know, it's simple) brews I've done to date.

 

I have also seen talk of people boiling the liquid malt and hops together. I don't have a very big pot (thinking of buying a ~6L one soon, but current one is very small) and I've heard people saying "just add 8L of water..." so yeah, I can't do that but I might be able to do a smaller amount? Is there some kind of golden ratio? Also, do you add it at the start and bring it to the boil or add it at the same time as the hops or what?

 

Last up - the caramalt. First up, will it be fine without it? Would I need to add some dry malt as a substitute? If I do take it this far, it sounds like something I'd need to steep and so I guess I'd need a grain bag and a thermometer and I'd have to sparge it and ... wtf does all this mean anyway? And does this then leave you with the solution that you add your hops and malt to or do you do that separately?

 

Lots of questions in there sorry - I hope one of you can help me out with it all [smile]

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Just a couple of points:

 

1. The recipe states it is for 20 litres so fill to 20 litres.

 

2. You don't need a big pot for a hop boil. Just add 2 litres of water and around 200g of malt. Bring to boil, add the hops and start the timing schedule.

 

3. If you don't want to use the grains then just skip it. If you do then heat around 1-2 litres of water in a pot to around 65-70 degrees. If you don't have a thermometer then bring 2/3 of the water to boil, turn off the heat and then add 1/3 tap water. Add the cracked grains, cover with a lid and leave for 30 minutes. Then strain into the FV; don't worry about sparging.

 

4. If you decide not to use the grains then you don't have to replace it with malt. The grains will give flavour & colour but very little fermentable sugar.

 

5. Be patient [rightful]

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Once you have done it you will realise how easy it is. Don't stress out about it and enjoy it. You do get more enjoyment out of making beer with grains & hops rather than just tipping malt & sugar in a bucket and mixing with water. Plus you will have to try really, really hard to stuff it up.

 

One thing I forgot to mention was boiling the grain liquid. To be sanitary it would be best to strain the grain liquid into another pot after steeping and then boil this for 15 minutes.

 

I usually use this liquid as part of the hop boil since I would be boiling that for 15 minutes anyway.

 

But then there have also been occasions when I have just tipped the grain liquid into the FV without boiling and without problems [bandit]

 

If you are looking at getting a bigger pot then get one bigger than 6 litres. Big W have 19 litre stock pots for around $20. These are perfect for when you move up to extract brewing or partials and you are doing bigger boils.

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Interesting - I want to try the recipe Dr Smurto put up at AussieHomebrewer.

 

That recipe mentions Caramalt. Is that easy to get - brewshop?

Where does it sit in the process? How is it treated?

 

Does it become part of the boil? or is just added to the fermenter?

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Caramalt is a type of light crystal grain and is readily available. If you can't get Caramalt then get any light/pale crystal.

 

As for the process, refer to point 3 in the post #61 above (and additional comments in post #63).

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Once you have done it you will realise how easy it is. Don't stress out about it and enjoy it. You do get more enjoyment out of making beer with grains & hops rather than just tipping malt & sugar in a bucket and mixing with water. Plus you will have to try really, really hard to stuff it up.

 

+1 Hairy. I'm enjoying the fruits of my labour - the recent recipe of the month Hop Gobbler, my first attempt at using hops and grain as supplements to the can and kilo. Whilst it was by no means a complicated process, I just followed the recipe AND adhered to PB2's Brewing Triangle and the end result blew away any previous brews I'd made. I tried really hard to stuff it up and I get called 'passion fingers' a lot..........

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Caramalt is a type of light crystal grain and is readily available. If you can't get Caramalt then get any light/pale crystal.

 

As for the process, refer to point 3 in the post #61 above (and additional comments in post #63).

 

You see, being a noob, I thought Crystal was some sort of, well, crystal. hehe. Thanks. all makes sense now.

 

In terms of getting a grain [and caramalt doesn't seem to be at my local brewshop] wouldthis be an alternative? Simpson Crystal Pale.

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Hi,

Just put this in to the fermenter last night, with my only concern that I did not strain the hops from the wort. Can any one enlighten me on what the outcome of this may or may not be? Am I on the right track presuming because I am dry hopping later that this should not matter, or will this brew be hopped off its lips. Thanks

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Ah yeah you won't get any more flavour out of them, they have to be boiled to get flavour and since you're obviously not gonna be boiling it during fermentation it will be fine.

 

I normally leave my ales in the fermenter for 2 weeks from pitching yeast until bottling. About a week to ferment and another week to let the yeast clean up a bit, produces a cleaner and clearer beer.

 

Cheers,

Kelsey

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Most on here will recommend not using finnings and just leaving another few days to a week.

 

If you give the fermenter a slap it will make particles in suspension drop out. you can actually see bits drop straight away!

 

Cold conditioning also helps. If you have a fridge for that.

 

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Finings is a plus for me. I Gelatine all the time and CC and still it makes a difference. However, I go through some beer too so waiting that extra time for me, I really can't do.

All finnings do is speed up the process that temperature and time provide anyway.

 

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Thanks again for putting the mind at ease guys, have seen the benefits in all my brews to leaving them for 14 days in FV, that should get most floaties to the bottom. This seems to be going along nicely right now, my brew fridge smells amazing. Thanks to the good doctor for sharing this recipe.

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